Step 3: Attaching Materials To The Bike

Now that you have your bike ready and your materials on hand, it is time to construct it all. 

             Before Attaching the Materials:
1. Fill up the air tank with air. Over half a tank is recommended.
2. Make sure that your portable air tank is attached to a piece of 1/2 inch thick hose. The length of the hose is up to you.

             Steps To Attaching The Materials:
1. If you don't want to scratch your luggage rack on your bike, place a towel down.
2. Set your air tank on top of the luggage rack.
3. Take your bungee cord or strap and wrap it around the air tank and the frame of the bike. (Be sure to wrap it around a secure spot on your bike frame)!
4. Take your other bungee cord or strap and wrap it around a different spot on the bike frame and the air tank. (Attaching any other cords/straps for extra support is recommended but optional).
5. Take your hose running from the air tank and strap it on the frame of the bike using (duct tape) until it reaches the handlebars on the bike. 
6. Try to place the blow gun attachment at a comfortable position on the handlebar. Strap it down with duct tape. 
7. Attach the blow gun attachment at the end of the hose to the hose from the air horn.
8. Position the horn on the handlebar. This is where the hose clamp may come in handy. Luckily this bike has a cup holder to position the horn on so a hose clamp is unnecessary. 
J-Ri3 years ago
Cool project!

But I'm afraid I'm gonna have to jump on the safety bandwagon here, but I'll jump off pretty quick.

You say the tank is old. When compressed air is cooled, the humidity in the air condenses and pools up in the bottom of the tank. The tank is probably fairly rusty on the inside, especially where it's welded together. Assuming the tank is about 8" diameter, you have roughly 50 square inches in the welded-on ends of the tank. Assuming a modest 100 PSI (you didn't say what pressure you fill it to, or I missed that part), that's 5000 pounds pressing against it. IF the weld were to break simultaneously all the way around, and someone got in the way, they would be hurt, probably severely. It's unlikely, but I like to play it safe... when there is no fun lost in doing so :)

I DON'T suggest doing the following (it's probably considered dangerous or something..., I want no liability here):
What I do to pressure test an old tank is duct tape the pressure relief valve so it doesn't open at the pressure it should. Somewhere on the tank it will have a maximum pressure and burst pressure stamped into the metal. I fill the tank to 20-30 PSI below the burst pressure (or as high as my air compressor goes, depending what the rating is) AFTER placing it in a steel box. I fill it while monitoring a second pressure gauge outside the steel box. If it holds up, I use the tank for another year. I had one break once, and it put a good sized dent in the side of the 1/8" thick stainless steel tool box in the bed of my truck. But it was also about 14" in diameter and burst somewhere around 140 PSI, so a lot more force.