This thing is simply a gigantic ipod boombox......just way doper!  I wanted to fully build a blasting boombox for my garage and here it is.  The enclosure is made of 3/4" mdf and then I used some rattle can truck bed liner to paint it.  Yup, truck bed liner.  It came out so cool.  All the wire work would be a waste if you couldn't see it so I added a plexiglass cut-out on top and mounted the controls and buttons to it.  Also, it has a DC jack for charging and a 3.5mm audio jack to accept any audio source.  The amp has the ability to take a mic input as well so you can possibly plug in a guitar or a microphone if you feel like it.  Might be pretty awesome to plug in a mic and amp up your didgeridoo too!

Material needed:

-MDF 3/4" x whatever you want.
-plexiglass (I used some thin stuff from home depot)
-Wood Glue
-sand paper (I bought a multi grit kit from wallyworld)
-various little wood screws that you can scrounge up
-speakers (my sub is a pyle 8" and the mids/tweets are some boss 6 1/2" components.  Both found on amazon for a STEAL)
-amp (also found on amazon which was normally 280 bucks that I scored for 70!)
-momentary push button switches if need be (I got mine from ebay on the cheap)
-good quality wire (I had a spool of 18awg black and got the 18awg red and 12awg red from home depot)
-1/8" heat shrink (whatever color you choose)
-zip ties
-truck bed liner spray paint (I found mine at home depot)
-primer spray paint

Alright....lets do this! 

Step 1: Get the electronics

I bought a Pyle PT1100 from amazon.  Its a 1000w beast.  Pyle makes their stuff very plain jane so its perfect for ripping apart.  The components inside are just like if I were to buy some diy amp kit but way cheaper.  The transformer would've cost me like 45 bucks alone.  The sub is a dual voice coil 4 ohm 8" pyle blue wave.  Mids and tweets are a component set from boss, so it comes with the crossovers too.  These are "good" speakers from a lower quality brands.  Any type you use will sound good when you good quality wire with good quality solder joints.  The sky is the limit on the components...I chose these due to the fact this just a garage blaster not a center piece in my home.
<p>Should you not separate the mids and highs so they don't share the same airspace as the bass? Otherwise the pressure from the woofer will make the cones of the mid-drivers dance if you turn it up.</p>
<p>so i am brand new at this diy audio, so is there a way to do it without &quot;exploding&quot; the amp?i have a 750watt amp (i think) and an extra car deck (this way it would be bluetooth as well). is there a way to have a chargeable one? and how would i make it be able to plug into a wall?</p>
Looks awesome! How much did you spend on this project?
I know this is an old forum but your box is top notch! It might be a stupid question but the push buttons on plexi what do they do I'd love to build one.
<p>All the buttons do exactly as the they did before on the amp. I really just basically added an 'extension' cord to 'em, I guess you could say.</p><p>Thanks for the comment. I was truly happy with the way it came out. </p><p>A year after having it and blasting it, to the point of hearing it 9 houses down, i did develop a short or something in it. It still works. Its just that every now and then it gets kinda fuzzy sounding and the fix is a slap to the side of it and all is well. Even my 7 year old knows the drill...gets fuzzy...smack it. Lolz</p>
I've sourced out all the parts i need, but i need to know how much wire you used haha if you used a whole spool, wire could easily be the most expensive part!
Lol...i wish I could give you a good idea, but I have NO clue on the footage!!! I work at a industrial wiring/mod shop and i scored my wire from there. <br><br>The best way to determine footage is to figure out your longest run andthen start adding it all up if wire is gonna be tight. I personally would buy a few small spools instead of a big spool so that you can return anything you dont use or buy it as need be. The only down fall to small spools is the slinky effect. Due to the wire sitting on a spool for a while it starts to take its shape and then you have to straighten it. The best way to straighten coiled wire is to grip it...apply pressure with your thumb/thumb nail to the back of the coil and stroke it. Seems tedious but you WILL get straight wiring that way.
I know this is an old forum but your box is top notch! It might be a stupid question but the push buttons on plexi what do they do I'd love to build one.
thanks for the tip! one other thing, i notice you have crossovers for the mid as well as the tweets, but none for the sub?
<p>sick set up. looking at doing something like this for camping running on 12v any tips?</p>
Now that is an ultimate speaker great job!!
<p>Figured we needed this when i went camping with friends this weekend. <br>Wondering how would i make it run off a rechargeable battery. And what calculation id have to make.</p>
That looks incredibly sweet. However, have you thought about making internal enclosures to match the speakers (in particular, the sub). The sound difference is likely to blow you away.
<p>He should have made some enclosures for the smaller speakers so the sub can use the rest of the area, how bigger the area for the sub how better. </p>
<p>Ehhh... question, shouldn't the ports be mounted the other way?... but nice build very clear wiring nice :) </p>
hello i want to put some leds to my boombox and they have to be syncd with the sound. how am i doing?
<p>I don't know if you still bother since it's 8 months ago when you posted this comment but get yourself some disco lights who react on bass, you should be able to get those at a store near your house, if not search the Internet you should open it up and use the mainboard of it to hook it up to your led's with some converters to let your leds run of the output voltage of the disco lights </p>
Do you have kik or something? Can you help me, with project like this?
Awesome write-up! I'll definitely be jumping into this one head first. Quick question, you have a DC jack for charging up top. Does the amp hold a charge? I assumed it had to be plugged in to a 110 outlet.
Nice wiring. Just an idea to spice it up and possibly look a bit more clean is to sleeve the cable bundle
This &quot;box&quot; is a thing of beauty. The workmanship is outstaning.
Thanks buddy....once I get my wife's crap off my workbench, ive got an inside the house one I've been cooking up
For folks with less electrical skill, that want a loud boom box, just mount the entire assembled amp (an old 1970's stereo receiver), inside a speaker enclosure. <br> <br>For the solder friendly, relocate the pots for volume, balance and tone, to completely hide the receiver inside the boombox case.
If i have a 600 watt subwoofer and to 250 watt tweeters(which is 1100 watts) do i need a 1000 watt amp or 2000 watt amp?
Typically the total watts on an amp is split between the channels....simple as that. If you have a 1000 watt 4channel amp each channel will be about 250 watts. Peak that is. You dont, for the most part, run an amp at full power....so peak wattage is kinda bullshit. RMS is the real deal and is what youre actually getting/paying for. The equation is,from what i remember, .7xpeak=rms. Soooooooooooo .7xmy 1100 watt amp=770rms. 770/2=385. My bottom shelf, in a plastic bottle, amp 'should' provide you with about 385 watts of decent dubstep enjoyment. <br> <br>
Thanks for the equation! Now, I can finally get somewhere.
Not necessarily, all you need is to add is the minimum recommended amplifier power.
you can make a video? would like to hear how it sounds.
nice !!! i want one of those but i have to little monney so ... :(<br>
any other cheaper ams that you could suggest, i really love the project but i live in ireland and the equivlent amp will cost me about 5 times as much!
Any amp will do. Car audio amps would be an excellent choice! You would just need to feed it the right power.
I have damaged the solder points on another project. Could you tell me how to repair those?
Scratch the varnish off the associated trace as best you can and then bend your terminating wire at a 90 degree angle, then surface solder to the exposed trace. Difficult, yes. Doable, yes. <br><br>Google, lifted solder pad repair or something similar and u should have examples galore.<br><br>Don't hesitate to ask me for additional help....
Oh yeah and by the way, I am dealing with surface mount components. I am not having problems with this instructable ( haven't enough knowledge of diy audio yet), so is there any more information that you can give me?
You have to be more specific....sorry man
I might have hit the wrong button on the post comment thing so this might be a repeat. I am replacing smd 0603 LEDs onto an xbox 360 RF module(power button). I was wondering how the LED would work with the wire connected to the copper trace considering the LED has to sit on it's side.
I would say who cares....just as long as its connected
OK. Thanks for your help.<br>
Thanks, this saved me a little money.
Dang man, I thought I was the king of wiring, but you have me beat. I really like this, now I can make the boombox of my dreams. (dual 8&quot; woofers [one each side], 3&quot; midrange [one each side], and triple 2&quot; tweeters [meaning three each side], for those of you wondering)
I fully wanna see it!!
Me too, it'll be a while. I have a few projects with higher priority.
Thanks guys...This amp came out very quiet too. As in, noise with no audio. The amp is plenty powerful for this size enclosure. I'm kinda scared to blast it at full volume cuz it seems like it would blow the friggin lid off! If anyone wants help building one of these, just lemme know....
I can't imagine how loud this gets, considering my 120watt speakers hurt to listen to at full volume.
Most speaker systems hurt to listen to at full volume. It's really a question of too much high frequency noise being emitted. That said, these large drivers should deliver plenty of loud, pleasing sound, while the tweeters SHOULD be tuned to prevent that annoying painful tinny noise. I don't know if he actually went ahead and did that....
It doesn't hurt because of the pitch, it's just super loud.
120 watts is not &quot;super loud&quot; while maintaining a properly balanced sound output. (not dissing your system, 120 watts is plenty for most applications; and can be plenty loud, at the expense of accurate sound.) <br><br>I'm sitting in the middle of a 505 watt logitech system, which isn't painful to the ears until turned up well past 400. This is because the drivers used in the system have a good surface area and are capable of reproducing sound at these power levels without of any problems.<br><br>The thing is: most systems are designed to have a good balanced frequency output within the normal listening range. Maximum volume is beyond that, and the speakers in your system cannot displace enough air to reproduce the lower frequencies as well, thus the volume begins to only effect high frequencies, which in consequence, hurts your ears.
Oh no, go ahead and diss my system. I got it at Big-lots for $25!!!
Oh...I did buy a set of some bomb computer speakers to initially do this. I returned multiple systems due to the fact that they were just plain jenkee! Fake speakers in some. It seems like the mobile speakers are just flat out built better than alot of &quot;home&quot; speakers. Thats why I went this route.
The harshness of the tweeters are maintained by the crossovers. <br><br>Of course, the box should have been bigger and the plexi should have been smaller, but it does sound damn good until you try to crank it to the point of the glass flexing. <br><br>My next one will be a living room model with the sub fully enclosed in the bottom. Amp and all electronics stacked in a plexi box with the mids and tweets stacked on top of that. Should look and sound even better. I wanna try and &quot;bring back&quot; the home stereo system. It seems like its gone away.....

About This Instructable


322 favorites


Bio: I void warranties....
More by SDgeek: The ULTIMATE diy boombox!
Add instructable to: