This thing is simply a gigantic ipod boombox......just way doper! I wanted to fully build a blasting boombox for my garage and here it is. The enclosure is made of 3/4" mdf and then I used some rattle can truck bed liner to paint it. Yup, truck bed liner. It came out so cool. All the wire work would be a waste if you couldn't see it so I added a plexiglass cut-out on top and mounted the controls and buttons to it. Also, it has a DC jack for charging and a 3.5mm audio jack to accept any audio source. The amp has the ability to take a mic input as well so you can possibly plug in a guitar or a microphone if you feel like it. Might be pretty awesome to plug in a mic and amp up your didgeridoo too!
Material needed:
-MDF 3/4" x whatever you want.
-plexiglass (I used some thin stuff from home depot)
-Wood Glue
-sand paper (I bought a multi grit kit from wallyworld)
-various little wood screws that you can scrounge up
-speakers (my sub is a pyle 8" and the mids/tweets are some boss 6 1/2" components. Both found on amazon for a STEAL)
-amp (also found on amazon which was normally 280 bucks that I scored for 70!)
-momentary push button switches if need be (I got mine from ebay on the cheap)
-good quality wire (I had a spool of 18awg black and got the 18awg red and 12awg red from home depot)
-1/8" heat shrink (whatever color you choose)
-solder
-zip ties
-truck bed liner spray paint (I found mine at home depot)
-primer spray paint
Alright....lets do this!
Material needed:
-MDF 3/4" x whatever you want.
-plexiglass (I used some thin stuff from home depot)
-Wood Glue
-sand paper (I bought a multi grit kit from wallyworld)
-various little wood screws that you can scrounge up
-speakers (my sub is a pyle 8" and the mids/tweets are some boss 6 1/2" components. Both found on amazon for a STEAL)
-amp (also found on amazon which was normally 280 bucks that I scored for 70!)
-momentary push button switches if need be (I got mine from ebay on the cheap)
-good quality wire (I had a spool of 18awg black and got the 18awg red and 12awg red from home depot)
-1/8" heat shrink (whatever color you choose)
-solder
-zip ties
-truck bed liner spray paint (I found mine at home depot)
-primer spray paint
Alright....lets do this!
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I bought a Pyle PT1100 from amazon. Its a 1000w beast. Pyle makes their stuff very plain jane so its perfect for ripping apart. The components inside are just like if I were to buy some diy amp kit but way cheaper. The transformer would've cost me like 45 bucks alone. The sub is a dual voice coil 4 ohm 8" pyle blue wave. Mids and tweets are a component set from boss, so it comes with the crossovers too. These are "good" speakers from a lower quality brands. Any type you use will sound good when you good quality wire with good quality solder joints. The sky is the limit on the components...I chose these due to the fact this just a garage blaster not a center piece in my home.
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The best way to determine footage is to figure out your longest run andthen start adding it all up if wire is gonna be tight. I personally would buy a few small spools instead of a big spool so that you can return anything you dont use or buy it as need be. The only down fall to small spools is the slinky effect. Due to the wire sitting on a spool for a while it starts to take its shape and then you have to straighten it. The best way to straighten coiled wire is to grip it...apply pressure with your thumb/thumb nail to the back of the coil and stroke it. Seems tedious but you WILL get straight wiring that way.
For the solder friendly, relocate the pots for volume, balance and tone, to completely hide the receiver inside the boombox case.
Google, lifted solder pad repair or something similar and u should have examples galore.
Don't hesitate to ask me for additional help....
I'm sitting in the middle of a 505 watt logitech system, which isn't painful to the ears until turned up well past 400. This is because the drivers used in the system have a good surface area and are capable of reproducing sound at these power levels without of any problems.
The thing is: most systems are designed to have a good balanced frequency output within the normal listening range. Maximum volume is beyond that, and the speakers in your system cannot displace enough air to reproduce the lower frequencies as well, thus the volume begins to only effect high frequencies, which in consequence, hurts your ears.
Of course, the box should have been bigger and the plexi should have been smaller, but it does sound damn good until you try to crank it to the point of the glass flexing.
My next one will be a living room model with the sub fully enclosed in the bottom. Amp and all electronics stacked in a plexi box with the mids and tweets stacked on top of that. Should look and sound even better. I wanna try and "bring back" the home stereo system. It seems like its gone away.....