Introduction: The Wall (wall Mount Your Game Consoles / Monitors / Devices)


It's minimalistic, takes up less space, and aesthetically-pleasing, at least to my eye.

- No cables ran behind the wall.
- All the components held up by right angle corner braces or custom brackets sprayed with Plasti-Dip so the components stayed put.
- The monitor on the left is for the Consoles/TV. I use all 3 for my PC's eyefinity setup.
- Can route the AV to another room of the house. Perfect for gaming or watching Blu-ray videos while keeping the consoles on the wall where they are. The wireless controllers are within range
- I use a Logitech Harmony remote (they use dual IR transmitters) so the IR works no matter what angle.
- With exception to the Xbox 360 or Wii, you can see and have access to all display panels and buttons.
- My receiver does have adequate venting on all sides and the heat fins allow heat to move vertically.
-Lastly, Mr. Magnetic Green Guy has always been with receiver for years and never had a problem with his magnets.
-YMMV & proceed at your own risk . I don't take responsibility for any damage that may occur to you or your equipment.

Step 1: The Things You'll Need

Most of the materials can be purchased at a major hardware store, such as Home Depot / Lowes / Ace Hardware

1 - 4ft x 2ft x 0.75in plywood (consoles/devices)

1- 6ft x 1ft x 0.75in common board (monitors)

2 – 2.5in corner braces (xbox 360)

4 – 1.5in corner braces (wii / cable box)

2 – 1in corner braces (ps3)

2 – 5in corner braces (audio receiver)

1 – 3/8in x 72in x 1/16in thick, flat punched metal

40 - #12 x 3/4in wood screws

40 – 1/4in flat washers

5 – 5ft, 1in diameter or larger corrugated conduit tubing

1 - 4 or 5 input HDMI switch

6 - 6ft HDMI cables (you may also need an DVI-HDMI cable if your monitor is not HDMI equipped)

6 – 10 ft Toslink cables (if your receiver isn't HDMI equipped)

6 – 10 ft CAT-5e ethernet cables (if you know how to make them yourself, then you can get a cleaner organization

1 – can of Minwax stain wood prep

1 – can of Minwax Stain + Polyurethane

1 – Spray can of Plasti-Dip (used to coat the supporting brackets with rubber-like coating)

1 – Spray can of color of choice to color the conduit tubing.

1 – Roll of velcro straps

1 - Vise

1 – Hammer

1 - Power drill

1 – Level

1 - Studfinder

1- Pencil

1- China Marker / thin chalk that can easily be erased

1 – Tape measure

2 – surge protectors or UPS battery backup with enough outlets for all your devices


Optional

1 – Rocketfish 2-way HDMI splitter

1 – HDMI/CAT5e|6 extender

1 – 3-way Toslink optical switch if your receiver isn't HDMI equipped

1 – ethernet switch

2 – 3-way monitor mounts

1 – tilt monitor mount for the center monitor

Step 2: Prep Monitor Board


  1. Place the 6ft common board on the wall and level accordingly. Use another person to help support the board and draw and outline of the board on the wall. Use a studfinder to mark the locations of the studs on the outline.

  2. Pre-drill / partly screw in 2 rows of 2in wood screws into the board /wall where the center of the studs are. Remove the board and save for staining later.

Step 3: Pre-stage Console Wall


  1. Lay the 4ft plywood on the ground and place all your components on it and arrange accordingly. Make sure you leave enough space between for venting and cabling. Take a picture of it so you can reference it later.

  2. It's a good idea to also make a drawing that includes all the measurements. Also note the depth of each device as it will be necessary to make the custom brackets later.

  3. Mark where you need to trim if necessary and use circular saw to do the trimming. Wipe off any excess saw dust.

Step 4: Stain the Boards & Spray Paint the Corrugated Tubing

 

  1. Sand to smooth the boards and edges if necessary.

  2. Use wood staining prep to prep the boards for staining. Follow the can's directions accordingly.

  3. When ready, stain the board along the grain using a foam brush. You will need to do at least 2 coats or else it won't look good.

  4. Spray paint the conduit tubing to a matching color.

Step 5: Mount the Monitor Board


  1. Mount the common board to the wall through those pre-drilled holes. Ensure the board is flushed with the wall. Double-check it's level. Don't overtighten the screws.

  2. (Optional) Mount your monitor wall mounts to the common board. Start with the center monitor mount. The extendable arm mounts for the the other monitors should be height adjustable to get it aligned with the center monitor. Follow those instructions accordingly.

Step 6: Stage the Console Wall


  1. When the board has dried, lean the plywood against the wall or table. Using your picture for reference and a level, try to arrange the each component on the board. Most of the devices have rubber feet already so they won't slide too much. Use the china marker to draw a light outline around each device.

  2. Examine the best placement of the 2 corner braces that will support the device, making sure it does not block access from buttons, cabling, critical vents. With the device against the board, slide in a corner braces to test its placement. Once satisfied, use the china marker to mark online where the corner bracket will be installed. Do this for each device.

  3. Also take note of where you will install a supplemental custom "U" bracket (1/16 flat punched metal) in the middle. These brackets will keep the device from sliding or toppling over on your head or your monitors. That would be very bad.

  4. Mount the plywood above the common board, leaving no space in between if you wish. Ensure that you are screwing those 2in wood screws into stud locations. My setup was sufficient with 4 screws.

Step 7: Prep the Corner Braces & Brackets

  1. Sand all the edges and corners of each brace to ensure smoothness. Might be a good idea to rough up the sides to for the plasti-dip to adhere. Wipe 'em clean.
  2. Following the directions on the can of Plasti-Dip, spray at least 2 coats on each corner brace.
  3. While they are drying, start making custom "U" brackets. Stick ¼ or ½ in of the 1/16 flatpunched metal into the vise. Hammer it down until you get nearly a 45-60 degree angle. This will serve as the front lip to the custom bracket and will prevent your device from sliding outward or toppling over. Remove from the vise and measure and mark the depth measurement of the the device on the metal. Mark another line where it leaves you one or two full circle cutout (this is the hole you will mount the bracket to the plywood. Trim the metal using a jigsaw. Stick the metal into the vise with the one or two holes and hammer down 90 degrees. You now should have a U-shaped custom bracket. Repeat this for each device. Most of them will need 2 brackets each.
  4. Sand the edges and round corners of the custom brackets until smooth. Lightly rough up the sides.
  5. Plasti-Dip these brackets.

Step 8: Mount the Corner Braces, U-brackets, and Devices


  1. Mount the braces onto the plywood along the device outlines you previously made. Use a level to make sure the brackets are level before screwing into the 2nd braces.

  2. Rest the device on the braces and ensure it looks good. Go ahead and slip in the U custom bracket in the bottom middle or side-middle to ensure its a snug fit. You may need to go back to vise and hammer it to get the angles right. If you rip the plasti-dip coating, just cover it up with a sharpie or plasti-dip it again.

  3. Remove the device and mount the bracket using #12 screws and washers (optional). Slip the device into the brackets. You may need to pull on the brackets to get the device in. Make sure you push it back in to ensure a snug fit with the device.

  4. Repeat for all the devices.

Step 9: Audio/Video Switching & Routing

  1. You will need an HDMI switch to switch AV between devices and into one of the monitors. Since there are 4 input devices in this setup, you will need a 4 input / 1 output HDMI switch. Your best bet would be to get and use a 4x2 true matrix HDMI 1.3a switch with remote.

  2. If you don't have a HDMI-equipped receiver but have toslink optical, you will need an toslink switch if you want digital sound from the devices.

  3. If you want to route the AV from your devices into another room such as the living room, you will need:

Step 10: Mount the Surge Protectors, Corrugated Conduit Tubing, and Run the Wires


1. Since most the devices don't have longer than 6ft power cables, you will have to mount the surge protectors either behind the monitor or under the desk like I did.
2. Mount the corrugated tubing between the devices using wide-head screws. Have the slit facing the wires for seamless entry.
3. Depending on the size of tubing you get, you may need to mount extra tubing since some of the cables, such as the power cables are pretty thick.
4. Run all necessary wires in the tubing. Secure cables outside the tubing using velcro straps. Test equipment and make any adjustments. You are done!

Comments

author
charlyoak made it!(author)2012-10-10

Have you considered building a leuvered vent cabinet with, like smoked glass cabinet doors to clean up the look?

author
Digitalrice made it!(author)2012-10-10

If the receiver wasn't in the setup, a vented cabinet wouldn't look too shabby. I think the receiver is too bulky and add significant depth. Especially on the sides such as the XBox and Wii where you need additional clearance for the drive tray and disc insertion.

It's been about a year since I did this setup and everything is still functional (even during summer) and minimalistic!

author
chazkoenig made it!(author)2012-01-03

i wish you luck if you ever decide to move

author
forumware made it!(author)2011-11-03

Sweet! I like it and will do something similar. Quick question, you use the L brackets and then attach the U bracket to it? Or you create a U bracket the width of each console and then mount that to the plywood, Can you help explain the U bracket,

Thanks

author
Digitalrice made it!(author)2011-11-03

Sure! I've added a picture to step 6 to better illustrate the placement of the corner braces and U brackets. You will need to measure the depth of the the console, then create the U bracket using this picture in step 7. Individually mount the braces and brackets to the plywood in Step 8

Braces & Brackets.jpgcustom bracket.jpgDSC00166.jpgDSC00158.JPG
author
Digitalrice made it!(author)2011-11-02

I'm happy to report that my instructable has been featured on Lifehacker.com main page as a featured workspace! I'm very surprised to see it there, thanks for choosing my project, Melanie Pinola!

http://lifehacker.com/5855559/the-wall+mounted-gaming-consoles-workspace?tag=featuredworkspace

author
siamonsez made it!(author)2011-10-27

Or how about putting the panel on some furring strips to bring it off the wall a bit so you could rout all the wires behind it, and hinge one side of it so you can still get at the back for routing purpose and in case you want to stash a couple devices back there.

author
JLancaster made it!(author)2011-10-26

Clever, serviceable and utilitarian! Great share.

author
Digitalrice made it!(author)2011-10-27

Thanks!

author
siamonsez made it!(author)2011-10-26

That's a pretty expansive command center ya got there, impressive.
I can understand sacrificing a couple of the displays because, that's the nature of the beast if you want to mount the devices flat on the wall, but why didn't you mount the ps3 the other way around so that you can just the disk into the slot without having to hold it for a moment until the slot drive sucks it in?

author
Digitalrice made it!(author)2011-10-26

The ps3 has exhaust vents on the back and the heat will go out through them in this orientation. Plus I like having the logo right side up.

author
siamonsez made it!(author)2011-10-27

That makes sense, I bet it gets pretty warm back there with all that equipment. It would be neat if The Wall could be turned into a case with a glass or lexan face so it could be fitted with an exhaust, fresh air intake, and dust filter; but leaving a way to have easy access to the drives and buttons and stuff.

author
Digitalrice made it!(author)2011-10-27

I guess you could make a lexan face cover with hinged doors for each device. That way you can have access to the drives and buttons.

I also forgot to say that you could also spray paint the cables leading to each component so it blends in with the board and appear "invisible" from a distance.

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