The Wall (wall mount your game consoles / monitors / devices) by Digitalrice
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It's minimalistic, takes up less space, and aesthetically-pleasing, at least to my eye.

- No cables ran behind the wall.
- All the components held up by right angle corner braces or custom brackets sprayed with Plasti-Dip so the components stayed put.
- The monitor on the left is for the Consoles/TV. I use all 3 for my PC's eyefinity setup.
- Can route the AV to another room of the house. Perfect for gaming or watching Blu-ray videos while keeping the consoles on the wall where they are. The wireless controllers are within range
- I use a Logitech Harmony remote (they use dual IR transmitters) so the IR works no matter what angle.
- With exception to the Xbox 360 or Wii, you can see and have access to all display panels and buttons.
- My receiver does have adequate venting on all sides and the heat fins allow heat to move vertically.
-Lastly, Mr. Magnetic Green Guy has always been with receiver for years and never had a problem with his magnets.
-YMMV & proceed at your own risk . I don't take responsibility for any damage that may occur to you or your equipment.
 
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Step 1: The things you'll need

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Most of the materials can be purchased at a major hardware store, such as Home Depot / Lowes / Ace Hardware

1 - 4ft x 2ft x 0.75in plywood (consoles/devices)

1- 6ft x 1ft x 0.75in common board (monitors)

2 – 2.5in corner braces (xbox 360)

4 – 1.5in corner braces (wii / cable box)

2 – 1in corner braces (ps3)

2 – 5in corner braces (audio receiver)

1 – 3/8in x 72in x 1/16in thick, flat punched metal

40 - #12 x 3/4in wood screws

40 – 1/4in flat washers

5 – 5ft, 1in diameter or larger corrugated conduit tubing

1 - 4 or 5 input HDMI switch

6 - 6ft HDMI cables (you may also need an DVI-HDMI cable if your monitor is not HDMI equipped)

6 – 10 ft Toslink cables (if your receiver isn't HDMI equipped)

6 – 10 ft CAT-5e ethernet cables (if you know how to make them yourself, then you can get a cleaner organization

1 – can of Minwax stain wood prep

1 – can of Minwax Stain + Polyurethane

1 – Spray can of Plasti-Dip (used to coat the supporting brackets with rubber-like coating)

1 – Spray can of color of choice to color the conduit tubing.

1 – Roll of velcro straps

1 - Vise

1 – Hammer

1 - Power drill

1 – Level

1 - Studfinder

1- Pencil

1- China Marker / thin chalk that can easily be erased

1 – Tape measure

2 – surge protectors or UPS battery backup with enough outlets for all your devices


Optional

1 – Rocketfish 2-way HDMI splitter

1 – HDMI/CAT5e|6 extender

1 – 3-way Toslink optical switch if your receiver isn't HDMI equipped

1 – ethernet switch

2 – 3-way monitor mounts

1 – tilt monitor mount for the center monitor

charlyoak says: Oct 10, 2012. 1:04 PM
Have you considered building a leuvered vent cabinet with, like smoked glass cabinet doors to clean up the look?
Digitalrice (author) says: Oct 10, 2012. 4:37 PM
If the receiver wasn't in the setup, a vented cabinet wouldn't look too shabby. I think the receiver is too bulky and add significant depth. Especially on the sides such as the XBox and Wii where you need additional clearance for the drive tray and disc insertion.

It's been about a year since I did this setup and everything is still functional (even during summer) and minimalistic!
chazkoenig says: Jan 3, 2012. 1:27 PM
i wish you luck if you ever decide to move
forumware says: Nov 3, 2011. 7:56 AM
Sweet! I like it and will do something similar. Quick question, you use the L brackets and then attach the U bracket to it? Or you create a U bracket the width of each console and then mount that to the plywood, Can you help explain the U bracket,

Thanks
Digitalrice (author) says: Nov 3, 2011. 9:05 AM
Sure! I've added a picture to step 6 to better illustrate the placement of the corner braces and U brackets. You will need to measure the depth of the the console, then create the U bracket using this picture in step 7. Individually mount the braces and brackets to the plywood in Step 8
Braces & Brackets.jpgcustom bracket.jpgDSC00166.jpgDSC00158.JPG
Digitalrice (author) says: Nov 2, 2011. 3:01 PM
I'm happy to report that my instructable has been featured on Lifehacker.com main page as a featured workspace! I'm very surprised to see it there, thanks for choosing my project, Melanie Pinola!

http://lifehacker.com/5855559/the-wall+mounted-gaming-consoles-workspace?tag=featuredworkspace
siamonsez says: Oct 27, 2011. 12:58 PM
Or how about putting the panel on some furring strips to bring it off the wall a bit so you could rout all the wires behind it, and hinge one side of it so you can still get at the back for routing purpose and in case you want to stash a couple devices back there.
JLancaster says: Oct 26, 2011. 8:34 PM
Clever, serviceable and utilitarian! Great share.
Digitalrice (author) says: Oct 27, 2011. 10:34 AM
Thanks!
siamonsez says: Oct 26, 2011. 8:27 PM
That's a pretty expansive command center ya got there, impressive.
I can understand sacrificing a couple of the displays because, that's the nature of the beast if you want to mount the devices flat on the wall, but why didn't you mount the ps3 the other way around so that you can just the disk into the slot without having to hold it for a moment until the slot drive sucks it in?
Digitalrice (author) says: Oct 26, 2011. 10:04 PM
The ps3 has exhaust vents on the back and the heat will go out through them in this orientation. Plus I like having the logo right side up.
siamonsez says: Oct 27, 2011. 9:37 AM
That makes sense, I bet it gets pretty warm back there with all that equipment. It would be neat if The Wall could be turned into a case with a glass or lexan face so it could be fitted with an exhaust, fresh air intake, and dust filter; but leaving a way to have easy access to the drives and buttons and stuff.
Digitalrice (author) says: Oct 27, 2011. 10:33 AM
I guess you could make a lexan face cover with hinged doors for each device. That way you can have access to the drives and buttons.

I also forgot to say that you could also spray paint the cables leading to each component so it blends in with the board and appear "invisible" from a distance.
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