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Step 2: Prepare the Q-tip Based Remover

This step is pretty simple-
1. Cut one end of the Q-tip off, leaving as much of the tube as possible.
2. Stick the cut end in the nozzle of the air duster.
2. Take a break.

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<p>Removing Our Moles, Warts, and Skin Tags Safely and Naturally. http://goo.gl/7p5sH7</p>
I removed my wart using some plant. I don't know what it is called in English but when you break open the stem yellow juice comes out. My wart was gone in a week.
<p>Maybe Aloe Vera?? </p>
If they are on your feet they are likely plantar's warts. You have to get them removed as soon as you see them. My sister had big surgery to get a 3 inch blob of them removed from her foot because she ignored them. When I found one on my foot, I cut it out myself with a pocket knife. Be sure to get all of the black core which goes wayyyy down into the skin.
<p>How far would you say they go into the skin? I am scared because I have had some on my right foot for years.... I scared myself by looking up images of Plantars warts.... And some of the images, half of the toe or foot layer is gone...</p>
I had 7 one both feet for a bout a year and i finally dremeled them off, it only bled for like an hour
dremel?!?!?!? isn't that over kill? I used a small utility knife.
more fun with the dremel
+1. I almost wish you were my doctor.
i ripped one out with my bare hands, lots of blood from my toe, i also stuck a screwdriver into on, causeing it to mutate, but it died, but i now have about 6 on my toe, because i ripped one out with nothing to treat it lol, bazuka does not work for me, it melts the skin on my affected area =/<br/>
<p>I have had a minor Plantars warts on my right foot, big toe and I have recently been doing this treatment... They have stopped growing but I notice that I get blisters sometimes after the treatments... Is that safe? Is it supposed to happen? Please Reply if you have an answer!</p>
Further tests: 1,1 difluoroethane went down to -65 F Chlorofluorocarbon went down to -67 F 1,1,1,2 Tetrafluoroethane went down to -68 F All in the same range. I tested my copper wire idea: the tissue paper acts like an insulator with air layers between multiple layers preventing the transfer of heat. I tried it without the paper and just sprayed the copper wire directly with the propellent and it cooled down well to at least -61 F. So skip the tissue on that one. I think this can be applied directly to a wart once it is cooled down with excellent control since no further spraying needs to go on during the application--just press the wire onto the skin target. I tried spraying the propellent directly on a freckle but the problem is control--the liquid comes out too fast and runs where you don't want it. The best method tried so far seems to be to cover the end of the straw with several layers of tissue to keep the outflow under control and applying the liquid directly to the skin. Note that the skin turns white with frost immediately, and dimples inward (shrinkage) until the skin warms again. Then it follows the normal process observed after liquid nitrogen application: turns pink, swells, and then local inflamation of tissue as the skin regenerates. I expect it will blister as well, if it continues to follow the pattern, followed by a scab which reveals new pink skin when it falls off. I also tried the concept of a reservoir filled with propellent with metal conducting the heat away, but it never got below -16 F. The use of brass instead of copper may account for some of the temperature limit, since brass is not as good a conductor, but the reservoir needed to be refilled constantly, so it was not a benefit in terms of ease of use. I think spraying directly on external copper wire was better in terms of cooling down. (See above.) But ultimately, I suspect that the liquid must be applied directly to the skin (with some tissue to control where it flows) to most effectively transfer heat away from the skin (which freezes the cells). Your original concept seems to be the best approach. Thank you for this very useful how-to-do (instructable)!
Has anyone pointed out that all these refrigerants that you are using are CFC's, and therefore highly damaging to the environment? They are mostly banned as propellants in forward thinking countries.
A) You're wrong.<br>B) Global warming is completely unrelated to CFCs. Pick up a book, FFS.
those are illegal nowadays, and are therefore not in anything.
These are propellants. The Chlorofluorocarbon I tested was the only CFC and that was an old can from before they banned such things. Most of these use 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethane which has no chlorine in it. I trust that if these propellants were bad for the environment, they would already have been banned. I believe the scientific community has finally come around to the realization that the real culprit in ozone depletion was the chlorine, not the fluorine. Chlorine is an extremely active element. Thanks for your comment.
LightSpeed1: I think you are forgetting the fact that it is neither fluorine nor chlorine (nor carbon for that matter) that is the culprit for the environment, but rather the CFC as a whole. Also you are missing the point about reactivity. It is not reactivity, but rather <em>lack thereof</em> that makes these chemicals dangerous. CFCs' lack of reactivity gives them a lifespan which can exceed 100 years in some cases. This gives them time to diffuse into the upper stratosphere. Here, the sun's ultraviolet radiation is strong enough to break off the chlorine atom, which on its own is a highly reactive free radical. This catalyzes the break up of ozone into oxygen by means of a variety of mechanisms, of which the simplest is:<br/><br/> Cl&middot; + O3 &#8594; ClO&middot; + O2<br/><br/> ClO&middot; + O3 &#8594; Cl&middot; + 2 O2 <br/><br/>Source: Wikipedia<br/>
I am not a chemist, but I appreciate what you are saying here. I have a chemist friend who says it is the Chlorine that is the culprit rather than the Flourine element since the Fl is too heavy to get high into the atmosphere, even by brownian motion and diffusion: heavier molecules tend to lay lower in the atmosphere. We certainly are in agreement about Cl. Doesn't O2 become O3 again rather easily through the action of lightning? Isn't there enough lightning to undo the damage of free radicals like Cl? Just wondering. Source: Trivial Knowledge in the back of my brain. ;-)
This is why I only use -anes like butane and propane for this, without any chloro- or fluoro- in them. Simply use butane (not so cold, longer application), propane (far colder), or nitrogen (superb but expensive and/or inconvenient to obtain). Butane will suffice, but you gotta be a man about it and be patient as well. Some warts will take multiple applications to remove. For the record, fluorine may not have been assessed as much a danger as chlorinated products to the environment, but is not entirely so far removed from chlorine. The real depletion of the ozone layer is hydrocarbons that bond to oxygen on contact, which is especially why Halon was banned as a fire-suppressant...but then again, Halon was a fluorinated-methane: Halon 1311 (bromotrifluoromethane, CBrF3), or Halon 1211 (bromochlorodifluoromethane, CF2ClBr). Just dropping an FYI, if this information is helpful.
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Great Instructable!<br><br>I actually just came here to get the information about the temp. of liquid nitrogen vs. CO2 vs. Dust Off, but ended up reading the Instructable anyways. I had a wart removed by the dermatologist with liquid N2 and it worked wonders! Great to see you've managed to find a way to do this for cheap.<br><br>To everyone: be careful! That stuff will freeze anything else just as well as it will freeze your wart!
Does anyone have experience whether canned air freezing applications work on actinic keratosis skin blems as well as on warts? I have a bunch of little bumps which the last time I saw a doctor, he told be were the keratosis things, that he in the past has burned off with liquid nitrogen.<br>I went to Walmart and bought a Dr Scholl's Freeze Away kit and tried it, but so far it hasn't worked too well.
she said &quot;k'nex&quot;. hah.
Elmers Glue 3 times a day. works every time
really would that really work do i have to moist it and cover it or just put glue and tape it up
Thermodynamic heat transfer rates for evaporating liquids range from about 10 X to 15 TIMES more than any heat transfer by any metal including gold. The "latent heat of evaporation" ( look it up in the physics books) is what you are using here NOT conduction. So whatever means you use to keep the liquid gas on the skin ( cotton,Kleenex etc.)so it can evaporate ON THE SKIN is the proper technique. Cutting a hole in a piece of tape so only the blemish is exposed to the liquid is a good way to keep the surronding skin from being damaged. ( duct tape will work...) Good info on this subject by the way....
omg i have a big wart would dat work?

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