The Word Clock - Arduino version

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Major updates - A much better enclosure for this clock has been designed - check out

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Wordclock-Grew-Up/

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Last month I wanted to build a special gift for my beautiful wife, Megan.  She has a teaching background in English, so what better present to make for her than a clock that uses language to tell the time for her desk at work. 

THE BACKGROUND

The original project that I created used a Microchip PIC microcontroller (16F877), because that's what I had in the garage.  Since I published it (http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Word-Clock/), quite a few people, including my next door neighbor (Thanks Mikal) have asked me why I didn't use an Arduino.  Having never used one, my automatic reaction to Mikal was 'Whats a one of those??"  So, I did some research and found out what an Arduino was.  Wow - they are so cool - so simple to develop for, and the barrier to entry is so low!.  I ordered one from eBay, and re-designed the clock to use the Arduino Duemilanove as the controller.

I have to admit right from the start that the Arduino is a beautifully engineered piece of work - While I am used to the PICs, because I have been playing with them for years, I do admit that there is a certain level of 'unreachability' for the beginner because of the requirement that specialised programmers be purchased or built.  The Arduino is equally powerful, comes on it's own little self contained board, and best of all is self programmable using a USB cable.

POWER

I have also listened to people who have constructed the original clock, and done away with the need to run off AC power. This clock simply uses a DC supply of 12 Volts, so you can run it off a wall wart, or off a set of batteries.  If you are using batteries, may I suggest 'D' cells, as they run forever, or a couple of 6V 'Lantern' batteries. 

REUSE YOUR ARDUINO FOR ANOTHER PROJECT

Finally, I have designed the controller board so that you can construct the project with your Arduino Duemilanove board just by plugging it in.  But, if you want to recover your Arduino for something else, you can install the optional support components along with an appropriately programmed ATMega168 and a handful of support components and your project will still operate.  People on eBay will sell you a ATMega168 with a boot loader that you can simply pop back into your Arduino board.

So, here it is - The word clock - constructed using an Arduino!

I am now able to sell all sorts of components, ranging from complete clocks, through to kits, through to individual modules and components.  Please visit my web site www.dougswordclock.com for further information.

Step 1: The new hardware - Controller board schematic

BETTER DRIVERS

My original clock used discrete transistors to drive the array of LEDs.  I have realised that while that approach works fine for a project that I have built for myself, it makes it more complex for others to build, so this new clock uses ULN2003A Driver ICs.  The ULN2003A contains a set of darlington transistors in a convenient DIP package, so there is MUCH less soldering to do. 

A NEW PCB

I have also re-designed the PCB to make construction much simpler - The Arduino controller simply plugs into the new PCB.  If you want, once you have constructed the clock, you can recover your Arduino board by purchasing an ATMega168 with a boot loader, and populate the PCB with just the new Microcontroller and a crystal.

IS THIS JUST A NEW SHIELD?

In the spirit of Arduino development, it would be fair to say that the controller board was a 24 output LED (or relay) driver shield.  It is just as happy to turn on a big set of 24, 12 volt relay coils as it is turning on a bank of LEDs.

Below you will find the new schematic diagram for the controller board as a PDF file. 

Note that you should look at step 4 to understand what resistors to use.  Don't simply use 360R and 36R with supply voltages above 10v.  You will need to use 680R and 270R instead.

Comments

[drj113]

Cool - Thats an awesome board.

The design has changed quite a bit since this initial project, and I also have a board that I have been selling via my web site for $25.

There are plenty in stock, and it is the same board that I use for my complete clock and kits :-) Here is the link to it:

http://www.dougswordclock.com/components.html

[ogarza]

For a version of this clock I need 5 drivers since it comes to 31 words, is there a kit with support for more display outputs than 24?

[drj113]

Hi,

The board that I have designed had 3 driver chips to provide 24 outputs - I do not have any other boards. You could make your own using Veroboard?

[contactscolored]

I am fairly new to Instructables so I will have to take a look at putting it together. I definitely want to get a video up. I'll let you know when I get either up. (I tried replying but the captcha thing seems messed up)

[RuiSantos]

This project is so awesome ! I'll do something like this probably in the next year...
thanks for sharing all the detailed informations about this

[gunnarain]

Is it possible to alter a PIC word clock to use the Arduino? I fancy playing with one, and have a love of word clocks since I built a version of your first one.

Also, loving your new website, got some really nice clocks on the go!

[drj113]

It certainly is- The Arduino clocks were an extension of the original PIC project. Have you seen the PIC version?

I had to use shift registers and driver chips to replace the output transistors, as the Arduino didn't have enough outputs to drive all of the words.

Doug

[JensonBut]

Probably much more harder to make this device thatn all the other ones from here....

[drj113]

Hi,
This is a complex project, but many, many people have successfully made it so far :-)

I do offer kits from my personal website if you like
www.dougswordclock.com

[Johnerich0809]

i am using arduino deumilanovae, the ATmega328 version, for bootloader i used Arduino IDE, Bootloader, Driver 1.0, I've noticed that one of the red led light is blinking while the other one is not lighting up.

[Johnerich0809]

Hello Doug,

I'm facing the same problems.. please help.!! Anyone knows how to troubleshoot.

I am using ATmega328.

[Johnerich0809]

1)the display board is continuing to blink as shown in the starter gif. and not showing any particular time.
2)the push buttons are not bringing about any changes in the blinking sequence,

[drj113]

That is almost certainly because of a software change. Can you tell me what software you are using and which board you have. The V2 boards used buttons that were connected between the button input and +5v, while the v3 boards used buttons that went between the input and gnd (using the internal pullups).

Lets double check what you have, and get you the correct software

[stalag]

hi doug,
could you tell me the size of the v3 board?

[drj113]

Yep - It is 75mm x 74mm

[stalag]

thanks for the info, i appreciate it.

[Piyush Bhatia]

Hello Doug,

Its an awesome project , i loved it ..moreover, it was an arduous task to even replicate it , with such a limited time in hand for submission at college(about 5 days) , i could just make the project as it is instructed here , and just copy paste the code to the arduino board,

i am facing certain problems:-
1)the display board is continuing to blink as shown in the starter gif. and not showing any particular time.
2)the push buttons are not bringing about any changes in the blinking sequence,

Kindly help,
i am using arduino deumilanovae, the ATmega328 version.
please excuse any naiveity on my part and kindly help sir :)

Hoping for an eager reply(on account of the little time i m left with ie just 2 days)
Piyush

Loved ur work :)

[drj113]

Wow. thanks for your email. i am in a party at the moment so i don't have access ti my pc. i will post a detailed message in about 5 hours.

Don't panic

[brad1213]

Hi

Could you post a clearer pdf of the V2 schematic. The schematic included in the assembly manual is too fuzzy to be able to read it.

Thanks

[drj113]

Sorry, I can't get at the rev2 schematic at the moment. Here is the rev3 schematic, it uses a RTC chip - that is the major difference between the rev 2 and the rev3 board.

[scat]

I dont see the RTC chip.

[drj113]

I have updated the last step to include a photo of the current v3 board. Hopefully that helps :-)

[LaRolle]

(removed by author or community request)

[drj113]

Hey, All of the comments you have made in the last 10 minutes on my projects are really negative. Whats up?

[stringstretcher]

This person joined jan 10, and has posted 2 comments, both here. your reactions are to be commended. Great Instructable and a wonderful project!

[drj113]

In an environment that is global, language can be really easily misinterpreted. I always work on the basis that people are asking questions because they have a desire to learn.

Thanks for your positive comment, and keep on doing wonderful things.

My DougsWordClock business would not be what it was today without an open, sharing, supportive community.

Doug

[diy_bloke]

Great description of the process. As I would not know where to find the blue toner, I always use the very known method of printing on glossy paper with a laserjet and then use a hot flat-iron (yeah the one used for ironing clothes) and heat transfer the toner from the glossy paper to the copper.
But you are right, it needs to be spotlessly clean

[diy_bloke]

The hydrochloric acid/hydroxy peroxide combo is really great. Have been using that for some time now, no pore expensive ammonium persulfate, no more FerriChloride stains

[drj113]

Actually, the word clock has changed quite a bit since this article.

Have a look at http://www.dougswordclock.com to see how it has expanded.

I can provide you with a plan for the current PCB, or if you like, I am happy to send you a kit for either a full clock, or just a controller.

Doug

[thegnome54]

Hey Doug,

Thanks for the awesome instructables! Your clocks are beautiful and I'm hoping to make one for myself as a 'jump into the deep end' of working with electronics.

If you'll excuse my naivety, are there alternatives to etching my own board? Would it be a terrible idea to just use a big breadboard? I'm having a bit of trouble isolating which components of this project are actually essential to the function of the clock.

Thanks again!

-Guillaume

[drj113]

I forgot to mention...

Breadboards are ok for testing projects, but for something that you want to keep they end up being unreliable over time. The little springy contacts inside them go soft.

You really want soldered connections for long term.

Doug

[drj113]

Hi,

Thanks for the wonderful response. I have had many people be encouraged enough to make a clock that I decided to sell kits for them.

While the kits are expensive to ship around the planet (there is 1.7kg of acrylic) in them, I do also sell just the controller board or even just the bare circuit board itself. Jump onto www.dougswordclock.com to see whats available.

[shaunc77]

Solved it. If anyone else runs across this kind of problem. The new Arduino IDE 1.0 doesn't recognise the .h file extension! I down loaded the 0023 version of the IDE and it compiled and uploaded perfectly!

[la-jetee]

Terrific design and lots of swift help from Doug. Thanks! I'm using blue flat-topped LEDS in my clock and have found that the differential light output from the diodes is critically dependent on the input voltage. The design document suggests a 9 volt input, but that has given me problems; some diodes light up and others don't. I have a laboratory power supply and in the five pictures below show the display with an 8 (first image), 9, 10, 11, and 12 volt (last image) supply. Somewhere just above 10 seems fine. Has anyone else come across this?

[LaRolle]

(removed by author or community request)

[drj113]

I am sorry that you believe that the project sux - Others believe it has some merit.

What will you make and show for us to see?

Doug

[girino2n]

Hi, cold you send me the LED layout?! Thanks ( fwpedrosa at gmail.com)

[drj113]

Yep - 12 Volts is really important - I will modify the instructable accordingly

The 9v was a reference to the original, which needed 9V AC, which after rectification acme out to about 12V DC.

I am sorry for the confusion.

[monty324]

did anyone else notice that it says arduino in the corner

[RVNInsurance]

This is pure genius! I'd love to get one for my wife for Christmas. But is there an option for a battery-operated model?