The Word Clock - Arduino version

Step 3 The hardware - Populate the controller board

Now that we have an etched, sized, drilled and cleaned PCB, we need to start mounting components.

POPULATE THE PARTS IN ORDER OF SIZE

I soldered all of the components, using the stencil layout as a reference.  I started by mounting the six jumpers that I needed to place because I used a single sided board.  Then I soldered the header pins and the IC sockets, Then the resistors, diodes and off board connectors.  Finally, I plugged in the Integrated Circuits and the Arduino Board, and that step was done.

Note there there was a small change with the final board version - the two resistors (R2 and R3) are actually mounted below where the photos show them, and jumpers are installed in the corresponding space.  Just follow the parts layout for the exact placement.

It was a very restful 30 minutes to do the soldering.   Make sure that you use some sort of fume extraction when you solder.  To many fumes can end up being bad for you.

Here are heaps of photos, showing the steps I used to populate the board.

Comments

[girino2n]

I finish my clock, excelent project. I just have doubt about the wire under arduino, but I found one picture with the correction.
Thanks for the instruction... it is success in my house.

[groszek]

Ha ...no worry ;p

[drj113]

Awesome!!! Well done!

Doug

[brainchildpro]

While following your scematic I set up my breadboard to run an array of single leds. I am using a full arduino but I cant seem to get the ULN2003A to work right. The leds will light up if I just attach them to the HCF4094 in the correct order but they just stay on when I attach them to the ULN2003A dimming only slightly. Have you ever run into an issue like this? I am new to the arduino and electronics in general so its probably my fault its not working.

[drj113]

One thing I can think of is that the wring for the LEDs when connected to the 4094s is backwards compared to that for the 2003's.

With the 4094s, to light a led when the output is high, you would need to connect the Anode (Long pin) to the 4094 output (via a resistor), and connect the Cathode (Short pin) to ground.  That way, when the output is high (+5v) the led will light.

With the 2003A chips, they are transistors that connect the output to ground when they are turned on - so they effectively invert the signal.  To use them the LED must be connected with the Anode to a positive voltage (in the case of the clock, +12v), and the cathode needs to be connected to the 2003A output.  When the 2003 is turned on, the output pin is connected internally to the ground pin(pin 8), turning on the LED.

It is important that pin 9 is left unconnected.

If it makes it easier, I am more than happy to send you a PCB for the latest version of the clock - it uses an ATMega168 CPU, and ULN280A chips to reduce the IC count. n It also has a Real Time clock onboard to improve the accuracy.

Let me know how you go.

Doug

[brainchildpro]

Pin 9 was my culprit. It now works the way it is supposed to. Thank you for your help. I would say your a genius but I think that would understate it :-)

[Arduino678]

Do you have any pictures of the back of the board (arduino duemilanove version)?

[drj113]

Sorry, I never thought that somebody would need photos of the soldering on the back of the board. What are you after? Can I help? The board has been re-designed to just use an ATMega168 chip, and not an arduino module. That makes it cheaper to build. If you like, you can see the new module at www.dougswordclock.com

[Arduino678]

I already have the arduino module and don't plan on using it for a while. I am going to make the duemilanove version (I already purchased parts for it). If you have any pictures of the arduino version that would be great if not I will base all of it off of the layout you have given. Thanks!

[drj113]

Thats cool - The only pictures I have are for the version that was on the Instructables article - The PCB is simple to make - let me know if you have any problems.

[Comhippy]

The big, blue part is an arduino mega, right?

[drj113]

It is actually an Arduino Dumealove

[lotusandy]

On step 3 you state "12Mhz Crystal if you are not using a module"
Should this not be 16Mhz?

Andy

[drj113]

Yes, you are right - I have updated the instructable.  Thanks for spotting that error!

[lotusandy]

Don't wish to sound like a picky ****** but in the BOM you list 4049, should be 4094.

Andy

[drj113]

You are not picky at all - thanks for spotting that error - I have just fixed it.
:-)