Well, It had to happen.
I first published my WordClock project in September 2009. It was a Microchip PIC based clock, using a PIC16F877A microprocessor. In the last year and a half, I have been constantly improving it, and have adapted it to the Arduino, and even designed an updated controller board for it.
Well, It got better. I have discovered how to cut Vinyl stencils, and have been experimenting with Perspex, so I thought it was time to share what I have been playing with.
The beauty of using cut vinyl as a stencil, is that you can create a clock that is up to 45cm x 45cm (or larger if you have the vinyl). My previous PCB based stencils were limited to 150mm x 150mm.
As with all of my clock designs, this is completely open. I encourage everybody to make one either using the details from this site. It is much simpler than it looks.
If you want, I can provide parts, complete kits, or even complete clocks from my web site at http://www.dougswordclock.com. :-)
This clock uses an updated Arduino controller PCB. It has a DS1302 RTC onboard, to ensure that the timing is accurate, and an automatic dimming function kicks in between 7pm, and 7am, so you can still sleep if the clock is installed in your bedroom.
It is powered from a 12V DC, 400mA power supply. I have considered battery power, but LED clocks don't run for very long on batteries, so that is not an ecologically sensible idea. My old clocks used to run from an AC source, but i moved to DC when I implemented the RTC chip.
I hope you enjoy building one of these clocks, and that it inspires your own projects.
My Epilog Challenge thoughts:
I have entered this project into the Epilog Challenge - The things I could do with a laser cutter.... wow.... I could cut intricate shapes that would allow me to morph this project into a full flowing - 3D - word clock, that has a clock face that has depth, real depth, with curves.... It could be a combination of shape and texture that I see with the Dali style melting clock (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Dali-Style-Melting-Clock/), and using a laser cutter, I could make the intricate baffles necessary to make that real as a word clock.
Megs will never see me again - I will have to simply live in my garage! :-)
I first published my WordClock project in September 2009. It was a Microchip PIC based clock, using a PIC16F877A microprocessor. In the last year and a half, I have been constantly improving it, and have adapted it to the Arduino, and even designed an updated controller board for it.
Well, It got better. I have discovered how to cut Vinyl stencils, and have been experimenting with Perspex, so I thought it was time to share what I have been playing with.
The beauty of using cut vinyl as a stencil, is that you can create a clock that is up to 45cm x 45cm (or larger if you have the vinyl). My previous PCB based stencils were limited to 150mm x 150mm.
As with all of my clock designs, this is completely open. I encourage everybody to make one either using the details from this site. It is much simpler than it looks.
This clock uses an updated Arduino controller PCB. It has a DS1302 RTC onboard, to ensure that the timing is accurate, and an automatic dimming function kicks in between 7pm, and 7am, so you can still sleep if the clock is installed in your bedroom.
It is powered from a 12V DC, 400mA power supply. I have considered battery power, but LED clocks don't run for very long on batteries, so that is not an ecologically sensible idea. My old clocks used to run from an AC source, but i moved to DC when I implemented the RTC chip.
I hope you enjoy building one of these clocks, and that it inspires your own projects.
My Epilog Challenge thoughts:
I have entered this project into the Epilog Challenge - The things I could do with a laser cutter.... wow.... I could cut intricate shapes that would allow me to morph this project into a full flowing - 3D - word clock, that has a clock face that has depth, real depth, with curves.... It could be a combination of shape and texture that I see with the Dali style melting clock (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Dali-Style-Melting-Clock/), and using a laser cutter, I could make the intricate baffles necessary to make that real as a word clock.
Megs will never see me again - I will have to simply live in my garage! :-)
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Signing UpStep 1: Creating The Stencil
Start assembly by making the stencil. You can either get a stencil cut by a local sign writer to your own design, or use a pre-cut vinyl stencil from my web site.
I have always felt that the clock looks more majestic if there is a border around the letters (I normally use about a 30mm border), but you can use whatever size you would like.
Vinyl by itself is floppy, so it needs to be attached to a clear acrylic (Perspex) backing sheet to provide rigidity. Make sure that the acrylic sheet is the size you want the final clock to be.
Before you start, mix up a couple of drops of dish washing liquid with a cup of water, and load that into a spray bottle. We will use this to make applying the vinyl lots easier.
The vinyl stencil as supplied will typically be larger than required. This is so as to provide extra material for variations in face sizes. We need to cut the vinyl stencil to the final size of your acrylic sheet, allowing an extra 10mm allowance around the edges.
Lay the acrylic backing on top of the stencil , and mark out a cut line, then using a straight edge and a sharp hobby knife (or scalpel), cut the sheet to size.
Next, ensure that your working environment is clean – vacuum your table if necessary – or work inside the house, instead of the garage. Lock up your Golden Retriever dog and your cats. If you get small particles between the vinyl and the Perspex, you will have enormous trouble making the surface look flat.
Spend some time 'weeding' the stencil, by removing the letters that you don't want there on the final stencil. The removed letters will provide space for the light to shine through. Once you have removed all of the letters (being careful to leave the centres of letters such as 'A' and 'P' behind), apply some masking tape along each row so that when we remove the backing sheet, the centres of the letters stay in the correct spot on the stencil.
Remove the protective cover from the clear perspex, and lay the Perspex to one side, ready for covering.
Turn the vinyl sheet over so that the front is against your working surface, and remove the backing sheet from the vinyl stencil, being very careful to ensure that the vinyl does not stick to itself. Be very gentle so that you don't tear the vinyl.
Be gentle when you remove the backing to ensure that the bottoms of the letters are not stretched. You may find, for example, that the bottom of the letter R and W stays on the backing. Gently use a sharp instrument to detach them from the backing. This photo shows the base of an 'R' character being loosened. The base of the 'W' has to be loosened as well.
Spray the vinyl sheet with a liberal amount of the water/soap solution - Don't panic - we will be squeeging this out later - it simply allows us heaps of extra time and movement to get the vinyl applied easily. In fact it makes application Sooooooooooo easy.
DON'T DO THE APPLICATION DRY (Unless you are a professional sign writer) - YOU WILL GO QUITE MAD.
Lie the Perspex on the top of the vinyl at an angle, starting with the bottom edge – carefully align the edge so that it is straight, Hold the top of the vinyl sheet taunt (you can have an assistant help you), then, and using a folding, or rolling motion lay the sheet on the vinyl. The folding or rolling motion will help to ensure so that most of the air and soapy water is expelled.
(In the photo, I didn't use tension – I have subsequently determined that tension helps : )
Turn the Perspex over and make sure that the alignment of the stencil is where you want it. Don't worry if the stencil is in the wrong spot, because you used water and soap (you did - didn't you?) you have tons of time to get it right. Then, using a squeegee, credit card, or your hand, gently flatten the stencil out to remove the excess water / soap mix. Use some paper towel to clean and dry the stencil as you expel liquid. As you expel the liquid, you will notice that the stencil locks onto the acrylic sheet. We want this gluing action to happen. Do not rub the front hard, as you will damage the surface.
Then remove each of the tape strips - one at a time. Again - be gentle - use a tissue to blot up the excess water/soap mix as you go. If you find that a letter is staying attached to the masking tape, simply use a sharp tool to detach it.
Once you have expelled all of the water/soap mix, and things are looking very flat, marvel at your work, and leave it to adhere for an hour or so.
Cut the vinyl sheet to the final size on the perspex – I love the look of making the stencil 3 – 5mm smaller than the acrylic, allowing a small clear bit to frame the black vinyl. You may prefer to cut the vinyl even with the edge.
That completes the stencil assembly.
Enjoy looking at it, and then cover it with paper, attached with tape to ensure it doesn't get damaged and put it away somewhere safe where it won't get damaged.
I have always felt that the clock looks more majestic if there is a border around the letters (I normally use about a 30mm border), but you can use whatever size you would like.
Vinyl by itself is floppy, so it needs to be attached to a clear acrylic (Perspex) backing sheet to provide rigidity. Make sure that the acrylic sheet is the size you want the final clock to be.
Before you start, mix up a couple of drops of dish washing liquid with a cup of water, and load that into a spray bottle. We will use this to make applying the vinyl lots easier.
The vinyl stencil as supplied will typically be larger than required. This is so as to provide extra material for variations in face sizes. We need to cut the vinyl stencil to the final size of your acrylic sheet, allowing an extra 10mm allowance around the edges.
Lay the acrylic backing on top of the stencil , and mark out a cut line, then using a straight edge and a sharp hobby knife (or scalpel), cut the sheet to size.
Next, ensure that your working environment is clean – vacuum your table if necessary – or work inside the house, instead of the garage. Lock up your Golden Retriever dog and your cats. If you get small particles between the vinyl and the Perspex, you will have enormous trouble making the surface look flat.
Spend some time 'weeding' the stencil, by removing the letters that you don't want there on the final stencil. The removed letters will provide space for the light to shine through. Once you have removed all of the letters (being careful to leave the centres of letters such as 'A' and 'P' behind), apply some masking tape along each row so that when we remove the backing sheet, the centres of the letters stay in the correct spot on the stencil.
Remove the protective cover from the clear perspex, and lay the Perspex to one side, ready for covering.
Turn the vinyl sheet over so that the front is against your working surface, and remove the backing sheet from the vinyl stencil, being very careful to ensure that the vinyl does not stick to itself. Be very gentle so that you don't tear the vinyl.
Be gentle when you remove the backing to ensure that the bottoms of the letters are not stretched. You may find, for example, that the bottom of the letter R and W stays on the backing. Gently use a sharp instrument to detach them from the backing. This photo shows the base of an 'R' character being loosened. The base of the 'W' has to be loosened as well.
Spray the vinyl sheet with a liberal amount of the water/soap solution - Don't panic - we will be squeeging this out later - it simply allows us heaps of extra time and movement to get the vinyl applied easily. In fact it makes application Sooooooooooo easy.
DON'T DO THE APPLICATION DRY (Unless you are a professional sign writer) - YOU WILL GO QUITE MAD.
Lie the Perspex on the top of the vinyl at an angle, starting with the bottom edge – carefully align the edge so that it is straight, Hold the top of the vinyl sheet taunt (you can have an assistant help you), then, and using a folding, or rolling motion lay the sheet on the vinyl. The folding or rolling motion will help to ensure so that most of the air and soapy water is expelled.
(In the photo, I didn't use tension – I have subsequently determined that tension helps : )
Turn the Perspex over and make sure that the alignment of the stencil is where you want it. Don't worry if the stencil is in the wrong spot, because you used water and soap (you did - didn't you?) you have tons of time to get it right. Then, using a squeegee, credit card, or your hand, gently flatten the stencil out to remove the excess water / soap mix. Use some paper towel to clean and dry the stencil as you expel liquid. As you expel the liquid, you will notice that the stencil locks onto the acrylic sheet. We want this gluing action to happen. Do not rub the front hard, as you will damage the surface.
Then remove each of the tape strips - one at a time. Again - be gentle - use a tissue to blot up the excess water/soap mix as you go. If you find that a letter is staying attached to the masking tape, simply use a sharp tool to detach it.
Once you have expelled all of the water/soap mix, and things are looking very flat, marvel at your work, and leave it to adhere for an hour or so.
Cut the vinyl sheet to the final size on the perspex – I love the look of making the stencil 3 – 5mm smaller than the acrylic, allowing a small clear bit to frame the black vinyl. You may prefer to cut the vinyl even with the edge.
That completes the stencil assembly.
Enjoy looking at it, and then cover it with paper, attached with tape to ensure it doesn't get damaged and put it away somewhere safe where it won't get damaged.
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Any ideas what could be causing this? I've alredy looked for shorts and cannot find any. Thanks
Did you etch your own board, or did you make it some other way. Remember that the ground (Middle pin) of the voltage regulator must be connected.
All that happens is the regulator gets really hot and doesn't do anything, even if I input 9 volts it does the same thing.
Doug
Any idea on where I need to look or what is wrong?
Thanks for the help so far
try moving the chip to the middle socket (Leave the suspect socket position empty) and seeing if it still gets hot. if it does, then the device is faulty. if it doesn't, then one of your LED strips is shorted out.
Doug
thanks
Could you measure the power consumption? Important for an always on device.
This device is constructed using LED technology, and is not super energy efficient (Compared to a battery operated clock that does not emit light.
It draws between 120mA and 200mA at 12V, equating to approximately 1.4 Watts - 2.4 Watts depending on what word combination is lit.
Doug
It seems to be an issue with the atmega328 that I have hardwired to the board - I am yet to find out what the issue is though.
What I did to rectify/troubleshoot:
I took my standalone arduino board, and mapped the outputs PD3,PD4, PD5, PD6 and PD7 into the chip holder on the clocks PCB - eliminating the hardwired 328. By doing this the system started working - therefore proving there is a problem with my circuitboard/atmega set up. It lloks cool now!
Cheers Doug!
To sum everything up:
I've built the clock - looks great , and when powered up the self test works just fine - all light in sequence as expected. Once the test is compelte though, it flashes the 'Quarter' and then turns all the LEDs on and doesn't switch them off. I can't see anything in your PDE that would be causing this tough. Is it something you have seen before?
I'm really after something to look at next. I've tried two different '328 chips, both with the same issue. I don't believe it is the board or the 2803 arrays as these seem to be functioning ok.
I'm at a bit of a dead end now! I'll try and download V0018, I've tried it on 0020, as I wanted to check if it was the software version - but I'll make doubly certain with v0018.
Charlie
ps. Once I've finished this - it is going to look awesome! Great build!
I have the same issue however! The self test runs fine, but the leds then all light at once.
I can only put it down to one of two things though:
a) I have not connected a sperate power source to the DS1302
b) When programming the chip, I had an error to do with WProgram.h, so changed the reference in the ds1302.h & .cpp files to Ardunio.h. I don't know if this would have created issues.
Any help on the above wouold be greatly received.
Charlie
the fact that the self test is running suggests that you are seeing +5v on the output of the voltage regulator. The self test should turn each LED on in sequence.
There is no need for a separate power supply for the DS1302.
The code was originally written for Arduino IDE version 0018 - I can email you a version designed for version 1.
I build the controller based on the schematics and when I power it up, the self test runs but all the leds are lit and remain lit..
not sure if it's the code or the 4094 not shifting or what?.
the other question, 4094's get ground on pin 9, you don't show that, as well as ULN's i think also should get ground on pin 9. am I right?
thanks.
is there a way to get AM/PM added to the code??? thanks so much.
Amos
Does your chips have the ARduino boot loader installed?
Send me your postal address via email to doug@doughq.com, and I will send you a pre-programmed chip.
Doug
''Binary sketch size: 1018 bytes (of a 14336 byte maximum)
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51''
Port is correct, but which board i should select in the list? i think i tried all which have ''atmega168'' in the name :/ any suggestions?
Thanfuly, Tomas.
I do my best to make the PCB , solder all the components and my power led not illuminated !
I check at the output of the 78L05 , nothing ! I check again and again ....
For information i try without all the IC's
I'm a very , very sad man ... i'm so sad
Drj113 , again you're right ! I have two very small short circuit on my board.
I have my 5v at the output of the 7805 and the board working , my pulse led illuminate.
I have a problem with the compilation on Arduino , but when i change Wprogram.h by Arduino.h , all working !!
Your version use led rubans , but if i want to use Led's , what resitors for each Led's ?
I continue , i post my French version as soon is possible ...
Thanks again and again.
if you want to use the individual LEDs, remember that the board supplies +12V, so use the LEDs in series groups of three, and use a 150 ohm resistor
Doug
The first step is to remove all of the IC's and to disconnect the LED array, then provide power to just the controller board.
You should then be able to read +9 or +12V on the input to the regulator and +5V on the output of the regulator.
Make sure you are using a DC power supply and not an AC one, and that you are using the power input, not the battery backup input. Also make sure that the input Diode (1n4004) is connected the correct way round.
Doug
PS: sorry, but i cant add a reply to my msg, because of the captcha ****
Doug
thx for sharing this instructable.
I builded up my own, german, version now with a new PCB.
The clock is working, but the time isnt correct. It goes wrong like 1 minute every hour.
Do u got any solution do get the clock show the time correctly for longer?
I added 2 pics of my prototype.
bye
I just bought all the components (hard to find in my town!) and I'm ready to build the spanish version of the clock.
I wonder if this is the last version of the project, or if there are updated sketches and board layouts. In that case, could you please send it to me, I can't wait to start DIYing! :)
Promise to upload pics and stencil vectorials when finished!
Doug
But not my microcontroller is 40pin ATmega16, compared to your 28pin ATmega168..
Do you know if it would work if i customize the board to use my controller?
Also, i have only coded in C, and your attached code is in C++, do you know if my controller can even use this?
Thank you
There is no reason why the code can't be converted to straight C. It was originally written for the Arduino, which is a C++ environment.
DOug
So my question is, is there any advantage to this board compared to your previous version which look more basic and programmed in C
Im think is this more accurate on time, less power comsumption or something?
Doug