Step 6: Final Steps

The last steps we need to do, are to finish the connections to the controller board, and plug it into the display cable.

Then we need to attach the stencil in a way that we can remove it if we need to, and to install some diffuser to the back of the stencil (I originally used tissue paper - now I use a sheet of oven baking paper).  I used small blocks of Perspex glued to the stencil and attached with small screws through the side of the enclosure.  Start by using masking tape to ensure that the edge of the enclosure is not glued to the stencil.  Screw the four blocks onto the corners of the enclosure, apply some glue, and glue the enclosure to the stencil - Make sure that the enclosure is aligned so it is centralised on the stencil.  The attached photos will help you make sense of this.

After that, we need to add a socket for the power cable, and mount the buttons to allow us to set the time.

Then, we need to install the back onto the enclosure - again, I used small blocks of perspex and small screws, using the same technique that was used to glue the stencil..

That completes the clock - power it up, and you should see the display self test start up. 

Set the time, and enjoy it.


<p>I made this last year using your instructions. Had to make minor changes to the code due to differences in languages (mine is in Icelandic). However I've never been completely satisfied with it, because the LED's are facing straight forward and cause a bright dot in the middle of every word. I have been thinking about modifiying it but haven't gotten to it yet.</p>
After years I finally did it using your electronics! thanks!<br><br>instead a wall dc I bought a 220/12 for led strip and put inside. <br><br>when I started I used normal led as your old clock, I want to improve with diffuse led or strips as this one. Even if they are designed for 12v I can put without problem, right?<br><br>I had some problems with the sketch using an ATMega328, I needed to remove one line in the define (the one with your name, not affecting the pins). I also had a problem with the word nine, I soldered from pcb (probably it was my flat cable).<br><br>thank you so much ?!
I suppose that because of atmega328 reset doesn't work and also the blinking of the time, but clock seems to works normally.
Is it possible to use an atmega328? Does it need a change in coding to make it work? Can I use just a standard arduino uno with the atmega328? Thanks ~ Joe
Hi Joe, I used an atmega328.<br><br>using the file In the project on two different pc and an arduino uno, after installing the library, I got an error. <br> <br>I remove with &quot; &quot; a line in the define, is the one with the Doug name, and later I uploaded without problems.<br><br>the clock is working almost at all. not the reset e something wrong with the leds on pcb. but the words are ok. <br><br>finished today.<br><br>if you need the file ask me at uomodipalude@gmail.com
<p>Hi Doug - I am just finalising the controller module kit which is I bought from you probably four years ago! Is a 12V DC wallwart OK for the older kits as well? Also do the &quot;extra words&quot; available need to be programmed in? Guessing so but I can't find reference to this.<br>Cheers<br>Dave</p>
<p>Thanks to Doug for this awesome instructable and his assistance with all my queries :)</p>
<p>First of all thank you very much for this Instructable. Fantastic! Has inspired me to build my own.<br><br>I've got all the frame down, and been having a nightmare with the electronics.<br>After 2 or 3 board etchings and soldering I' ve finally got a board that works.<br>Along with trying numerous errors with the latest arduino software I finally made it work, and on an atmega168p chip aswell.<br><br>Although I am having a big problem now. The clock starts up and runs through its self check, although the words &quot;Five (Minute), Eight (Hour), Nine (Hour)&quot; do not light up when doing the check or when displaying the time. however they do light up when the self test flashes 3 times. <br><br>I know from the schematic they are all on the same chip, but the Ten (Hour) works fine.<br><br>I have changed chips both the 2803 and the 4094 also moved chips that i know were working from other slots. <br>I've circuit tested to make sure there are connections which there are.<br><br>At a total loss!? Any ideas?<br></p><p>Photo of back board all ready to go!<br>Ben</p>
<p>do anybody have coding part.</p><p>mail me to nitesh.natha@yahoo.com</p><p>thanks in advance</p>
Hi - I am happy to help - I will email you.<br><br>Doug
Hi, look' s really cool, Im building one myself and run into several problems. Has anybody try to use a DS3231 Ic for time keeping? I mean the DS1302 is good, but tends to drift.
<p>can I get some help with programming from anyone??</p>
<p>Cor what a lovely instructable and possibly my next project.</p><p>On previous projects I have used masking tape and then sprayed matt black for masks around sections in perspex. Once the paint is dry and the masking tape is removed this gives a very nice display mask.</p><p>Thank you for posting</p><p>D6</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I am interested in the Dutch version of the clock. </p><p>Stan already made one, and it looks very nice!</p><p>Do you know where he found the right facilities to get the stencil?</p><p>Thanks in advance!</p><p>Bas</p>
<p>Would it be possible to get the PCB in another format? CAD or gerber file?</p>
HI,<br><br>I sell kits for the controllers now - you can see them at <br><br>http://www.dougswordclocks.com/shop/wordclock-controller-module-preassembled/<br><br>Kindest regards,<br><br>Doug<br>
I have the same problem as DWhitlow Mentioned. A bunch of words light up and stay put. And the pulse LED doesn't blink or light up. Using an ATMEGA328 does it require a change of code?
<p>Hi. I am experiencing a similar issue. Except that my pulse light is working fine. Can anyone confirm whether or not this 168 code will run unmodified on the 368p chip? Thanks.</p>
<p>Hi vnk,</p><p>Did you solve this? Does it involve a change of code?</p>
<p>Hi, there seems to be a difference between the 26 way output pin assignments in the v3 construction manual and the schematic - could you tell me which is correct </p><p>please. (example: page 5 schematic shows pin 10 as the 'ELEVEN' output but the pin assignments on page 12 show pin 10 as 'ITIS' output).</p><p>Many thanks - P.S. Brilliant project can't wait to get mine up and running, have got as far as producing the pcb so far whilst sourcing the parts.</p>
<p>Hi Guys, is there an answer to this question that I have missed? I also need to know the answer. Thanks.</p>
Opps - sorry about that - The manual is correct - Pin 10 is the 'It is' output.<br><br>
<p>Thanks for the info and swift response. My clock is nearly done, but it remains to be seen whether or not I did the PCB soldering correctly... I looks like a small, lead meteorite hit the back of it! I have powered it up though, and both the LEDs work (the pulsing LED is very faint - is it supposed to be). Additionally, I didn't electrocuted, and my house didn't burn down - so those are also pluses.</p>
<p>This is my Italian version of Doug's word clock!!</p><p>Thank you Doug, this istructable was very interesting!</p>
WOW - That's beautiful :-)<br><br>Well done.
<p>You can get some nice diffuser sheets from scrapped flat panel monitors and televisions.</p>
I have found that white photocopying paper works beautifully
<p>Hi Doug,</p><p>In step 7 you are talking about files for Dutch language modifications. However I cannot find the link the download these files. Where can I get these files?</p>
<p>Hi Doug,</p><p>I am currently making a similar version of your wordclock and am trying to implement the individual LED's for the minutes. I see that you have each LED connected to an analog output pin. Is there anything other then a resistor between the pin and the LED. Also how do you control the brightness of these as all the other LED's are controlled by the PWM connected to the output enable on the darlington arrays.</p><p>many thanks in advanced.</p><p>Damian</p>
<p>Can you please explain how you implemented the minutes LED. I don&rsquo;t know how to connect them to the PCB.</p><p>http://www.dougswordclocks.com/wordclocks/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Black-DeskClock-916x1024.jpg</p>
<p>Hi Doug. Where can I buy the wordclock?</p>
<p>I'm trying out the project but have to do it with an arduino instead of the separate atmega chip as the ftdi connector is not available in my locality. Could you please tell me whether the connection of the reset switch to the ftdi is necessary? Or whether the reset pushbutton can be connected only to the Arduino. </p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>Just a quick question... What font are you using for the clock? I really like the simple design but I cannot put my finger on what font this is. </p><p>Very nice instructable! </p>
I use Levenim MT for most of my clocks, but the DeskClocks that are made from laser cut mirror are Terfens<br><br>Doug<br>
<p>Im confused about putting the program on the ATmega168 chip... I bought one from an electronics place with the rest of the parts and I'm assuming there is nothing on it. Your instructions above say that to program it you just need a FTDI USB-232 cable to upload the sketch, however in the comments below you state it first needs a bootloader on it... so do I need to buy something like: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9825 to put the bootloader on it and then a FTDI cable to put the code on top?</p>
<p>Hi, is the the time reset after a power outage??</p>
If you install a backup battery, the time is kept during a power outage.<br><br>All of the clocks and kits that I sell on my website (www.dougswordclocks.com) are setup to keep time during an outage.<br><br>Doug<br>
And how can I do that??
<p>You get a 3v battery, and connect it to the battery connector on the circuit board. Which clock did you build? Did you make a circuit board for it?</p>
<p>Hi, i am in the process of building one of these, we just etched the pcb and its going to get drilled someday soon. i noticed on your site you have a black clock with invisible words. how is that done?</p>
It's great that you are making the clock - it is hard work, but the result is amazing!<br><br>The 'invisible' words clock is made using an acrylic mirror - I use a product called 'Euromir' sheeting which is a colored transparent acrylic which has a mirror back.<br><br>I laser etch the words (in reverse) into the inside of the mirror, which removes the mirror layer - when that is mounted onto the clock, the unlit calls look dark, and barely show (if you look closely, you can see them), but as soon as the cell is illuminated it displays clearly.<br><br>I hope that description makes sense to you.<br><br>Doug<br>
<p>Thanks for your efforts! Give a link to my Russian version of these on the basis of MSP430G2452 and DS1302.</p><p>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESkQZudEWPo</p>
I'm running into a problem here. When I power up the pcb the leds lightup in sequence and then flash five times. The pulse led pulses twice, faintly but pulses every second. <br> <br>I can set the time but no matter how long I wait the time doesn't change... just stays there... <br> <br>Any idea on what I might be doing wrong? <br> <br>thank you all in advance
What is your input voltage and what is the voltage on the output of the rectifier?
The problem with mine was that I didn't have the backup power connected so the clock chip (DS1302) didn't get any power... Once I connected the battery Everything worked perfect... <br /> <br />12V Input and 5V as output from the rectifier.
<p>Hi I have the same problem. Which voltage did you connected to the backup power?</p>
the backup power is designed for between 3v and 5v.<br>
<p>I've tried everything and still doesn't works. Want else can it be?</p>
<p>When you say 'It still doesn't work', what do you mean? Does the power LED on the controller light up? Are you having problems with the battery backup? Some chineese rip offs of the DS1302 don't work correctly with battery backup.</p><p>Doug</p>
<p>The power LED lights up fine but the pulse LED pulses twice and the voltage regulator gets very hot</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I have a background in digital electronics, and am very interested in computers. I love things that blink, and am in awe of the physics ... More »
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