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Note: I do not know if this will work with the original iPad or the iPad 2.

Pros:
-Sturdy
-Secure
-All buttons still accessible
-Nice incline for watching videos and typing
-Easy to slide iPad in and out
-Relatively low piece count
-You can charge while the iPad is still in the stand

Cons:
-Front camera blocked/has k'nex in front of it
-Uses a lot of tan locks and rotational connectors (Y-clips)

The stand is very useful, and I recommend you build it if you have the pieces.

Speaking of pieces,

Piece Count: (May be slightly inaccurate.)

Blue Connectors ----- 23
White Rods ------------ 34 (or 35. See step 1)
Yellow Connectors -- 28
Green Rods ----------- 83
Red Connectors ----- 1
White Connectors --- 1
Orange Connectors - 6
Grey Rods -------------- 5
Tan Clips --------------- 23
Y - Clips ----------------- 12
Hinges ------------------- 4
Blue Rods -------------- 12
Blue Spacers ---------- 20
Grey Spacers ---------- 4
Blue Clips -------------- 7
Green Connectors --- 3


Step 1: The Frame - Pt. 1

This is the most basic part of the frame. Build it as it is in the picture, and take note of the white connector. It is necessary. 

And if you are lazy, the 'dimensions' are:
-6 yellow connectors on the top/bottom
-4 yellow connectors on each side
-6 blue connectors in each row, except for the row with the white connector.

If you don't connect the top right with a white connector, the pictures taken with the camera on the back will turn out like this.

If you do connect the top right with a white connector, the pictures taken with the camera on the back will turn out like this.

So, bad either way. That is the biggest con.

Step 2: The Base - Pt. 2

Picture 1 - Make two (2) of these.
Picture 2 - Place them here. Notice the location in relation to the white connector. Make sure they point the way they do in the picture.

Picture 3 - Make ten (10) of these. Notice the blue spacer. This is important.
Picture 4 - Place each of them where the boxes are. Make sure they go in the holes.
Picture 5 - Here they are in their correct spaces.
Picture 6 - A close up of the alignment. Make sure that the tan clips face forward, in the middle hole.
Picture 7 - Flip the base over. (Make sure nothing falls off!)
Picture 8 - Place the tan and blue clips on the base exactly as they are in the picture. (Note their direction)

Picture 9 - Next put blue spacers on all of those except for the boxed in ones.
Picture 10 - Build one (1) of each of these. (Only one of each!)
Picture 11 - Now place them like so. Note the direction of them.

Step 3: The Support

Picture 1 - Make two (2) of these.
Picture 2 - Attach them like so. 
Picture 3 - Another view of the attachment.
Picture 4 - Make this. Only one (1). Notice the upside-down tan clip, and the blue clip. Also, the black rods are the same as the grey ones, just stronger. 

Picture 5 - Attach that piece to the other hinged piece. The hinged pieces will angle out, and that's okay.

Picture 6 - Now attach the whole bottom to the top. The black rods will angle out, and that's okay too.
Picture 7 - Here's a close up of the connection. 
Picture 8 - Tighten the tan clips down.
Picture 9 - Here's a close up of the other connection.
Picture 10 - Do the same tightening process for it.

Step 4: ENJOY!

You're done. Enjoy your new stand!
Cool i would make one if i had an i pad but i only have a wii , 3ds , ps2 , ps1 , psp
Well I don't have any of those, so I can't help you there!
you could build a car stand
you could build a car stand
i like it. good job. nice and clean. it's a little redundant though, since there is that little magnetic cover that can fold up to be a stand... nice.
I actually have the magnetic cover, and it does work nicely. However the difference between this stand and the cover is: <br>1) the incline - this stand has a steeper incline, and can be better for certain tasks. <br>2) the accessibility - this stand allows access to all buttons (where the cover puts them in an bad position for usage)

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