Step 4: The Slides Outer Shape

To make the slides, i printed out all my drawings 1:1, and cut them out. Make sure you keep track of the numbers of them, it is very important that they are not mixed up. My drawing show the slide from the front, back, and from the face that are going to be the plane in witch it turns to switch between oval box and heart. I now glued (with waterbased woodglue) the pieces of paper to my blanks, so i could start shaping them. I only glued the paper drawing to one side, and i used for each piece the side that would be the front of the slide. This is a little tricky to explain, i hope you get where I'm heading. Remember to also consider how the lines in the wood will align when they are turned around. 

With the paper in place, i started cutting the pieces, first roughly on the bandsaw, then a little closer on the bandsaw again, but with more easy to handle pieces, and finally on the rotary flap sander. On the flap sander i sanded them down, until i just hit the paper. (remember, you still only have paper one one side of the wood). As you can see in the picture, i have a piece of plastic under my slide when I'm sanding it. This is to avoid scratches and smudge from the metal base it is lying on. 

When that was done, i had 8 almost identical pieces, except for the paper of course. 
To make sure the diagonal surface was very flat, and would fit its counterpart i set up a little jig, to sand them down to a nice flat line. It was really just a piece of sandpaper on a flat table, and a box with a 90 degree angle on top of the sandpaper. Then i just held the slide to the side of the box, and sanded the diagonal surface. 

Now i was able to glue on the rest of the drawings, because the slide had the final outer shape. I cannot stress enough that you need to keep track of the number if the slide! That was why i numbered them all in the first place. The last image is a little ahead, because as you can see, i already started working on the internal detailing. 
<p>please upload some more images of geometry construction.....</p>
<p>how many slides to be drilled for axial? And how much centimeters thick?</p>
<p>hello? flecks.... hopefully you get this comment and you please respond... im a 14 year old guy who is in wood shop working on your project (i showed it to my teacher) i alredy printed out all your steps and my teacher is on my ass now that i better finish it.... but i cant print out your blue-prints.... i tryed everything but none of my computers (incluiding the school distric) dont have your software..... hope fully you can message me ---&gt; <a href="mailto:linares.jose25@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow">linares.jose25@yahoo.com</a> and send me a word ducument of these blue prints....i really need them asp. </p>
<p>Hello to you too. </p><p>The drawings i have uploaded is simple .pdf files, i cannot convert those to a word document. You can open and print them from any pdf reader, for example adobe reader. Please do post a picture, when you finish the project!</p>
I see! Thank you, I am trying to find one to buy for my gf after not being able to make one that i was happy with. What do you think of this one? https://www.etsy.com/listing/157512555/illusionist-heart-locket-made-from-maple
It looks nice, more like the one in the movie. However i don't like the idea of cutting the picture in half, seperating the two persons. <br> <br>But i guess i just as well might have...
Hi, I really like your design I just don't understand one thing. How does the other side of the lid stay connected? The magnets can't be so strong to were it won't &quot;break&quot; off if you pull on it. Thank you in advanced, your a genius <br>
I'm not sure exactly which lid you are talking about.? The two lower lids are held ind place by magnets and the axle, and the front upper lid only by magnets, but so well that you can shake it around without it falling off. The back upper lid is glued in place. <br>Thanks for the kind words :)
I would love to get the files to 3d print this. The only change a would like would be a disk (not a ring) for the picture(s) to be attached to.
Nice work. This is a tricky project to get right. <br>I 3D printed mine and cast it in pewter. <br>I always wanted to get it lasercut from wood and layer it up. <br>This has inspired me to try that again, but to fit my design I need to find some 0.8mm wood.
0.8mm..? That's... Veneer? I am very interested in that design, can you reveal more? <br> <br>Did you 3D print in plastic or wax? Because i have considered printing mine, but i am not sure which material to print it in..
I had it printed in plastic (shapeways wsf), then I made a mould using heat resistant silicone, and cast it lead free pewter. <br>Wax is the standard material to use for investment casting. But that only gives one shot and destroys the wax piece in the process. I've never cast metal before so wanted it in plastic, that way I could clean it up and try multiple things with it. the model is on thingiverse if you want to take a look. <br>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28755
Very nice indeed. How did you manage to cast the holes? Aren't those quite difficult to get an impression of, even with the silicone? <br> <br>And are there any function that prevents the picture from tearing?
Wow, featured and frontpage same day as i published, thank you whoever is in charge of this! :)

About This Instructable




Bio: A 24 year old engineering student and amateur jeweler. I spend a lot of time shooting on the national team, and making stuff in my ... More »
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