*You shouldn't be a meanie and go rob people, blah blah blah..
(don't you hate it when people put those dumb disclaimers?!?)
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Signing UpStep 1: Gather your junk!
-a paperclip
-a gas torch
-a glass of cool water (important)
-a box of matches
-a pair of pliers
-a pair of wire cutters








































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I tried this and it never works for me :/
If I finally get the nice and tough blue-ish metal, then it's okay for the tip of the lockpick, but after that it goes from blue to yellow and then back to the original metal color. At the position of the yellow part, it's super flexible and bends with the smallest force applied to it.
So it actually gets a lot worse than it would be before trying to harden the metal.
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here. I think I need to heat up the whole lockpick instead of just the tip so that there is no 'part that wasn't heated enough' which makes it softer. Is that right?
And I'm doing this with a lighter which I modified to have a large flame.
Could this also be the problem? That it still isn't hot enough?
The paperclip turns red hot; just a little yellowish but not like Really bright.
I don't have a blowtorch; but I do have a gas furnace. Will that be ok to give a try? Or is there anything else I can use?
Are there also paperclips which just won't work? Because I'm thinking some work better than others when doing exactly the same.
PS: Great instructable!
Hope you can help me. Greetings,
Electorials
Here's an example of air tempering:
Heat A2 tool steel to 1750 degrees for one hour and fifteen minutes to one and a half hours. Remove from oven let cool for eight hours minimum. Heat the part to 600 degrees for thirty minutes then allow to cool. That will give you a Rockwell hardness of about 52 to 60 (that's hard enough that you can't file the metal, you have to use either a honing stone or carbide). If you want to figure out what kind of metal you're using, there are tons of charts that will tell you the exact temp and time you need to get a certain hardness.
If that's the case, water quenching seems like it may still be good for the casual "blacksmith" (and I even use that in quotes loosely), who just wants to dabble once or twice with it and move on to the next kind of project.
For all intents and purposes, especially for small pieces like this one, yes, water quenching is fine. I was more adding specific information about the process. I've used water quenching for horseshoes almost exclusively and have never had a problem.
Though now that I think about it, you could probably whip up a temporary gas forge with firebricks, some black pipe, a mixing valve and some of those propane torch sized oxy acetylene tanks if you put your mind to it.
this will provide a much better hardening then just using water. this actually adds a bit a of carbon to the steel.
this will probably make it more brittle so be careful not to break your pick off in the lock.