Step 8: The mounting bar.
At first, I was planning to just bolt the frame to a small engine stand. You can get them for under $50 from your local Harbor Freight or other discount hardware supplier. They make a sturdy stand that you can roll around and you can rotate the jig around for better access.
However, since you probably have a Park stand, you can just rig a bar across the back of the jig. I used some surplus 1.5" pipe and hacksawed half of the tubing off to leave a flat. It was then drilled and mounted with T-nuts. The advantage to this design is that not only can you spin the jig, you can also tilt it away from you if you want the frame horizontal. Since the bar is not at the center of gravity, you should to run an old inner tube or bungee cord back down to the rear of the Park stand to insure the jig doesn't slowly flop forwards while you're working on it. There is enough room to mount the bar on the front of the main frame uprights and it might balance better that way. I haven't tried that yet.
However, since you probably have a Park stand, you can just rig a bar across the back of the jig. I used some surplus 1.5" pipe and hacksawed half of the tubing off to leave a flat. It was then drilled and mounted with T-nuts. The advantage to this design is that not only can you spin the jig, you can also tilt it away from you if you want the frame horizontal. Since the bar is not at the center of gravity, you should to run an old inner tube or bungee cord back down to the rear of the Park stand to insure the jig doesn't slowly flop forwards while you're working on it. There is enough room to mount the bar on the front of the main frame uprights and it might balance better that way. I haven't tried that yet.
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