A tiny, cheap Amplifier where it can be incorporated almost anywhere.
Connect your MP3,iPod,Laptop,Cell Phone... and you got your self a DIY portable stereo.
It can be powered using batteries and be helpful in many cases.
It is capable to drive a small 8 Ohm speaker or even a combination of a small in diameter
say 2-3 inch woofer and a tweeter for better acoustics.

Step 1: The Main Ingredient

The main ingredient is the LM386N IC witch is a low voltage audio power amplifier.  
Let me stay here and say that I'm not the Columbus, who discovered America!
There are plenty of information out there, just type LM386.
To begin with...
Can anyone tell the voltage rating required for each component.
<p>safest bet is atleast 35v for the capacitors... as long as it is atleast 1-v higher than the supply voltage, you should be grand :)</p>
Any idea how many watts this produces? <br>
<p>As most manufacturers claim, the LM386 can output at 6v input / 8 Ohm load(speaker) = about 300 mW. For 9v input / 8 Ohm = about 600 mW.<br>You can google around for &lt; lm386 datasheet &gt; and see the chart: device dissipation vs output power - 4&Omega; - 8&Omega; - 16&Omega; load. </p>
Can you give me the audio jack image for stereo operation? or you can just give the Simulation? :D
<p>google around for &lt; stereo audio jack wiring &gt;<br>Depending on your needs, for audio input the most common uses are 2 x RCA connectors or a female stereo 3.5mm jack.</p>
I'm afraid i have lost some files with the actual pcb dimensions. The below dimensions given are for the Ver.:1, the first 3 pictures of the instructable. <br>For those who wish to use the Ver.:2, the illustrated ones here is a tip. Use a paint App like corel photo-paint. At the print process shrink the illustrated pcb image to the point the LM386 ic pins fit to the printed holes of the printed pcb. This is a try and error process and i know it's not the best way, i am sorry for that.
I have added 2 more pictures showing the PCB dimensions.
I'm sorry for the delay guys but it's summer time, you know... <br>Anyway, PCB width = 28.5mm x PCB height = 25.5mm form border to border. <br>If it is to use the Amp as audio/music instrument it's best to add the low filter (R1 + C2) to the circuit as it acts like a bass boost. Now, if for any reason you do not wish to use the low filter use a wire between PIN1 and PIN5 of LM386. <br>C1 capacitor (MAX GAIN) boosts the volume and again if you are intent to use the Amp as music instrument it's best to add the C1. If for any reason you do not wish to add C1 simply removed. <br>SW (switch) added to connect/disconnect the C1 and can be removed from the PCB. <br>Remember to connect a wire between C3's positive pin and LM386's pin 5.
P1 is a potentiometer, the usual knob all amplifiers have to adjust the volume.
What are the dimensions for this amplifier?
Can you add a picture diagram that shows all the parts together on the PCB like the one for the one that doesn't have bass boost so I can see what it looks like? Thank you.
I have made the pcb based on your schematic.Here is the whole process. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XhLMPXxDQk
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This seems ideal for my needs. Would you think this is a suitable electronic project for a person like me, that barely can solder a cable? I am half enthusiastic, half fearful to initiate it.
salexandridis, <br>sorry for the delay! <br>nice to know you like it :) <br>[SW GAIN] is a jumper where C1's positive (+) is being connected to the rest of the circuit. Therefore a gain of 200 is applied.
Wraio kyklwmataki re Frapedia! Sta pin SW kai GAIN ti syndeeis? Diakopth me thn mia epafh sto SW kai thn allh sto GAIN? <br>Eyxaristw ek twn proterwn. <br> <br> <br>And for the rest of the world who might encounter simiral problems: <br> <br>&quot;What should be connected to pins SW and GAIN? Is it a switch of which one contact is connected to SW and the other to GAIN?&quot;
Shouldm't the PCB be 10 times larger each way
Yes you're absolutely right, it has to be 3,5 cm x 3.5 cm. my mistake!

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