In the past I've used the third hands/helping hands available at chain electronics shops and have been frustrated with their usability. I could never get the clips exactly where I wanted them or it took more time than it really should to get setup right. I also wanted the ability to hold small circuit boards and alligator clips just don't do a very good job.

I was familiar with the adjustable coolant hose systems used to spray coolant at cutting tools in the machining industry and thought that would be a great place to start. I ordered various nozzles and hose segments from my favorite online machine tool supply company and started experimenting. This is what I came up with. While it still has plenty of room for improvement it has served me well over the last 3-4 years.

These arms can be placed into pretty much any position and they will stay there.

Another nice feature is that you can make all sorts of attachments for holding whatever you need to work on. So far I've made a circuit board holder, a clamp, a mount for an LCD, and an extraction fan for keeping fumes out of your face.

All you really need are some simple hand tools, a couple taps, a drill bit and a drill to make the basic version. If you have all the tools you need, it can be made for $20 or less.

Step 1: Getting Started

The first step is to gather everything you'll need.

- Drill (A hand drill will work but a drill press would be better.)
- 3/8" drill bit
- 1/8-27 NPT tap
- 6-32 Tap
- A tap handle
- Ruler
- Center punch

Don't forget safety glasses!

- The Base:
I used a block of 1/2" thick aluminum (5.75"x2.5"x0.5"). Aluminum is heavy enough to be stable and is easily tapped. You can use whatever you want as long as it is at least a 1/2" thick and can be tapped. (Plastic, wood, MDF, steel, etc...) The lighter the material, the larger the base needs to be in order to remain stable. If the material is too soft the threads will wear out and the arms won't stay in. If you don't have a local source for the aluminum you can order it from an online metal sales company cut to length for about $6 plus shipping. I have used www.onlinemetals.com for other projects in the past.

- The arms:
The arms are made from coolant hoses and nozzles used in the machining industry to keep cutting tools cool and lubricated. I used the Snap Flow brand coolant hose system which I bought from www.use-enco.com. They sell a "Male NPT Hose Kit" that has 13" of hose and an assortment of nozzles and connectors. That gets you most of what you need to make a two handed Third Hand. I'd recommend buying two kits and a few extra nozzles and connectors. For around $12 you will have more than enough parts to make 4 arms.
For each arm you will need:
- One 1/8 NPT connector
- 4-5" of hose
- One 1/8" 90 degree nozzle.
You may want to consider buying the hose assembly pliers for $23. They are a little difficult to snap together by hand. I didn't buy the pliers but I kind of wish I had.

- The Hands:
Each hand is made out of a banana plug threaded into the 90 degree nozzle and an alligator clip. I chose the "Flexible Banana plugs (2-Pack)" from radio shack because it has 6-32 threads that will thread into the nozzle. The alligator clips are the standard 2" size.
<p>This is just a simple addition you can make using a cheapo Harbor Freight Third Hand for it's parts (around $7.90 with coupon), First take a 1/4&quot; countersunk screw and reduce the head size so it fits in a flexible tubing piece (I used a grinding wheel and cut-off wheel), you might be wise to start with a long screw then cut it off to 1 1/4&quot; just to have something to hold for safety reasons. Next snap the flexible tubing piece back onto the arm.....slide the magnifying glass over the bolt and use a nut along with the locking knob on the magnifying glass to tighten everything up. For the iron holder I took a 1/2&quot; 20 bolt (that's the thread on my third hand) I drilled a 9/64&quot; hole through the bolt, slide the iron holder into the hole and tighten the bolt down, that will lock it in place. The larger soldering iron holder needs a 3/32&quot; hole....this is just a common holder you see on cheap third hands.</p>
<p>Hi, what is the metal plate that you use for the base?</p>
Hi<br>It's actually not metal, it's a high PSI stone, about 4x that of cement so it's super hard and smooth.....that's why it paints up good. Thanks!
You have to add a piece of 1/2&quot; copper pipe to the 1/2&quot; male adapter. It just slides inside the adapter. You could glue it in but it would be better to solder it<br>
<p>Perfect! I was soooooo tired of using crappy third hands for soldering. This is just perfect. </p><p>I modified mine so that each arm is on a freestanding base instead of a fixed station. This provides much greater flexibility for the sort of soldering that I do -- jewelry mainly. </p><p>The base is made of a 1/2&quot; cast iron floor plate, a 1/2&quot; male adapter (copper plumbing fitting) and a 1/2&quot; connector. I removed the &quot;valve&quot; piece on one end of the tube and inserted that into the connector/base along with some glue. Then inserted and glued alligator clips to the other end. I also filed down the teeth on the alligator clips so as to not mar the soft metals that I work with.</p><p>I made four of these with two being half the size of the other two, again for greater flexibility.</p>
<p>I know your comment is two years old but any chance you have some links for the different parts you used? I like the idea of each arm being free.</p>
Hi, <br><br>Sure. Here's a few links<br><br>Flange plates <br><br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-1-Black-Malleable-Threaded-Floor-Flange-Iron-Pipe-Fittings-Wall-Mounted-/381855931525?hash=item58e8631c85:g:7kYAAOSwXeJYMsf3<br><br>Male adapter<br><br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-C-x-1-2-Male-NPT-Threaded-Copper-Adapter-/251649760875?hash=item3a977e9e6b:g:8PsAAOSwnDZUGvXB<br><br>I'm guessing you can figure out the other parts<br><br><br>
Another variation of this by using the premise circuit board holder plus the flexi pipes and alligator clips some hookup wire you can really upgrade it nicely.
<p>Here are the parts I used to make mine with a magnet to hold the soldering station in place to a metal surface. I normally work around metal equipment so this works great for me.</p>Loc-Line Coolant Hose Magnetic Base Manifold Kit, 12 Piece, 1/4&quot; Hose ID<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002065OXK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002065OXK?psc=1&amp;...</a></p><br>IRWIN Tools QUICK-GRIP One-Hand Micro Bar Clamp, 4 1/2-inch (53006)<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002244V?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002244V?psc=1&amp;...</a></p>Test Plugs &amp; Test Jacks 6/32 STUD UNINS PLUG BU-00241 (5 pieces)<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LVDXQQA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LVDXQQA?psc=1&amp;...</a></p>Mueller Electric 010025 set of 6 BU-60S Alligator Clips with Screw<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SVXA3H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SVXA3H8?psc=1&amp;...</a></p>Loc-Line Coolant Hose Assembly Pliers, for 1/4&quot; Coolant Hose System<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9OT8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9OT8M?psc=1&amp;...</a></p>Loc-Line Coolant Hose Component, Acetal Copolymer, 90 Degree Nozzle, 1/8&quot; Diameter, 1/4&quot; Hose ID (Pack of 4)<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065UC2K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065UC2K?psc=1&amp;...</a></p>Loc-Line Coolant Hose Component, Acetal Copolymer, Connector, 1/4&quot; Hose ID, 1/4&quot; NPT (Pack of 4)<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9O9L4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9O9L4?psc=1&amp;...</a></p>Loc-Line Coolant Hose Flared Tubing Replacement Kit, Acetal Copolymer, 21 Pieces, 1/4&quot; Hose ID<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9O4QO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9O4QO?psc=1&amp;...</a></p><p>Hope this helps you build your own. Let me know if you have any questions.</p>
<p>@Thrasha ... that list is &gt;$150. I like to do things right, but darn!</p><p>On the other hand, there is nothing inexpensive about any variation of the these snappable segmented twisty things.</p>
<p>actually, you can get some for aound 5$ if you buy these used: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/GTT-GEN09015-Plastic-Flexible-Coolant/dp/B00T5JSIGA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/GTT-GEN09015-Plastic-Flexibl...</a></p><p>Not used they are equally cheap </p>
<p>Awesome idea, but what can I use instead of the coolant hoses? Because in my country they're not cheap nor easy to find. Thanks!</p>
<p>you could probably get a ton of wire and coil it around itself, then cover it in heatshrink. You could also use plain larger gauge wire. This is also a way to ground the clips. </p>
I'm building the same thing, with the magnet fittings from locline instead of tapping my steel block. <br>However, since I'm using a 14x14&quot;x1/4&quot; steel panel as a workspace as well, I'd like to coat it so it's not a bare metal surface that is a) conductive b) hard (dropping delicate components) c) slick (said components rolling off, and if unbroken before, broken upon falling off the surface). <br>I've put a fair amount of time into googling things like &quot;rubber metal coat&quot;, &quot;coating metal vinyl&quot;, etc. But the best I've come up with is plastidip. It seems that plastidip is really susceptible to sharp edges, which concerns me, as removing the magnetic mounts will probably require me to leverage them against their edges. <br>I need a durable, soft/rubbery coating for steel. <br>So, any ideas for what I'm looking for, or how I can search better?
<p>Have a search on ebay for Silicone Oven Sheet or &quot;Silicone Baking Mat&quot; or similar combinations, there should be heat tolerant silicone sheets in different shapes, colors and sizes for around $2US incl. shipping.</p><p>I have not tried them for this purpose (but for their intended) and seeing they are insulating, heat tolerant and not very slippery, they may be ideal. Not sure if they are ESD safe though.</p>
<p>I do a little out of the box thinking Children's mats made from recycled rubber type material sold in Aldi and Lidel stores in the EU and UK of course.</p><p>I have them on my Garage workshop floor and on my work bench, nothing has ever broken these mats lock together like a jigsaw. anti slip too not sure about anti satic?</p>
<p>Awesome work! I saw this a while back and it inspired me to emulate your results. Mine's not quite as fancy, but I'm proud of it nonetheless. I used an MDF base and cheap tripod leg segments in place of snap flow hose.</p><p>I put a full writeup on my blog:</p><p><a href="http://chrisparton.net/2016/03/02/a-home-made-pcb-workstation-on-a-budget/" rel="nofollow">http://chrisparton.net/2016/03/02/a-home-made-pcb-...</a></p>
<p>The original idea which is now quite some time ago is very imaginative. I am in the process of trying to make my own improvements. For one thing, I wanted something that was in and of itself heavy, that did not need to be clamped. So, I am working with 2 separate prototypes, one that is 3/8&quot; steel plate 10 X 12 and the other smaller 1/2&quot; measuring 6 X 8. As you would imagine, they are both heavy. There is a magnetic mount one can get from modularhose.com but it is rather expensive. I am trying various neo magnets covered in rubber, plasti-dip or paint. I wondered what would be the best cover for the metal. Each has a plasti-dip rubber base preventing them from slipping on any surface or potentially to be use for the magnets which hold the hose. The challenge has been finding a surface that will be durable and will not scratch or dent from the magnets which are strong. I have tried automotive undercoat...not so hot. Now trying an automotive high temperature paint as well as a truck bed cover aerosol. The latter has been problematic because it takes forever to dry. The high temperature paint is curing. Yes, I know this sounds a bit over the top, but I want it to look nice as well as function well. I purchased the standard Loc-Line because it is better made, that is more stiff than the knock off. I am going to use both alligator clips and reverse tweezers. I am trying to design this so you can change them.</p><p>What I have not decided is whether or not to include a bright LED. My question is whether or not people prefer that or prefer to use a headlamp when they work. I welcome any thoughts. I will post images when the project is completed.</p>
<p>Now being copied and &quot;kickstarted&quot; <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/711680980/mini-hand-the-most-versatile-third-hand?ref=users" rel="nofollow"> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/711680980/mi...</a></p><p>After already been sold for a while at:</p><p>http://www.hobbycreek.com</p>
<p>This is a classic. I finally got around to making one. I made my workstation from wood and drilled holes to mount the arms (via 3-way junctions, machine screws, and hex nuts.) This way the arms can spin.</p><p>Mounting the attachments to the loc line was an issue because I didn't have nozzles handy. I also wanted more flexibility. So I hotglued 8-32 nylon thumbscrews like the ones here below into the links.</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OD0JOA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OD0JOA/ref=biss_dp_t_...</a></p><p>Hot glue bonds well to nylon and I hope to the plastic of the loc line. Time will tell, but it seems really solid. I like this solution because I can mount anything that fits onto an 8-32 screw with an acorn nut, hex nut, or even a decorative filial (pictured). Thanks again for the idea!</p>
<p>Curious, what's the rough weight that a set of three of those hose hands can handle without getting wobbly / sagging?</p>
<p>Thanks rstraugh! I was similarly annoyed, and thought there'd probably be something better here :)</p>
Here I made with a little modification. Thanks for the instructions.
<p>This Instructable is almost 8 years old, yet it is still one of my all-time favorites. A few months ago I made the base (cutting a block of aluminum on a mini-bandsaw and then drilling and tapping the holes). I tried using the SparkFun arms because they are so inexpensive, but I found them far too long and flimsy. I finally got actual LocTite coolant hoses with the 90 degree connectors and made the hands exactly as Ryan described. They cost more and took some effort - mostly in finding threaded banana plugs - but the final result is much stronger and better in my opinion than the SparkFun arms.</p>
here is my spin on your idea...I mounted it to a lazy susan apparatus
<p>it is good idea, i like it</p>
<p>Three hands, two with plastic clamps and one reverse tweezers on a bamboo cutting board with soldering silicon mat.</p><p>As I have a second Y fitting I might add a smoke extractor later...</p><p>Thanks for a great idea!!</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing, great Instructable. Very useful. I'll post pics of mine when finished.</p>
<p>This is a great instructable and a brilliant tool! Kudos!</p><p>I too bought the SparkFun version as I don't have the tools to make one of these and I saw that Ryan gets something back from each purchase.</p><p>I did want more arms and larger alligator clips than what SparkFun provided I got some extra arms and then headed out to get some banana plugs and clips. Since I didn't have a proper tap for the nozzle/banana clip attachment I went the route of heating up the threads on the banana clip with my heat gun. Once I got the metal warm enough to soften the plastic I was able to screw the banana plug in to the nozzle.</p>
<p>Very nice support, i love it</p>
<p>Awesome idea! I cheated and bought the kit from SparkFun, mainly because the machine tools would of cost me more $$. However, the customizing is always the most fun, so I sprayed mine with high-temp grill/oven paint, added a third arm onto which I mounted an LED light magnifier from a now-redundant Harbor Freight third hand, and replaced the tiny alligator clips (worst invention ever) with some fine tip reverse tweezers. I love it! Thanks rstraugh!</p>
<p>Looks great, RJ! Where did you get the reverse tweezers? I bought the hose kit from SparkFun (since they are half the cost of anywhere else), but decided to make the base as Ryan did here. I didn't realize until too late that the SparkFun base and hoses are 1/2-20 threaded rather than 1/8-27 NPT threads! So now I need to either enlarge my base holes and tap them for 1/2-20 or order new hose adapters. Another big difference I see between the kit and this Instructable is the length and connector style.The SparkFun version has hoses that are 20 connectors each with straight nozzles whereas Ryan suggests 7 and then using 90 degree nozzles, which of course would make it much harder to screw in. Which I'm guessing is why Ryan used banana plus and then squeezed them tight. But I'm curious whether you find the SparkFun arms too long?</p>
I accidentally bought wide nozzles and too cheap too buy new ones. Anyone have an idea how to still use them? I'm thinking of heading up the banana plug and just melting it in, good idea?
<p>By wide nozzles, do you mean 3/4&quot;? If yes, then you should only need to adjust the size/length/head width of the screws holding the clips and you should be golden. If you ended up with 2.5&quot; tubes, I'm not sure that would work at all for a third hand, but you can use it to make a bench vacuum system for dust removal.</p>
<p>awesome.. materials aren't available in local stores, even ebay.ph.<br>where can I buy one of your work? :D</p>
<p>very nice project. awesome!!</p>
<p>awesome one. </p>
<p>Grainger should have them.</p>
<p>Awesome project. There is a commercially available helping hand tool on amazon for $50 but I'd rather build one myself like you did. One concern I have is with melting, have you had any problems with the arms melting where the alligator clips are attached from soldering heat? Thanks!</p>
Great instructable! I made the 4-armed part tray version. Also added a sheet of 1/16th thickness neoprene rubber to the bottom for more traction and less scuffs on the work bench.
hey whats the total expensive for this project .........
<p>&pound;60.00 UK but I did not have to do any work. So this is expensive.</p><p> If companies sell this as a product they should include instructions. Mine did not. That is why I decided to buy the tool. So I never need to depend on others to include how to take off the ends to insert the clips. Cement blocks instead of metal seems to be a saving. However I had the plate included.</p><p> &pound;14.29 for pliers is cheap for ease of use.</p>
You did an amazing job on that. Just saying.
i really have to have one of those trays
Does anyone know a source for 1/8&quot; snap flow / loc-line in the EU? I'd even be content with an online-shop that ships to the EU. Its really impossible to get the small hoses where I live.
<p>rs-components corby uk rsonline.com starter kits and pliers</p>
<p>Hello this may be useful to UK members. I just bought the modular pliers and a starter kit From RS components in the UK total cost &pound;32.81.</p><p>I had bought the original spark-fun set from Primori.com with no instructions on taking off the conical ends and fixing the Crocodile Dog clips.</p><p>After searching two American web sites and then two Businesses in the UK</p><p>I got to a supplier I use a lot who just happened to stock them. Pliers and Tube sets. Shipping included &pound;32.81 compared with &pound;27.99 for the basic set with aluminium plate. No force or pressure using the holes in the base plate needed now. I can see lots being made.</p>
<p>Made a helping hand at home(kind off a remix of the above),with 3D printed parts,Pencils and used batteries .Thanks for great idea..</p><p>Here's the link - <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-Helping-Hand-and-more/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-Helping-...</a></p>
<p>Just ordered some hoses! Not sure what I'm going to use as a base. In order to keep costs low I'll probably find something somewhere. That's half the fun though. </p><p>I haven't got them in the mail yet, so I can't personally testify to their usability, but several of the reviews for this item mention this instructable and these being perfect for it:</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O14864/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2LBFUKITQIB7" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O14864/ref=ox...</a></p><p>They're a lot cheaper than anything else I've found out there too, and appear to use the same size thread. I'll let you know how mine turns out!</p>
<p>More help!</p>

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