This mod will shorten the nose and reduce restriction travel (Long barrel)
I shortened the longshot cs-6 by almost 5 inches and it lost a lot of weight in the process.
It is repainted grey /purple, black rivets to retrofit girl's standard for a change, in lieu of the Rebelle series, but that's in the painting mode directions for the longshot.
Now, I introduce to you the new C-36 STUB NOSE ASSAULT RIFLE.
SPECIAL NOTE::: Assuming you already punched the hole through the pump and plugged the air release hole to allow 40-50% more air into your dart-then proceed. If not then go check How NickJWB explains it.
I added a basic instruct on the removal of the restrictor at the end of this tutorial.
Thanks to NickJWB I had the guts to do this; Twice.
Step 1: Remove the Cocking Knobs
Pic 1: Pick any side you want, wedge the claw of the claw hammer under the knob and pry it up.
Its tricky, but don't be scared, just pry hard, trust me it won't break.
Pic 2: Shows comparison of the difference in size and modification done.
Pic 3: I used and trimmed 1/8" off the silver screws from the muzzle (do not fasten the muzzle w/screws, leave it loosely fitted). I cut the cap three quarters down and drilled out the middle. I cut down the locking mechanism leaving extra plastic in the middle to melt down over the shaft.
NOTE: hear is what I did, put the metal shaft ALMOST all the way in the lock mech, kept it right there and melted plastic over the tip and melt and pushed down on the the shaft head, let it cool and remove the shaft.
NOW: I got the dremel thin blade and cut straight down in a cross formation, similar to nerf's original design.
BAM: I just made a locking mechanism on a shorter piece.
Does it work? Don't try it until you are ready to lock your gun in place and never open up again.
in other words yes, yes it will work.
Step 2: Now Remove All Screws and LEFT Side
remove extra parts such as, the nuzzle tip and the feet that are held in by screws.
Also, remove other small parts temporarily such as locking pins, clips and spring clip at the top.
We will insert this later including the feet. However, I did not put back the loading dock cover on purpose. This is so I can see and maintenance a dart jam.
This gun has that habit if you don't completely cock the gun back all the way, and forth all the way. A partially cocked or motioned cocking knob will guarantee a jam
Step 3: Remove Items in Sequence, for Amateurs
As you can see I removed everything in order. I also placed the screws in the exact order that they belong inside and outside the gun.
This will be your reinstallation diagram so map it out or take a picture.
Step 4: Create a Perfect Line to Cut Off
First, remove everything including the air pump.
I used the tape as a line to cut using my jigsaw with an extended metal cutting blade. I cut both sides at once.
I also used the dremel grind wheel for tight spaces to keep the cutting neat and clean.
Pix 2: shows the finished cut as well as the dremel tool's edge cleaning.
Step 5: Measure and Cut Connecting Tube (Short Orange Tube)
It is imperative that this measurement is made close to exact length because now we will weld the front end with these attachments intact. I added tape to the inside part of the connecting tube. If the connection allows, add tape to the front end of the tube also.
when cutting, leave extra meat to allow for trimming and creating a straight edge of both pieces.
If your cutting isn't straight, make it straight as possible then put nuzzle end to the guns cut off and tape them together while keeping the gun barrel straight.
I used a high heat 30w soldering iron to melt the plastic.
I melted pieces from the excess plastic of the gun and attached it to the broken line, a small section at a time.
I poked through the connecting line and fed melted plastic through the holes and ran the rest along the broken line.
//WARNING\\ Please go slow and take your time. If you go to fast, simply putting melted plastic on cold plastic will not work. Add melted plastic and heat the area being added to at the same time.
Step 6: Meld Plastic on the Inside
Inside, I melted plastic with the soldering iron and attached it to the area while heating both sides.
I did not poke through, just added more melted plastic. You can add wedges and glue or meld them to the inside.
You can see where the meld worked. This took a long time because I needed it to be strong for the feet to function.
Looking inside you can see that some of the meld adhered because I poked into the cracked line and fed melted plastic through it.
In the end you can test it and find that melted plastic becomes one piece again, pretty solid.
P.S. remember to check for direct straightness on all sides periodically while melding the two pieces together.
Step 7: Add the Feet
Feet, legs, what ever its called they make the gun's front end stand up.
So, put the three pieces that hold the feet to the gun's front belly, but do not screw the orange piece in, just let it sit.
Do screw in the black part all the way, but not tight.
pic 2, 3: trim the feet so they fit the gun's body in closing up. The feet notches were to tight so I trimmed them too.
Step 8: See How the Feet Tuck in Nicely
The foot work is done as well as the nose to body Frankenstein.
Your nose nuzzle should be straight and the short attachment barrel inside close to perfection will allow your gun to shoot nicely and conserve air loss just at the connection area.
Through out the process I attached the two halves periodically to check for functionability and no cocking movement stickiness and alignment.
Also, see pic1 that shows a clearance for the cartridge movement in and out without obstruction from the feet.
Things are starting to come together now, lets move on.
Coincidentally, That orange elongated part that goes at the front end of the gun, I cut the tip off where it would fit at the top front of the gun (The sight pin).
Step 9: Finally, Put All Your Parts Back
Replace all parts according to your diagram parts removal setting I asked you to do.
Ensure the other side closes easily and tape the gun closed (Do not screw close).
Now test fire your gun a few times while its empty and again with a loaded clip. Go back and forth with the test firing and the feet opening and closing.
Finally, screw everything together and snap the cocking knob in place and your done. I put only one side knob by etching a slit in the rod to put a C-clip to lock a washer in place to shorten the rod so it could at least lay on one side.
This is what it looks like now. Not bad right?
Now its lighter more maneuverable and very assaulting. It reminds me of the video game SAS S.W.A.T.
Welcome to your upgraded CS-36 Stub Nose AR, or what ever you want to call it. But it ain't no "longshot." LOL risky, take a chance on, crap shoot.
Step 10: This Should Be Done While or Before Doing Other Mods
Does this work? Hell yeah, thanks to NickJWB I did it to both of our longshot crap shooters.
First remove the plunger by the two screws, mine is already out
He mentioned that you should expect to break your gun then do it. I think he said that so we would have the guts to rip through it. Truth of the matter? If you do it exactly as should, you'll get a hole in one that increases performance.
Because mine had a cover on it, I drilled slowly and carefully in the middle to see what that was.
sure enough it was a cover, probably to discourage me from doing this.
Next I used the screwdriver to punch down the middle a few times. It got stuck a few times, but as you can see the black particles and spring are the air restrictor and the hole in one is clean and easy flow.
This gun now shoots the same distance as the rebelle sweet revenge and zombie double strike revolver, which incidentally shoots damn far.
I did not mod the O-ring as I should have. I was happy enough with the present performance and spent 0=$.