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That moment you take your eyes off the TV remote for just a second, because of which it falls into the hands of your annoying sibling. Yes, fighting for control over the TV is a daily struggle for many. But the TV Remote Jammer shown in this Instructable, will make everyone else stop dead in their tracks.

This Remote Jammer circuit, in the disguise of an inconspicuous TicTac Box, sends a constant signal to the TV receiver that interferes with the signal from the TV remote. This means that when the Jammer is on, your TV remote CANNOT be used to change channels. It practically blocks all signals from the remote.

This cheap circuit will make you the King of your TV; now you can watch your favourite shows without anyone disturbing you! And better still, no one will even know what's wrong. A small TicTac box would be the last thing that anyone would think of being the cause of their problem.

Let's dig into the details:

  • What is a TV remote jammer? - A handy little circuit that blocks the signal from a TV remote, so no one can change the channel.
  • Why a TicTac Box enclosure? - No one would be suspicious of your evil electronics skills.

How does it work?

Pretty simple. Have a look at this picture above. The usual TV remote sends a pulsed IR signal which has some instruction encoded in it, like increase or lower the volume, or changing the channel. This remote jammer, however, sends a steady IR pulse at about 40kHz. This pulse has no data encoded in it. Hence the TV receiver receives no instruction, even if some one else is frantically pressing buttons on the remote.

Step 1: Project Details:

Time: 3 hours max.

Cost: ~$10

Difficult: Modertely Easy

Skills Required:

  • Experience with electronics
  • Soldering
  • Programming

Materials:

  1. An ATtiny13/45/85 chip - Preferably an ATtiny45
  2. IR LED - chances of this working are better if you use an IR LED salvaged from an old remote.
  3. Small Li-ion Battery (about 150-300mAh) - small enough to fit in a TicTac box
  4. Li-ion Battery recharge circuit
  5. General PCB
  6. PCB mountable switch
  7. Jumper wire
  8. TicTac box - or any enclosure you like; even a mini Altoids box will look great!

Step 2: Program the ATtiny: the Circuit...

Make connections on the breadboard as shown in the Fritzing diagrams above. Note that the wiring is different for Arduino MEGA and UNO boards.

Step 3: Program the ATtiny: Upload the Code...

Follow this guide to see how to burn the bootloader and upload the code to an ATtiny13 chip.

What is a bootloader? - If you're using the ATtiny chip for the first time, you probably have to 'burn the bootloader'. Basically the bootloader is a small piece of code that lets you run Arduino code on any microcontroller. It has to be uploaded or "burned" to the microcontroller's flash memory before uploading sketches.

For uploading the code to a different microcontroller, check out the following links:

Here's the code (suitable for an ATtiny13):

void setup(){
	pinMode(1, OUTPUT);
}
void loop(){
	digitalWrite(1, HIGH);
	delayMicroseconds(12);
	digitalWrite(1, LOW);
	delayMicroseconds(12);
}

If you have any other attiny with more than 2K of flash memory, the following code may work out better.

void setup(){
	pinMode(1, OUTPUT);
}
void loop(){
	tone(1, 38500); //adjust the frequency if it doesn't work for your TV
}

Step 4: Solder the Circuit...

I soldered the entire circuit onto a general PCB about 2x2.5cm in dimensions. The circuit diagram is shown above. Note that I added an on/off switch which isn't shown in the diagram.

Here's an excellent tutorial on how to solder tracks on a PCB.

Step 5: Make an Enclosure...

The top white lid of the tictac box can be easily removed to put the circuit inside. In addition to that, I made a square hole using a cutter for placing the switch. See the pictures above for help.

After inserting the circuit and the battery, put the lid back on and glue it if necessary.

Step 6: Test It Out!

The IR led emits light at wavelengths not visible by the unaided human eye. However, most phone cameras can detect the IR rays; the IR will appear to glow purplish on the camera's screen.

Now let's test if your circuit actually jams the the tv remote. Keep the TicTac box in front of your TV receiver (or set top box), such that the lid is open and the LED is aimed at the receiver. Switch it on along with the TV. If the TV doesn't respond to any attempts for changing the channel or volume, then voila, it works!!!

Troubleshooting:

If the circuit doesn't jam your remote, try these steps to make it work:

  1. Check if the IR LED is working using your phone camera.
  2. Experiment with the frequency of the LED pulse. Try different values between 38 and 41kHz. (NOTE: This can only work with microcontrollers with more than 2K flash memory)
  3. Use another IR LED from an old remote, if you have used one from an electronics hobby store.
  4. Try using multiple LEDs in parallel to boost the signal.

WARNING: Test out your circuit in secret! You don't want anyone else knowing what you are up to!

Step 7: Recharging the Battery...

One thing I totally forgot before putting the circuit inside the enclosure is some connection so that I can recharge the battery. Most li-ion battery charger circuits are connected directly to the terminals of the battery, so no major soldering is required.

The remote jammer lasts for about 6 hours straight before its signal gets too weak to jam the TV.

<p>Can I use a atmega8a pu instead of attiny13\45\85?</p><p>If yes pls send me a bootloader and a code.</p>
<p>Yes you can just burn the Arduino NG bootloader and you are done..</p>
<p>Can I use it on an Arduino Mega 2560????????????</p>
<p>Forget it. Not a noob anymore. But nice project anyway. Now using it as an anti-drone to block IR based RC Helicopters and multirotors</p>
<p>awesome project! stupid question, how do you read the numbers on top of the aTtiny to know you're using the right one? i have like 8 different ones but im not sure which one to use</p>
Dude you are so awesome. By the way have you discovered a way that i can change the tv with the jammer. Thanks<br>
<p>dangerous tim ur really dangerous</p>
<p>Hell yes I am :D in a harmless way of course ;)</p>
<p>Can you give the link to the battery you used?</p>
<p>Some where, some how, anything devious, humorous, and fun is illegal in this fine and free country. Don't ya' just love it! We're all descended from the guy's who pitched that tea in the harbor! Don't ya' just love it!</p><p>zapp</p>
First and foremost it should be clearly marked that this is (probably) illegal in the U.S. Under FCC title 47 chapter 1 subchapter A part 15, especially 15.5 (see link below) and if it is illegal this post could be considered &quot;marketing&quot; for this device and would also be illegal. Now that being said nobody cares if you are causing disruptive IR radiation within the walls of your home because it really won't affect anyone else.<br><br>Second, you should add copper foil to the cap to make it turn on when you open/close the tic tac box, it's much more discrete<br><br><br>Link: <br>http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?SID=892af281c0a8b4a4ebe9d20e4bea2001&amp;mc=true&amp;tpl=/ecfrbrowse/Title47/47cfr15_main_02.tpl<br>
<p>Nah this isn't illegal, for a lot of reasons. Firstly, IR radiation/signals from this device are too weak to reach even other rooms, so it's definitely within the walls of your home. Second, this isn't a product, but a simple DIY project (open source, if you must), and I have no intentions of selling it for profit. </p><p>Also, the plastic white lid is enough to contain the IR signal; note that RF signals need foil, metal shielding etc etc for blocking them completely. IR, on the other hand, is much weaker, in a way.</p><p>So yeah I'm pretty sure this ISN'T illegal, unless of course you use it on a public tv screen. If anyone finds out about your stupid prank, at most you'll be arrested for public misbehaviour or something. </p>
From what I gathered there was a homemade section in the FCC rules, so technically it is &quot;illegal&quot; but no one will ever find out and for homemade stuff it's pretty much they send you a letter telling you to stop using the device until further notice so the penalty isn't there either.<br><br>For the copper foil I wasn't talking about shielding I was suggesting to use it as a switch to turn it on just like your conventional switch only this way it wouldn't have to stick out of the box.<br><br>Also thanks for the project I might use it.
<p>Well I guess it ain't gonna do no harm as long as you keep at home. Thanks for making me aware though :)</p>
<p>Nice project. What minitotent was trying to explain about the foil was that instead of the big button on the side, you can make it so that it starts working when you open up the lid to reveal the IR LED. For that, you could use a foil on the lid and the body around it and when the connection breaks by opening the lid, the IR LED starts transmitting. But for the micronoctroller need to be working all the time.<br>I think the better idea would be to use a push-to-off switch and place it just under the lid so when the lid is closed, the button is pressed and microcontroller doesn't get power. When you open the lid, switch is released and attiny gets its power.</p>
<p>Now i get it, that's an excellent idea! I think i'll mention it in the i'ble, though for my jammer i'll stick with the switch :)</p>
<p>Those switches are called normally closed(NC) buttons/switches.</p>
<p>or buy one of these for 2 bucks (&amp; take control of most TVs)</p><p>http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Universal-Infrared-IR-Mini-TV-Remote-Control-Keychain-Key-Ring-Gadget-Novelty-p-51606.html</p>
but its funner to make it yourself
<p>how can i make one</p>
you look at the instructable above....
<p>this is pretty cool to bad i just made a order for some components yesterday :) </p><p>but i have another excuse to make another order </p><p>(in case anyone needs il recomend www.taydaelectronics.com its a great site for ordering componets u have to make at least a 5$ purchase but the shipping is fast and cheap i live on the east coast and its only like 1.60$)</p>
<p>nice</p>
It should be noted that IR LEDs draw ALOT more current than a standard LED. While a standard LED does only draw about 30ma a IR LED can draw up to 1A. MOSFET+bigger battery+Ice Breakers container, maybe?
<p>now lets see if we can inply this into a 360 version so it can block in all directions</p>
<p> It would be simple; you just would need more <br>Leds. If you were using more than six you would need a transistor to provide <br>more current as the attiny chip can only provide 200ma at once. That based off <br>the fact that most Leds draw 30ma at full brightness.</p>
<p>You must have incredibly annoying siblings if you have to go through all this work just to watch some telly.</p>
<p>Parents do count also.</p>
Nice

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