Step 5Circuit Diagram
As space is at a premium here, I'm using a small 6V battery and dropping the voltage down by 1.2V to 4.8V with the diodes D1 and D2. The PicAxe chip is happy up to 5V so this is fine.
R1 and R2 are required to allow this to be programmed in-circuit and to re-program I plug in the USB / serial programming lead to the 3.5mm socket under the box lid.
The 0.1uF decoupling capacitor is good practice with any circuit. It absorbs the voltage transients when transistors within the ICs switch. Without these, digital circuits can behave very strangely.
R3 is to pull the input to ground when the probe is not touching the track, otherwise it floats and generates all sorts of spurious noises. The solder blob on the track is to the positive rail to give a definite level for the control.
I've used a wide angle red LED but any LED will do. Drop R5 to 150R or so if using blue or white. There's not a lot of LED activity so as to keep the current consumption down.
Current consumption is around 1mA when active and drops to 200uA when in sleep mode, so the battery should last a fair while.
I used ExpressSCH to draw the schematics, and PDF Redirect to save to a PDF file. Both free.
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It doesn't matter - Connect the piezo either way around.
That only comes into play when you're using two or more speakers :- If you connect them different ways around then one is 'pushing' the air in one direction while the other is pushing in the other, so the pressure waves (sound) from each would tend to cancel out to some degree.
This is very noticeable with stereo loudspeakers if you connect them to the amplifier with one reversed. (It's called 'phase reversal'.)