Step 1: Gather Materials
Qty 2 - Ram Horns (I bought mine on Ebay for $40.00)
Qty 2 - Aluminum Stock - 10.25" L x 0.75"W x 0.0625" Thick (Check your local Hardware Store, $5)
Qty 4 - 1.5" Long Flat-head screw (any size)
Qty 4 - 0.75" Long Flat-head screw (any size)
Qty 1 - Rivet or a small flat-had bolt/nut
Qty 2 - 1" thick Scrap Wood
2 ft x 4.5 ft of "fake leather" material (Check your local fabric or hobby store, $10)
Scrap pieces of soft packing foam or maybe bubble-wrap (Check your local shipping supplier)
Total Cost: $0 - $75 (depending on what you have "in stock")
Hack Saw (optional)
Leather Punch (optional)
Needle and Thread
Step 2: Prep the Horns
I took some scrap wood and by trial and error I cut two pieces of wood with a Bandsaw to fit inside the hollow end each horn. Because the horns taper down from the base, you may need to make some angled cuts and/or use a sander to get them just right. Ideally you want the wood pieces snug and flush with the end of the horn so they are not visible from the outside. You may also need to use a hacksaw to trim the horns so they can sit flat against your head.
Next you want to secure the wood inside the horn - I did this by pre-drilling two holes through the horn and into the wood, then driving in a flat head screw. Ideally you want to do this in the thickest part of the horn and in non-obvious places (like the top of the horn, back of the horn, etc.) You can also chamfer (bevel) the hole so the flathead screws blend in. Oh, and if you have a pile of assorted rusty screws - this is a perfect place to use them! The rusty screw head blends in perfectly with the horn.
Step 3: Build the Headframe
The dimensions of the headframe will vary depending on the size of your head... Bending these pieces will also take some trial and error to find something that fits your head comfortably. You can do the bends either by hand or by securing one end in a bench vise and then using pliers. You want to leave around 2" of straight stock at either end of the side-to-side piece to give good room for attaching the horns. You can see dimensions of my headframe in the pictures.
Once the headframe pieces are formed, I attached them together at the top with a pop-rivet (See pictures). You could also use a small nut and bolt.
Step 4: Attach the Horns to the Headframe
Finally, I suggest adding some nice cushy foam to the headframe with glue or double-sided tape (see foam applied in step 7). If you want to be more authentic, leave it off... I guarantee after wearing this without foam you will be as grumpy as Tim!
Step 5: Time to Sew!
Once again, this part may require some trial and error using pieces of newspaper or scrap fabric to get something that will fit your head (See pictures below where I did a newspaper mock-up of the leather part). Instead of trying to work around the horns, I decided to sew the entire hat and then just screw through the leather into the horns. Depending on how neat your horns came out, you may need to try and glue in some leather material around the horns to cover up wood or fill in air gaps.
You can see the approximate pattern and dimensions that I ended up with in the attached images (Not to scale!). Edit: You will probably want to adjust the pattern, my finished had ended up being pretty loose and bunched up in the back (See step 7)...
My girlfriend helped with the sewing - she did a nice basic stitch and continuously checked it on my head for fit.
Step 6: Put It All Together...
First: Put the leather hat part over the headframe and adjust to get a good look/fit. Once again I used trial and error to find the best placement of the headframe in the hat, and then marked where the screwholes should be with a marker.
Next: Re-attach the Horns. This should be easy since the screw holes are pre-drilled and tapped, but you will probably want to punch a hole through the leather where each screw goes (2nd picture). Then, just screw on the horns.
Last: You'll probably want a string to pull the bottom of the hat tight around your neck. Using the leather punch again, put some holes around the bottom of the hat (12 holes total) and then thread in a string (See last picture). I found a little snug black bead as a tightening mechanism, but you could always just tie the strings under your chin.
Step 7: Done!
Time to work on my flamethrower staff and Scottish accent...