Step 8: Set up for the First Cut

Place your circular saw with the sled attached on the newly mounted aluminum angle.

Lower the saw until the blade is at the correct depth.

Start the saw and make the cut along the hardboard.
This cut represents the inside cut edge of the jig, thus, anytime you make a cut using the jig, line the edge of your jig up with the lines marked on your sheets.

Now you can run the saw, still attached to the sled on the opposite side to cut the jig away from the rest of the hardboard.
Pkranger 88,<br><br> Thanks for the instructable. It's definitely a better setup than the usual DIY circ saw guides you see IMO.<br><br> A few questions though. <br><br>First, is the full sheet of hardboard necessary? Could I not just leave enough material on the opposite side of the saw from the rail onto which I can clamp the jig to the lumber to be cut? Or am I missing something?<br><br>Could I use pegboard instead of hardboard. It's the same material, just perforated. I just happen to have some on hand so I hoped I could use it instead.<br><br>
Thanks for your comment! <br>The full sheet isn't necessary, nor did I leave it. I cut the hardboard a couple inches past the guide so that I clamp it. Good Luck!
<p>well done mate</p><p>shall be fabricating one soon.</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
<p>if common sense is used wisely, and i mean wisely these space savers work quit well.</p>
<p>pkranger88: </p><p>Thank you very much for your tutorial. I was breaking my head looking for someting srtaight in my garage. I dind't check the squaring in all sides edges in a MDF table which I had bought. Then, after some rip cuts, I had seen error about 1 or 2 mm in a long way rip about 275 cms. (I have another style of jig). I bought a new aluminum piece about 3 mts long (for using it as straight ruler), and then, I could see the error, when I approached the edge of aluminum (very straight) with the cutted border of the MDF jig that I had made. Both of edges were not flush. I see your jig very interesting, and practice. I have made too something like your jigs (inspired in a web's woodworking tutorial) where you drill and screw the shoe base of circular saw, on a board (plywood, etc, mine MDF) with a frame with two little paralell planks (the same measure each other). Then you slide all setup through the edge of cutting piece. It is more to get little strips paralell to the edges. But your Jig with aluminum guide like me cause I see it likely more accurate . Congratulations and follow with your inventions! :). A big greeting From C&oacute;rdoba Argentina </p>
<p>It appears from some comments that some readers do not realize that the guide shown in step 5 has a groove that captures the upstanding leg of the aluminum angle so that the saw cannot move left or right. The picture is out of focus and it is not obvious. I have made cuts with a straight edge clamped to the wood and pressing the saw base plate against the guide, but on long cuts the saw has wondered away from the guide. This design prevents that and is very simple. Also, an aluminum angle is not necessary, any straight and rigid piece of wood or metal that is available should work. Just make the sure saw guides on the inside and outside edges. Great design!!</p>
<p>Really comprehensive &amp; useful advice. Specially, thanks for images. Will try to spread the words with our site http://www.bipico.com </p>
Wow - what you did isn't very different, fundamentally, from the standard &quot;screw a straight board to a piece of plywood and cut the rest off&quot; kind of guide - but the WAY you did it makes it almost like a track saw. Awesome. The devil is often in the details, and I think you nailed it. Thanks.
Is there a reason you do not just use the edge of the saw plate against the guide, thereby not needing to make the plate for the bottom of the saw? <br>-fab
When you push against the guide, you're putting lateral force on the blade and on longer cuts, tend to twist you're saw. This gives you a stress free cut every time.
Hmmm. I have always felt safer with a table saw, and mine cost no more than most decent circular saws. Does take up some space, but it suits my needs better.
I also have a table saw and they are very useful, but more expensive. And, in reality, more dangerous. <br>I have seen the less expensive table saws but you will never get as straight of an edge out of a smaller table saw. <br>I have a Delta Unisaw, and am retrofitting it with an extension table. But if you're going to be cutting full panels, this is hard to beat.
Wow, this is a lot of work for nothing. Something wrong with just clamping your angle to your piece of wood being cut and running your saw's existing edge against that?
It's not just cutting straight. When working with very high quality plywood, or paneling or any kind of material with a laminated surface e.g. whiteboard, having a zero-clearance shoe will prevent chipping of surface of the workpiece along the line of the cut. Quality of the cut, not speed are the goals here.
Saw blade's have a nasty habit of twisting the saw away from the direction of cut. Slight corrections are required that result in a slightly jagged edge. When using a "free" guide, you must create constant pressure on the jig or the saw will drift away. Keeping constant pressure on long cuts is fatiguing and leads to twisting the saw counterclockwise. This jig prevents all this. By creating a "rail" for the guide's groove to follow, there is no correction necessary. You can create higher quality cuts both in accuracy and cleanliness by using jigs like this. This jig is specifically designed to take the frustration out of longer cuts in plywood. Shorter cuts would not necessarily benefit from this jig. The concept is similar to the crosscut jigs used in lumber warehouses to crosscut sheet lumber. A lot of work for nothing? NO. On the contrary, excellent cuts for 2 hours of your time. I just finished building a solid oak framed workbench and all the sheet lumber was cut with this jig. And the cuts were beautiful. No one would have been able to create such square and straight cuts using just a straicht edge. I guarantee it.
Great idea to enlarge the base. The motor was the cause not to cut a thick board correctly by using a small circular saw with a blade of 147 mm in diameter. thanks a lot.
I don't get it
What do you not get? All the wood paneling on the workbench is plywood. In order to cut a straight line, I used the jig to get those straight lines. This was merely a &quot;here's a result of the work&quot; pic. Does that answer your question?
I googled for &quot;scrap poplar&quot; as stated you used 2 pieces of them, but didn't get what are these??
Poplar is a kind of hardwood. Scrap is wood that is left over from another project. I think what he meant is &quot;I used two lengths of hardwood that I had lying about&quot;
Okay, thanks mate.
Hello,<br /> <br /> I really enjoied your instructable. Congratulations.<br /> <br /> Regards,<br /> Everton<br />
Really liked your instructable. I would be very interested in seeing a table saw base as you suggested. Keep up the good work.
This is a great instructable. I thought at first you were going a completely different way with it. Since you have a pretty darn sturdy base on it could you not turn it upside down mount it in a table and put a switch to make a table saw? I have an old wet tile saw that I was thinkin bout turning into a table saw but I have way more old circular saws lying around. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I've thought about making a "tablesaw" base for a circular saw and mounting a switch. I don't see any problems with it other than the difficulty with fine-tuning height and angle adjustments. I may just do one and see how it works out.
What are you doing to ensure that the aluminum angle is straight, when you screw it to the hardboard? The stuff does flex, and any error that's present in it will be replicated in your cuts. Even if it is straight at the time you screw it to the hardboard, screws won't keep it straight. Over time, play will develop in the screw joints, and the angle will move out of true.
I clamped a level to the aluminum angle when I mate-drilled the holes to the hardboard. After over 50 cuts, it hasn't bowed yet. Keep in mind that the lateral force it has to maintain is quite small in comparison.
"I clamped a level to the aluminum angle when I mate-drilled the holes to the hardboard." You should add that to the instructions. It's a critical step.
Done. Now go build one. I wouldn't say it's a critical step though. Deflection is going to depend on binding the angle when you clamp it. A sharp drill bit and a steady hand will work fine. The first time I made one of these, I clamped and drilled and it was as true as any woodworker could ask for. Thanks for the interest though. I'm working on getting a few more of these up here. Check back often
A little glue between the surfaces won't hurt either.

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Bio: I am a Product Development Engineer for an OEM of Food Production Equipment in Riverside, MO. I have previously ran the 3D Prototyping Laboratory for ... More »
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