Hello everyone!

If you are a Maker interested in electronics, chances are you are trying (or tried, or gave up trying) to make your own PCBs.

Going for professional PCB manufacturing may be a very good idea, especially if you are working on anything where reliability is not an option or if you need a lot of the same PCB. However, creating a working prototype (at least for me) usually takes more than one board and to tell you the truth, I'm not even close to be patient enough to wait for my boards to come back from the plant.

Now, I'm one of those unlucky guys who bought a Brother laser printer before getting interested in etching. You will find many comments on the web saying how it is difficult to melt the toner from those printers to transfer it to a copper plate.

It is all true.

Don't get me wrong : it is a very good printer. It was just not meant to be used to etch circuits.

I have tried many things : hot plates, laminators, steam iron... In the end, I probably should have given up and resigned myself to buying a cheap second-hand HP printer... But I really got mad one evening after a very time-consuming, elaborate and finally disappointing etching. I just imagined having a flamethrower to heat up that stupid steam iron... And got this idea of using a propane torch and push the melting to the limits of what the paper can endure.

Step 1: Some Background Informations...

Flash point, also called autoignition temperature, is the lowest temperature at which a substance will spontaneously ignite. For paper, it is between 218-246 Celsius (424-475 F), depending on local conditions. You should aim for a little under that if you don't want any trouble.

Propane : A by-product of natural gas processing, C3H8 combustion will release 2219 kj/mol, with a flame reaching up to 1430 Celsius. More than enough, see previous point and add to it the following piece of knowledge : Brother toner should melt at 120 Celsius.

Extinguisher : An active fire protection device used to extinguish or control small fires, often in emergency situations.

Step 2: What Do You Need?

You don't need a lot of stuff :

One solid flat piece of steel. I used a 5mm galvanized thing that I found at my local home center. It was in the "electrical stuff" aisle, but I don't have any idea what it should be used for. Don't use anything to thin, especially if made of aluminum (foil, soda can, etc) because while it is a good heat conductor, it will warp and oxidize.

You will need two metal clamps;

A flat piece of wood to clamp on the steel plate;

Some absorbent and spongy paper towels;

A propane torch;

A fire extinguisher;

Thick welding gloves;

And a bucket of water.

Of course, you will need your usual laser printer, with the paper you usually use for the transfer, some blank copper boards and your favorite etchant. This being said, I'm not going to detail how to use the printer for the toner transfer method nor discuss what is the best etchant, as this is not the purpose of this Instructable.

If you really want to know, I use the very toxic and non-staining sodium persulfate. I also use the vinegar / salt / hydrogen peroxide mix. I started with the muriatic acid / hydrogen peroxide mix of death, but it was eating away my traces and my lungs way to quickly to my liking. I never used ferric chloride.

With any etchant, follow the instructions, work with plenty of aeration, wear gloves and goggles and keep pets, kids and significant other away.

Step 3: Safety First

Yep, those should be "Best Friends Forever". And please notice that I'm working outside, on cement slabs, far from anything that could catch fire. This being said, yes of course it is dangerous. You make stuff at your own risks, such is life.

If you are a young Maker, go ask your parents before doing anything like using a propane torch. Better, let them take all the risks. If everything goes wrong, you will survive and likely post an update or a warning for the rest of us.

If you don't have an extinguisher, stop reading right here and get one. And if you want to do something brilliant, get one that you can use against electrical fires : one day, you will want to try making a capacitor bank, a Tesla coil or an induction oven...

Of course, if you don't have a propane torch, you should also stop reading and get one... Did you noticed that mine is "NC" and needs the trigger to be constantly pressed for the torch to work? Nice safety feature. If anything goes wrong, I throw it away and get that extinguisher working!

Step 4: Print Your Circuit and Prep Some Copper

I use 120g HP Premium Glossy Presentation Paper. It is cheap and available. Two important qualities for the Makers.

For the copper board, I used the cheapest, warped, recycled board I could find. My idea was to test this technique in the worst possible conditions. I'm just anxious to try it now with some really good quality boards!

The board was rinsed with acetone to remove all the old toner from previous transfer mishaps using the steam iron technique, then lightly sanded to remove oxidation and some rebellious toner.

Step 5: Place Your Printed Paper Against the Metal Plate

Just place the piece of paper with the toner up, unless you want to try etching a 5mm thick galvanized steel plate.

Maybe it is difficult to see, but this plate was far from being perfectly flat. I use my Dremmel to remove most of the bumps. My job was suboptimal to say the least, so I tried to use the flattest spot on the plate.

Step 6: Place the Copper Side Against the Toner

On top of the toner, the copper side... You don't need any tape : the pressure will hold everything in place and beside, the thickness of the tape, while being small, will be enough to make the pressure uneven, with undesirable results.

Step 7: Place the Paper Towel on the Fiberglass Side

Now, the little secret I gladly share with you...

Take a good piece of paper towel, fold it as a small cushion and use it as a pad between the fiberglass and the piece of wood. That will spread the pressure, flatten the PCB and will dramatically improve the results.

Like to paper on which you printed your circuit, the flash point of this paper towel is quite high, more than enough here.

Step 8: Squeeze Everything

I used metal clamp, and don't be shy to give it a good squeeze. Remember that the more pressure you put on the back of that PCB, the nicer the transfer will be.

Do I really have to tell you that those metal clamps will be scorching hot after the torching?

Do I really have to tell you not to use plastic clamps?

Step 9: Burn Baby, Burn!

Sorry, no action shot. It is quite difficult to hold the propane torch and take a picture when wearing welding gloves. Use your imagination to picture me with a sadistic grin carefully and equally heating the metal plate.

You will have to experiment a little bit to the best duration for the best results, as the plate thickness, the paper thickness, the ambient temperature and your propane torch will likely be different than mine. To give you an idea, I get pretty decent result with in less than a minute.

If you see smoke, it is likely too late, unless the flame just touched the wood.

You want a paper that will be very lightly roasted. No even caramelized.

Keep the extinguisher close by, you never know. It is unlikely that you will have the time to do anything if the propane torch explodes, but your neighbors will have something to use to make sure you will be looking great in that coffin.

Just kidding... but you get the idea.

Step 10: Soak PCB in Water

Take the burning hot piece of PCB (with the welding gloves of course) and dump it in the bucked of water.


When you think you waited enough, wait a little bit more.

You will notice that the soaked paper will start lifting from the board. Pull it very gently.

Some paper will stay on the toner : drop back the piece in the bucket and wait.

Repeat the process until most of the paper is removed. Be especially careful to look and remove all paper residues from thermal pads or from between close traces.

You can use a small toothpick or a soft toothbrush. Using the soft pulp of your fingers under the water is usually safe, but use your nails carefully if you don't want to scratch away the toner.

Step 11: Final Results

On the top, you have the Flamethrower transfer. On the bottom, the usual steam Iron transfer. For the comparison, I took the best iron transfer I ever made for this circuit. You will notice that even if the Flamethrower is not perfect, the lettering and the trace edges are much more defined.

I call it a success, considering that :

  1. I melted the toner in less than a minute with the propane torch compared to a full half-hour of misery, pressing the iron against the board, praying not to smudge anything;
  2. I scrapped at least 5 circuits with the iron (and had to use acetone to remove the toner and sandpaper to condition the copper again) while I got 5 successes in a row with 5 different circuits using the torch.

By the way, you probably noticed that my copper board are now shinning like the armors in Excalibur... This is not witchcraft, so don't try using my own torch to burn me alive!

I just tinned the copper with some Liquid Tin. If you drop your freshly etched PCBs in the solution (before they oxidize), they will be nicely covered with an easy-to-solder matte tin plating. To get the nice shiny finish, I polished the boards with a metal brush spinning like crazy on my Dremmel. Use gloves, a mask and goggles to do that, as the boards will heat up and the brush will throw tiny metal bits everywhere.

Step 12: What Can Go Wrong?

The circuit on the left was done without the folded absorbent paper, so the pressure from the piece of wood was not equally distributed. On a warped piece of PCB, it means some transfer issues. Also, when the PCB was cut, I forgot to sand the sides. That resulted in a minute elevation on one side that prevented a good transfer.

The one in the middle is close to perfection. Pressure was equally distributed on the entire surface, temperature was good and the edges being sanded and far from the circuit, no issues are visible.

On the right, this is what happens when you put too much heat.

Interestingly, the substance gluing the copper on the fiberglass board oozed through the metal (it looks like that), imprisoning some copper droplets.

Even after hours in the etchant, there was an intact spot, right over where the fiberglass showed signs of melting on the back (and visible through the PCB).

If you smell burnt paper or if you paper looks caramelized, you are likely to end up with this, and removing the paper will be quite difficult, even after a long swim in the water bucket.

Did you noticed that I said that I left the right circuit in the etchant for hours? Notice how the toner survived well this long soak! Usually, if I left a PCB done using the steam iron method in the etchant for longer periods, the traces would start lifting. This is very annoying on large circuits with different trace sizes.

Step 13: Conclusion

In the end, it took me longer to write this Instructable than to do my PCBs. This technique is much faster and easier than the usual steam iron method, and will give very detailed transfers. However, it is not the safest technique.

This being said, etching your own PCBs comes with other well known hazards : toxic acids, volatile alcohols, toxic dusts, Dremmel injuries, madness when nothing works... So adding some fire hazard is unlikely to frighten the real Maker.

However, stay prudent and enjoy etching.

<p>Just a little update... Using the described technique, I decided to do some quality control. I designed a very simple array of 10 wires in Eagle CAD, starting from the smallest size available. All traces tested positive for continuity. I worked 5 different circuits today and only overcooked one.</p><p>By the way, for those interested, I left the first &quot;overcooked&quot; PCB (the one described in the Instructable as having the copper melted in the adhesive) in the etchant overnight. I'm happy to report that after soaking for more than 24h, all residual copper is gone. I don't have to tell you that all traces were gone long before...</p>
<p>My experience with a Brother printer (HL2140) is actually very good with regard to toner transfer.... until I bought new toner from a general manufacturer. That somehow didnt do the trick byt somehow seemed to melt much too easy and just be all over my PCB.<br><br>Now is that enough incentive to buy 'brand toner'? No way. In that case even a PCB service would be cheaper. I will just have to find another way</p>
<p>I'm using Heat Toner Transfer Paper from ebay. Don't need to press or do anything. Just leave iron laying there fro 5 minutes and you done.</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/201414957287?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT</p>
But with this paper, you don't get to play with a propane torch and risk burning yourself!
<p>I'm disturbed that you're heating up a piece of galvanized metal with that torch. </p><p>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever</p>
<p>good note, thanks</p>
<p>Your PCB looks very good! Congratulations, you have mastered this skill. I have tried myself several times and never managed to achieve acceptable quality. Maybe it was related to my printer or maybe I somehow did not want to try that hard.</p><p> <br>Recently I ordered some small PCBs through Chinese vendor PCBWay, very <br>nice communication and fast fabrication. The price for standard <br>100x100mm boards was 13 USD and they have cheap shipping via china post. <br> Panelization did not worked in the standard way so I did it myself and <br>gave the gerbers so that I have it panelized, still I need to cut the <br>PCBs myself now. They follow strict production flow so if you have <br>something extra or non standard you have to explain it carefully, I had <br>no solder mask and this was a kind of confusion, so finally I did full <br>solder mask opening and send the gerbers so they can do the solder mask. <br> </p><p>I would like to order a serious board and I am looking if somebody can share his experience and recommend a particular vendor. Maybe I will give my order again to them, but if there is a company who <br>can panelize and cut for small charge I would prefer to use it.</p>
<p>Nice job! I am going to try it but using an heat-gun instead</p>
<p>Great Instructable! I tried the iron on method several times with a Ricoh Aficio CL3500 laser printer and Staples Glossy Premium Photo Paper for LASER PRINTERS. After 10 minutes of ironing I could not get an <em><strong>EVEN</strong></em> transfer. I was zero for 6. I tried the Flamethrower method just once and was 100% successful. Please note I said I couldn't get an even transfer. In many places (almost all of them) the toner would transfer fine using the ironing method. It was just those few spots that were bad due to uneven pressure that caused the transfer to be less than optimal and require a sharpie or some other rescue attempt. I couldn't find a non galvanized piece of metal lying around either so I used the piece of metal from the back of an plastic project enclosure box I had lying around. Its the kind you get at Radio Shack. It's galvanized so I did this outside and upwind (use bic lighter flame to test wind direction). As previously mentioned, it is not recommended to use galvanized metal but I heated the metal for only 90 seconds. The transfer was perfect. A couple of notes about the paper: We had a couple hundred extra sheets of this from a few years ago so this didn't cost anything. I mention the paper mostly because this Staples photo paper required almost NO water to remove. The entire main sheet separated quickly and easily the second it hit the water leaving only minute amounts of paper remnants in the smaller/tighter areas. A light scrub with a toothbrush and warm water for about 10 seconds and it was good to go. The result was very professional looking. Thanks for posting this!</p>
<p>Haha good job working with what you have!</p><p>I am so glad That I Have a cnc mill.. I can whip out dozens of pcbs in no time, no heat, no acid, no toner and they always work ;-)</p>
<p>I would love to have one, but I don't have the space... Big city, small house... You know what I mean...</p>
You could build a desktop cnc router... can't do as much as a mill but it will still do pcbs plus you can make them small enough to set right next to your computer :-). plus if you do the design and work yourself you can make it for less than $1k.
<p>Look up Shapeoko milling machine - DIY for less than &pound;300</p>
<p>Oh wow. I wonder how they can afford to sell it for that price and still make a profit. sure It isn't strong enough do much besides wood and pcb boards but still that is a heck of a deal...</p>
<p>So many projects, so little time! But for sure, with the laser cutter, the CNC router is on my list!</p>
<p>Sorry to cut you guys, but I've been using a Brother HL-2140 laser printer to make PCB's using sticker silicone backing sheet and ordinary clothes iron without any problem at all..Even SMD design came out nice and perfect..</p><p>br</p><p>RBT</p>
<p>What is &quot;sticker silicone backing sheet&quot;? Silicone sounds like a fairly good material for applying toner (although the torch-heating method will probably wreck the silicone.)</p>
<p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-...</a></p><p>I'm assuming he used this method. Correct me if i'm wrong.</p>
<p>He is using a different medium. I used parchment paper. I never heard of sticker silicone. I'll have to try that.</p>
<p>That is is someone knows where to buy 8.5x11 sheets. A quick search only turned up industrial rolls of the stuff!</p>
<p>It's not &quot;sticker silicone&quot; but silicon backing sheet for sticker. About any printable labels are sticked to it.</p>
<p>I wonder if a silicone baking sheet could be used? This is easy to find in letter format.</p>
<p>Good to know that Brother printer owners now have more than one option! Your PCBs look great! The only downside : you don't get to play with fire! Hahahaha... And it takes more than one minute!</p>
<p>Buy a generic toner refill for your Brother printer. They are the same stuff HP printers use. 10.00 and you are rolling.</p>
<p>Good idea do you still get those old irons without a thermostat? I used one of those and the prints from a Xerox copier .The paper burned brown and after a while one of my mates used Kraft paper with greater success. </p>
<p>I never opened the iron I was using. Should be easy to modify... but easier to use the torch. A beside, a modified iron could be dangerous if you forget about you modification and you or someone else iron some clothes with it. </p><p>Quite sure no one will spontaneously try to iron something with a propane torch!</p>
<p>Have you tried parchment paper? I get fantastic results from that. I don't know if your brother printer can print on it. But once you transfer the toner the paper just peels off. No soaking.</p>
<p>I saw your instructable after I wrote mine. As I previously wrote, mine was more fustration-driven than science-driven. It was a case of me-against-the-machine (in this case, my Brother Printer). I must confess that I'm a little chicken about putting any paper in my printer that was not designed to go there. Did you notice any issues with your printer after having fed it with parchment paper? Because this is my main printer and while I'm using it for my circuits, it should stay in perfect working order for everything else (meaning normal printer jobs)...</p>
<p>I just linked from mine to here for people with Brother printers since I got yet another comment about that brand. Thanks again for the great work!</p>
<p>Thanks! Maybe one day I'll have a link strait from Brother.com! Hahahaha!</p>
<p>You could try it at your local copy shop?</p>
<p>First, I think this is a great Instructable. I'm glad to see that someone has defeated the Brother toner of doom. It's all these little innovations that add up and what makes this site so magical. :D</p><p>I'm tempted to try your method with my setup. I wonder if I can get more consistent or faster results than I do. I'm currently batting about .500 on 10 mil traces.</p><p>I too use my laser printer for my everyday printer. I have had 0 issues with it from the parchment paper. Your mileage may vary with your brother printer of course.</p><p>Have you tried using a remote thermometer to gauge your best working temps? It might make your process more repeatable or even allow someone to build a press with an electronic thermostat...</p>
<p>Thanks. </p><p>I never tried to do a complex circuit with tons of 10 mils, so I can't tell you how effective it is with very small traces. With bigger ones, it is close to 100%. The one thing I know for sure : it is one of the quickest ways to transfer the toner!</p><p>I have tried to use and infrared thermometer to get an idea of the ideal temp, but the reflectivity of the galvanized steel sends the values all over the place. I'll have to paint the back of the plate with some high-temp krylon black matte paint to get a good reading I think.</p><p>This being said, I found the learning curve to be quite low... after 2-3 PCBs, you get the feeling... by feeling the warmth coming from the plate! But you are absolutely right : with this information, a press could be designed. But again, removing the flame is removing part of the fun! I like the idea of a thermostat beeping when it is ready. I'll try to implement one if I can get a good reading from a thermistor of from my IR thermometer.</p>
<p>Yeah, the extra wax on parchment paper could gum up the works, though not nearly so badly as an wet-ink printer. </p>
<p>The galvanized steel will produce toxic fumes when heated, use any other kind of steel but galvanized. Also Al would work for conducting the heat but it melts below the temperature of a propane flame. The best material would be a large piece of Cu as it is non toxic and conducts the heat VERY well.</p>
<p>Yep, Aerycks pointed out this issue a little while ago (see his comment below). Galvanized steel was chosen for convenience and because I was absolutely unaware of the fume issue. Cold Steel was suggested as a replacement. For the aluminum, it could be a good idea if the plate is thick enough. I would dream to find a thick copper plate, but I have to idea where to find it and fear that the price could be prohibitive... </p><p>Thanks for the reminder! <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/Aerycks/" rel="nofollow"><br></a></p>
<p>Great 'ible. You deserve a knighthood!</p>
<p>Have you been using copier paper? If so you are doing it wrong.</p><p>Use only cheap glossy junk mail pages. The toner will not penetrate the gloss and the toner will come of about 50 times better.</p>
<p>No, I'm using glossy presentation paper. I don't read magazine, and I'm lucky enough no to receive any junk mail. I'm not saying it is the best way to do it, I'm only giving one more option for the worst case scenario : no glossy magazine AND a Brother printer AND no time to spare AND a needing a good reason to play with fire!</p>
Excellent. Have you tried a thin layer of 4F black powder to light the paper? Please go outside with it, the sulphurous smoke will choke your room. (or maybe burn it down :( )<br>Please keep the lid on the can of powder when flames are around.<br>Richard<br><br>http://www.edmontonhousebrigade.com<br><br>
<p>Just be careful with your suggestions... Some people may not understand your humor. Just imagine for an instant someone really covering the paper with black powder before squeezing it between two plates and heating it with a torch... While it is difficult to have access to black powder in Canada, it is not the same in other countries. </p><p>Beside, I love the website, even if you comment doesn't follow your own guidelines... &quot;To <em>demonstrate</em> and <em>encourage</em> <br>the safe handling and the responsible and proficient use of Black Powder Firearms.&quot; I would love to do reenactment, but there is not a lot of opportunities in Quebec (and I should add, I don't have a lot of free time),</p>
Oh man, if this works for me, you're gonna be my hero. Now...where the hell am I gonna find a steel plate?!
<p>I got mine from my local hardware store. In the electrical aisle, where they store the junction boxes, the big fuse boxes and all that &quot;bigger&quot; stuff. I saw there a plate that is some kind of support. Grounding plates were also available, but they are much bigger, thicker and heavier. </p><p>As Aerycks suggested, it is probably better to ask for a piece of cold steel. Is there any welding shops in your area? That could be a nice place to go!</p>
<p>Just one small point - flash point is NOT the same as autoignition temperature, and for most substances is a much lower. Flash point is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air, but it requires an external ignition source. </p>
<p>Well, I suppose that a propane torch could be considered an external ignition source. However, the paper is squeezed between the steel and the wood, so there is not a lot of space for vaporization or combustion as the contact with oxygen is somewhat limited.</p><p>In my experience, I have tried to overcook circuits &quot;just to see&quot; and I usually get a dark brown / black crumbly paper and a terrible smell of burned plastic with a little bit of smoke, but not flames. Looking at the PCB, I suspect the smell is coming from whatever they use to glue the metal to the fiberglass as there is always some kind of delamination of the copper sheet.</p><p>Of course, I never tried to ignite the smoke or to direct to flames between the steel plate and the PCB, as that would be counterproductive. </p>
<p>Just use a page from a glossy magazine and a iron. Tear a page out of a mag. and print your design on it take iron and a hard surface apply even heat until you can see that its sticking to the copper and apply water and rub off paper. </p>
<p>You beat me to that one!<strong> Theboz1419</strong> is correct... some magazines have a clay-like substrate on the paper that is printed on... this makes them glossy. The substrate dissolves in water so the toner is released with ease. I think it would work well with your method.</p>
<p>I don't read mags... But anyways, I'm just trying to give you a good reason to use that propane torch you have! Seriously, I'll try it if I get a magazine. I don't really read them.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: A crazy mix between a physician and a mad scientist...
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