Picture of Toner transfer no-soak, high-quality, double sided PCBs at home
Drilled board.JPG

Warning: There are hot surfaces, chemicals and possibly ill advised actions like you would expect in many Instructables here. You will also be running tape and un-approved paper through a laser printer. There is a very real danger of messing up your printer. If you do wreck a printer please comment so we can all learn a valuable lesson.

There are some good Instructables on using toner transfer, but after doing my own for a while I have some refinements on the process that I want to share. You should be able to create high-quality, well aligned double sided boards every time.

If you are just dealing with a basic board for 0.1" pitch through hole components this is probably overkill. A good instructable for those kinds of boards this one by pinomelean.

I have made excellent boards with 8 mill pads and 12 mill clearances.

There are a few secrets. 1. a laser printer. 2. a hot laminator. 3. (The big secret) Parchment cooking paper. 4. Careful and diligent cleaning of the board.

If you follow my directions to the letter you can get great results.
Follow @dustin1970


Sad because this won't work with your Brother brand printer? fmarquis to the rescue with a PCB's flamethrower style Instructable.


Some brands of Parchment must be cleaned with 99% isopropyl alcohol for the toner to stick when printing. My HP1102W needs this or else the toner flakes.

dasclown3 years ago
Nice instructable. I'm always looking for a better way for toner transfer. I've had little success with other methods.
One question though. I have the same parchment paper you are using and I am using a dell 5100 cn laserjet. I run the paper through and it seems none of the toner will stick to the parchment. I have to run a couple sheets of paper through to get the toner cleaned up from the roller.

Any Ideas? I'll probably need to hunt down a different printer to try it on.
I have been looking at my laser printer which is a Dell 1320cn, I didn't have any parchment at home but tried with greaseproof paper I found out a couple of things, Dell supply toner which has a lower melting point than conventional cheaper toners. There is a setting in the printer for non Dell toners which increases the temperature of the fuser it is also possible to select toner temperature increase or decrease on a paper type basis. Putting plain paper and parchment through together may just make you fuser to cool to melt the toner to the paper. I hope this is of help, when I have bought some parchment I will experiment a bit more.
dustinandrews (author)  dasclown3 years ago
I also added your printer info to the gather supplies step. Thanks for the report. I love it when the internet makes us collectively smarter.
dustinandrews (author)  dasclown3 years ago
I suspect it is just the printer. Please consider trying some others out and letting us know what you find.
Ok so im back once again - lol !

Just wanted to say a great many thanks once again for this instructable, i now cannot live without parchment paper for all my homebrew PCB needs - AND NO SOAKING ANYMORE !!!! !!!! !!!!

Just made an SMD version of a Through-Hole PCB i made a good while back (a Low-Battery-Indicator!) where i had traces of about 1.2mm thick ( about 47 mils ) but in the SMD PCB i had made only a few traces as thin as 0.5mm Thick for testing ( about 19.6 mils !!! ) - Very Cool !

NO-WAY would i had been able to do that with the rough handling of the soak method rubbing the paper off of the board etc but i have had my 1st ATMEGA328P-AU SMD Microcontroller through today, a 32-Pin TQFP Package, so will be making another PCB with all thin traces just to see how far i can go !

Here's a few photo's !

& Once again thanks for a GREAT instrucable !!!
Low Battery Indicator 002.JPGLow Battery Indicator 006.JPGLow Battery Indicator 008.JPGLow Battery Indicator 009.JPG
dustinandrews (author)  offtherails20102 years ago
I've done chips as small as TSSOP successfully. Love to see your board with the TQFN.
NinjaCrow3 years ago
It is quite possible that I am the only one who finds it amusing that the Parchment paper states on the box "& More" and this clearly falls into the "& More " category. Arguably the best category EVER!

I've been putting off quite a few projects that need etching because I could never find a good medium for toner transfer that wasn't unnecessarily expensive. So I'll definitely be giving this a try and hope it gives my projects the kick in the pants they so desperately require :)
MCUman3 years ago
Harbor Freight sells a 9" laminator for 30 bucks. I've had mine for a couple of years now, I use it often, and it works GREAT! Item number 92499.

This is a very well done Instructable. Kudos for the insight to use a laminator vs the standard iron. Well Done!
dustinandrews (author)  MCUman3 years ago
Excellent information! I'll add it to the Instructable.
barbesj4 months ago

I'm curious how hot the internal temp is on the Harbor Freight one. I can't find any detail info on their website about it. Do you have to run the metal through multiple times to get the toner to stick?

AndrewB42 barbesj2 months ago

Hi barbesj. I found the manual for the Harbor Freight 9'' laminator. According to that the max temp is 300 deg F. Here's the link:


BogdanS22 months ago

I tried it with the same printer as yours and with parchment paper. When I peel the paper, about half of the toner stays on the board and the rest on the paper. I've also tried glossy magazine paper but when I clean it in water, some of the toner breaks away from the board along with the paper. I did clean the board and the paper with alcohol, and the board is sanded using the rough side of a kitchen sponge. The paper is printed using "FastRes 1200" mode with "heavy paper" setting. Any ideas?

mbeeby1 year ago
I've not tried parchment paper but I use the same kind of methodology but with self adhesive vinyl. Once cool, this peels off cleanly with 100% toner release. offtherails also uses vinyl now, after we discussed all manner of improvements during experimentation, so I can only assume it gives better results than parchment for toner transfer. I'm now moving on to photoresist as it gives muxh finer and consistent results, cutting production times drastically, although I still use laminator methods for applying photoresist dry film, dry film soldermask and silkscreen. I also tin boards and convery final tonet silkscreen to white. The finished boards (so far using toner transfer not UV photoresist) are virtually indistinguishable from ones from a fab house.

Could you please explain the process? Or at least, the heat of your iron when using vinyl and if it is reusable? Make an instructable with pictures!

I3L4ck5h33p9 months ago

I've been having good results using those magazine/booklet things you can get from the car dealership. like the ones advertising new model vehicles. granted you can't see through them like the parchment paper, but the toner seems to adhere to it "just right" for me. the only thing i'm having to look out for is anything that may of been scraped off when the toner was fresh while the printer seems to want to just throw it into the tray while raking it across something as it comes out.

ls12446783 years ago
Did the toner transfer to the board completely? I use Pulsar Toner transfer paper and it works great but cost about $1.50 per page. Success rate close to 100%. I am very happy with it except for double side. I have to use pin to line up the board and have to etch the board 1 side at a time. If this work it will be great for 2 sider.

Also please look into Pulsar's Green TRF. That is the stuff that bonds to the toner after it transferred to the copper and it really cover the toner pit. And the board look great after etch.

Some brands of Parchment must be cleaned with 99% isopropyl alcohol for the toner to stick when printing. My HP1102W needs this or else the toner flakes. I have done a Single Pass Toner transfer mod for the Apache AL13P laminator with the temp set @ 300F. Works for 1/16", 1/32" and scissors cut material. 10 mil features. Have a look at the kit..


dustinandrews (author)  ls12446783 years ago
I always get great transfer, you can tell because nothing is left on the paper. My printer just "cheats" with bigger areas of black. It looks good on paper but you can see when you hold it up to the light.

I've had bad luck with the green TRF on these detailed boards. It fills in the small pads on the TSOP (FTDI) and some even on the TQFP (Atmega368) footprints. I'm getting outstanding results without it. Filling in the big pads with a marker is a lot less hassle than running the TRF through the laminator as well.
I got to try it this weekend. I always have success with green TRF. I don't do it as it directed. I put a piece of paper on top and use an iron first. Then run it thru the laminator for 2 or 3 more time. I never try FTDI or TQFP. It is too easy to screw up. I did a lot of SOIC with great success. I guess when it get down to that small the TRF just too coarse. I don't much 2 sides because of the hassle of lining it up after 1 side. I end up make the board a lot bigger and use a lot of jumper. Thanks for this big discovery. If I can repeat you feast then I can graduate to double sides.
dustinandrews (author)  ls12446783 years ago
I also experimented with the blue paper. It worked pretty well, but it was much harder to register double sided designs. Consistent cleaning seems to be the key to getting good adhesion with either kind of paper. If you scrub well, rinse, Tarn-X, rinse and finally dry the toner seems to stick well every time.
Jan_Henrik10 months ago

whoa, nice techniqe!

I have tried this method using siliconized parchment paper or the backing paper. from Avery labels. In both cases printout looks good and transfer is excellent

However, the toner traces on copper are full of small holes. The translucency of parchment paper allows to add a second layer of toner, but the alignment precision is gone while toner holes.persist

I am using OKI B410d printer and the laminator is set to 150-160 Celsius, slow speed. What am I doing wrong?

jbattat1 year ago

For reference, I have used this AmazonBasics Thermal laminator from amazon ($22 at the time of writing). I was able to send through 1/16" thick PCB, no problem.


I did have trouble getting the toner to stick onto the parchment paper though. So although the toner transfer doesn't look great (first image below), all of the toner that was on the parchment paper did actually make it onto the pcb. You can see that the toner was spotty though, and I spent a lot of time filling in the gaps with a black sharpie (extra fine point). First photo below shows raw toner transfer for right half of image and sharpie-augmented on the left half. You'll notice that there are some errant sharpie marks in the photo. I simply scraped those away with fine-pointed tweezers.

The etch went well (~5 minutes in ferric chloride), and the board has passed continuity testing (holes not yet drilled).

jbattat made it!1 year ago

For reference, I have used this AmazonBasics Thermal laminator from amazon ($22 at the time of writing). I was able to send through 1/16" thick PCB, no problem.


I did have trouble getting the toner to stick onto the parchment paper though. So although the toner transfer doesn't look great (below), all of the toner that was on the parchment paper did actually make it onto the pcb. You can see that the toner was spotty though, and I spent a lot of time filling in the gaps with a black sharpie (extra fine point). I found it useful to scrape away some errant sharpie marks with fine-pointed tweezers.

The etch went well (~5 minutes in ferric chloride), and the board has passed continuity testing (holes not yet drilled).

jbattat1 year ago

For reference, I have used this AmazonBasics Thermal laminator from amazon ($22 at the time of writing). I was able to send through 1/16" thick PCB, no problem.


I tried this with a brother dcp-7065 and it will not print on the parchment. Most of the toner ended up on the fusor roller and took it me 20 minutes to clean it all off.

I also tried my brother hl-2140, which it printed good and transfered to the pcb on the first pass in the laminator. I am almost out of toner on the hl-2140 so it was too light. I will try this again when I get more toner. I am using generic toner, I hear that brother toner does not transfer well.

Yes rocket, i have DCP 7065DN too , same happening here but not always. there has to be way out. im disappointed :(

That printer refuses to print on anything with a glossy surface. It would probably work with dextrin based transfer paper though.

sottinger1 year ago

I have an hp 4100 which is very similar to the hp 5100, they use the same actual toner in them. The biggest problem I had found was there is a difference between Parchment and Wax paper. Wax paper the toner would not stick to the one side. Parchment it stuck to fine. I did not know this. Also the Harbor Freight lamination works pretty well. I have not done a start to finish with the lamination and this printer, however it looks like it will work with HP 4100, 4000, 5000, and the 5100. I used to have a 5100 and filled my own toner cartridges, and they said the toner was the same. Hope this helps.

LeumasYrrep made it!1 year ago

Thanks for the great Instructable! I tried the toner transfer method a day ago with glossy paper and it was not fun. But today I tried this method and it was super easy and quick.

I did have one issue. It seems that my parchment paper is not smooth and caused my etching to have missing lines. As a side note has anyone tried to use vellum paper?

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JSuparman1 year ago

@guerroloco: thanks for the clear explanation. Someday I will try this.

rocketman221 made it!1 year ago

I just make my first board today using this method. It came out pretty good. I used 24 mil traces, but it would have probably worked fine with 10 mil traces.

I used a brother hl-2140 printer with a merax toner cartridge and a 4" gbc laminator.
I just cleaned the board with alcohol and steel wool, the toner stuck on just fine.

veeDubbah3 years ago
I have the same printer and the same parchment paper as you. I am using the laminator that MCUman suggested and when I am done running it through the laminator all the traces look cracked. A bit like dried salt deserts. Any suggestions on how I can get all the toner to transfer?
dustinandrews (author)  veeDubbah2 years ago
90% of the time when i get a poor transfer it's due to not doing a good job of cleaning the board first. It's got to be super-duper clean. The other 10% of the time my laminator hadn't had time to get hot enough. Make sure to pre-heat it for at least 20 min.

I have been looking at various Instructables for PCB production as I am about to make some boards for several projects upon which I have been working. Here is a method where you can eliminate the pre-heating of the laminator. If you slow the roller in effect you are warming the roller thus getting a better transfer of the artwork. Here is a link for modifying the laminator. The project uses PIC chips however, if you use Arduino the control circuit is easy enough to modify to accept Arduino chips. Hope this helps. http://www.instructables.com/id/Modified-laminator-for-PCB-Toner-transfer/

pmcquain2 years ago
I noticed a new crop of ~$100 monochrome laser printers from HP, Brother, Cannon, and Samsung at WalMart last weekend. Has anyone had any experience with these?
pmcquain2 years ago
Regarding giving the parchment paper a spritz of isopropyl, do you let it dry before trying to print, or run it through freshly spritzed?
Really cool. I used to use the toner transfer method, but ended up switching to the photo resist method. Gets excellent quality, and the stencil can be reused. This is the first time I have seen parchment paper used for toner transfer, so Ill definitely give it a shot. Thanks for the instructable.
I have tried different kinds of parchment paper, also backing papers from different kinds of self-adhesive materials, and all of those failed, as printer is unable to apply toner to them good enough. Printing comes out of printer already smeared-off, with dark trail of a toner on the remainder of a sheet.
dustinandrews (author)  foxxtrotalpha3 years ago
Thanks! My experiments with photoresist have gone poorly. I had an absolutely gorgeous looking board on one side but the other side was over developed. When etched it, random bits of the photoresist just floated off! I was using Muratic Acid + Hydrogen Peroxide. I also need a better exposure light and to dial in the timing better.
barthie2 years ago
great instructable! i have the same parchment paper. my printer is an hp laserjet 1022n. i tried printing using paper types of plain, transparency and vellum with print qualities of prores 1200 and 600 dpi. they all came out smeared. has anyone had success with this printer?
terramir2 years ago
Tried this method with my brother hl-5240 (mind you I have a generic cartridge so it works with photo paper but somehow I can't get the prints to come out right with the parchment paper go figure :S
what printer do you use? that actually works?
dustinandrews (author)  terramir2 years ago
Mine is an HP LaserJet P1102w. HP CP1025nw is known to work on "transparency setting". Other laser printers are said to work but I don't have model numbers.
pmcquain2 years ago
What's the purpose of the TarnX step if its already been cleaned well with the stovetop cleaner?
dustinandrews (author)  pmcquain2 years ago
I found the toner to adhere better when I did this step than when I didn't.
brycetron2 years ago
Parchment paper with Samsung ML-1740 has issues (toner not sticking to parchment paper). The manual states that you can open the door in the back to provide a straight paper path. This may work, if the parchment paper is taped to another piece of paper.

I will give this a try!

Currently I am trying to use laser transparencies (with some success), main problem being to much heat/pressure applied and transparency sticking :-( I've already hacked my laminator, so I think I just need to mess around with temp/timings.

Great instuctable!
dustinandrews (author)  brycetron2 years ago
Have you tried cleaning the parchment paper with denatured alcohol first? If you are doing transparencies, have you tried photoresist?
Just today I am trying a new brand of parchment with mixed results. I think the laminator wasn't hot enough.
ollopa2 years ago

I need a cat for this!
Tur0k3 years ago
Printer comment:

I have an HP CP1025nw color laser printer. It smeared my board layouts pretty badly on default settings, but taping the parchment down well and using "transparency printing" settings gives great results.
dustinandrews (author)  Tur0k3 years ago
Excellent information. Thank you very much for sharing.
I put soldering flux on the board and use tin with clothes iron on top of the PCB after etching, but before drilling. The board is completely thinned.
You can see the process here and the next photos:

dustinandrews (author)  AlexHenrique3 years ago
Consider taking some photos and make an Instructable. :)
I would also like to know what process of tinning you are talking of... it sounds rather interesting!
What sort of tin?
You mean tinned, right? Can you elaborate?
Instead of the isopropyl alcohol, has anyone used denatured alcohol? I use that to clean copper all the time but want to also use it on the parchment paper. Anyone? Thanks!
shazan-13 years ago
great way
i made pcb with the soaking and is pain in the a*s

there is out the a way to make it with inkjet printer?!
vary nice
Thanks Joey. Let me know if you try it out.
"Brother" brand printers do NOT work, they use a toner that needs to get wayyy too hot for the laminator or even an iron to transfer.

Scotch makes a $25 laminator (TL-901) that I've seen at walmart, walgreens and target. I use it and it works perfectly for me if I make about 7 passes through it. It only needs to warm up for 5 or 10 minutes. It acts like it doesn't want to take the board, it will sortof pop it out at the end but that hasn't caused any problems yet and I've done a few dozen boards with it. Always double sided, all sorts of sizes.

I use magazine paper and I'm pretty happy with it. It only needs to soak in water for a minute and it peels right off. I then scrub it with the soft side of a sponge to make sure its all gone.

I use a $70 drill from harbor freight. It's pretty overkill but it doesn't wobble enough to cause a problem and it doubles as an enclosure hole drill.
diy_bloke3 years ago
I guess everybody has their own recipe. I use Hydrochloric acid mainly, with just a few drops of H2O2
senoleker3 years ago
If you do not have a laminator, you can use iron.
dustinandrews (author)  senoleker3 years ago
There are a lot of instructions for using an iron, and a lot of complaints about it. If you use an iron and can make a board with 10mil traces and 12 mill clearance I'd love to hear about it. I never tried the iron because the laminator seemed to be prefered.
i use an iron coz i dont have a laminator and it works quite well. I press it on flat for about 45 seconds and then I take the nose pf the iron to really rub all parts of the PCB.

I admitt yr laminator is way more nifty, but i ant got one :-)
The best I've been able to reliably do with an iron is about 16mil traces after a few years and dozens of boards. I think 10mil traces and 12mil clearance would be pushing the limits. Also doing double sided on magazine paper is insanely tedious; I've yet to succeed. Can't wait to try this method!
I didn't say I am an expert using iron. But I did do it that way before I have a laminator. The success rate is about 50/50. You can get a hang of it after 2 or 3 success. But there is always something went wrong. Ironing too long or not enough or squashing the thin trace. If you are a true midnight engineer or a hobbyist. You would like to spend that $100 for laminator. The time saved is "PRICELESS".
There is an example of some fine geometry (10mil/10mil) done double sided with a clothes iron and magazine paper here. I'm not claiming it wasn't a pain to do but it is possible:

Great instructable. I will definitely give parchment paper a try.
nanvw3 years ago
hello and thank you

i`m already using samsung printers for this reason .
because samsung printers use plastic toner but others use magnetic toner .
plastic toner transfers easily on copper board .
A True Work of inventive-Genius !!!!!

Very Nice find with the parchment paper & clearly awesome ingenuity !!!

 I have only started learning electronics this year and have run off a few basic PCB's with the humble Toner-Transfer process (Magazine paper, lol!) and i currently use parchment paper (Grease-Proof Baking Paper in the UK, lolx2!) for tracing perfboard/veroboard/stripboard designs with but ive also tried so very many different media types to transfer to my PCB's yet my parchment paper sits RIGHT UNDER MY NOSE NEXT TO MY LASER PRINTER Yet didnt even think to try it  !!!!!! HAHHAHAHAH !

Will be trying this ASAP !

I Even used "Water Soluble Paper" {primarily used for stitching designs onto cloth!} but the images just wernt clear, all fuzzy round each edge and not a fine-line in sight & as expensive as press n peel !!!

One quick question about your awesome & professional looking PCB in the last picture, ive been trying to find out about the exact usb mini-b Female connector you've used as i have just got a few but ive read online that pin 4 is not usually connected to anything but sometimes its connected to pin 5 via a resistor and just wondering if you'd be able to help clarify what value resistor (unless such a resistor needs to be calculated from whatever components are in my design/s !) it should be ??

Many thanks again for the hard-work of detailing & documenting this instructable as i know it can even take a few weeks to a few months to put something this diverse together & once again GREAT find with the parchment paper as i ordered some double sided PCB's a few weeks ago from china so cant wait to try this out in an effort to make my designs a heck of alot smaller !!!
dustinandrews (author)  offtherails20103 years ago
You win the prize for longest comment and the most consecutive punctuation. Huzzah! Check out the FTDI Datasheet page 23 for a detailed schematic of how they use the USB connector. I just cribbed my design from the datasheet. It's surprising how well that works. :D

You can look at my eagle files for a bare-bones FDTI breakout as well. I think the extra pin you are talking about is connected to the metal frame which for type B could be connected to ground. I suspect the resistor is for ESD protection, but I am a programmer by trade. I only play an electrical engineer on Kickstarter and Instructables.

P.S. look for that board to be on Kickstarter soon.
ONCE AGAIN Dustin - MAJOR THANKS !!!!!!!!!!!

Tried this exactly as instructed and....

                         WORKED FLAWLESSLY 1ST TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's what i used just in case you want to add any of these devices/media to your list of 'tried & tested' !

Printer:           Brother DCP-7055
Laminator:    Argos Value Range Laminator ( From the UK !)
Parchment:   Terinex Bakewell Siliconised Baking paper
+ ISOPROPANOL 99.9% Pure {For spraying onto the parchment just before printing & spraying onto Copper PCB prior to taping parchment onto before entering laminator !}

Also i printed the PCB Artwork onto plain paper, then instead of using Kapton Tape i used Double Sided Tape and stuck 4 tiny squares around the Artwork on the plain paper to stick my cut-to-size parchment onto before re-printing through my printer and on the 1st print the toner didnt want to stick to the parchment so the 2nd time i had SPRAYED the 99.9% ISOPROPANOL onto BOTH sides of the parchment, let it dry, then run it through my printer again and Voila !!! "Perfecto" !!!

PCB Made using THIS instructable:
dustinandrews (author)  offtherails20103 years ago
What made you think of the Isopropanol!? Sounds like it made all the difference. Really nice work coming up with that.

Very nice board. If you could take a clearer photo with a coin, ruler or pencil for scale I'd like to add it to the Instructable.
Well becuase i started learning electronics this year, i had bought a few "For Dummies" collection of books (which i have a rather large collection of now, lol) and read somewhere that components must be totally clean and free of grease, fingerprints, rust and so on, to help with the ease of soldering or it gets difficult to impossible for the solder to 'flow' over whats being tinned or soldered...

I used to use vodka (lol x2) but as i dont drink anymore my vodka supplies had run out so i buy Isopropanol by the litre (cheaper this way!) to clean all contacts and components prior to being soldered and always have it in a spray-applicator near my soldering station! Many thanks for the praise, its most-appreciated!

Here's a few pictures of the finished usb charger, alas, my 12MP camera phone is almost about to die (permanently!) and so am struggling to get decent pictures with it, but hopefully these will be okay !!!

I also ran off another PCB because the first came out so nice - i had to do it twice !!! lol x2 !!!
dustinandrews (author)  offtherails20103 years ago
Wow, the text on the back of that board is just fantastic. Those pictures are great. I added that last one to the first step in the instructable. What do you charge with that device?
Yeah i was really chuffed with the quality of the printer as it was the cheapest mono laser printer in the UK and i primarily bought it for my PCB creations but at the time i didnt check google for printers that had been already tested by folks to have gauranteed great results with printing PCB'c using the Toner-Transfer Method and some of the text that came out on my PCB's needs magnification to read and is read pretty-darn-clearly when under a magnifying glass!!!

I have 2 mobile phones, a usb rechargeable keyboard & mouse, 3 low quality camera's (sunglasses camera, lol & 2 miniature cam's) that all scream for USB power but i made this prototype for a heart-flasher box i'm making for my girlfriend that will look pretty for her and charge up her iphone and any other USB devices she has and the heart-flasher's internal batteries would also be charged up via PC or laptop USB - its a work in progress and will be making an 'ible when its complete!

As it came out so good i'll be making one for myself soon too (USB charger, not heart-flasher, lol x 2 !!!) !!

I'm so deeply honoured & humbled that you'd use my really simple work on your 'ible, nicely done!
Erm ? My photo didnt embed into my reply ?!? lol

Anyone know how to do this ?!!? lol x2 ?!!?
Haaahaahaha ! Thanks for the punctuation praise, one does try lol !
(Also bit of an Energy-Drink Maniac so get carried-away with the script-writing!)

Also had a brief look at your ExtraCore (Arduino Compatible) PCB - WOW - What a monumental milestone ! Absolutely Colossal work (in a nice tiny package, lol! !) - if thats you just playing as an electrical engineer then you certainly play as hard as you work !!

Ive bought a few Arduino kits to start soldering but i'm no way ready for smd soldering yet, this old dog is learning electronics with great difficulty! Only just downloaded Eagle and will be starting a tutorial soon! Thanks so much for the point in the right direction for the USB question, most-grateful !
***** AWESOME *****     ***** AWESOME *****     ***** AWESOME *****

Okay i only made a single sided PCB, still waiting for Double Sided copper-clab board!

Absolutely NO SOAKING involved, shaved loads of time off each PCB i make from now-on and Once again, MAJOR-Thanks Dustin !!!

Here's my iPhone Charger PCB also made by copying an instructable's schematic into Kicad !

(AND... i can FINALLY THROW AWAY {recycle, lol} the DARN-MOUNTAIN of collected magazines for the SOAKING METHOD !!!)

***** AWESOME *****     ***** AWESOME *****     ***** AWESOME *****
003.JPG004.JPGiPhone USB Charger.png
Machine3 years ago
Just a thought, with all those people trying to produce their own PCBs for things and ALL those people who would produce their own but don't because of the chemicals, complexity, lack of experience, poor results first time etc., etc. then it seems to me that someone should set up a shop in a corner of an electronics store that helps people to make their own PCBs and has all the materials, tanks, PCB blanks, photo-gear, etch chemicals, laminator, and PC with laser printer attached. I'd use a shop like that.

BUT, I'd only use a shop like that probably 4 or 5 times a year so there won't be a lot of business from the average customer, but with enough customers it could work.

Of course a PCB company could do the same for all the one-off people.

Couldn't say if it is a viable business model, sorry.
jeff-o Machine3 years ago
There are plenty of online shops that will do this. You send them your CAD files and a few days or weeks later you get a package of professionally-made PCBs in the mail. I usually use Gold Phoenix PCB for boards I can't make myself.
dustinandrews (author)  jeff-o3 years ago
BatchPCB and Sunstone are ones I have used. I prefer Sunstone because they are quicker (Than BatchPCB) and in Oregon. BatchPCB is the cheapest, but I strong suspect they have changed my silk to make it more visible. That's nice for a hobby board, but gave me a surprise when I did a large run elsewhere and the silk wasn't readable.
I always like idea's that are based on 'someone should' :-)
are you gonna be that someone??
I'd love to see a shop like that, but I won't be the person to set one up. I love small business and write about it.
Orngrimm3 years ago
Using a Samsung ML-2850ND and works great. Also no problem if i tape a small piece of parchment to a regular paper...
I normally print one onto normal paper. Then i cut out the size i need to cover just the layout (+ a bit more to secure and tape together) and tape the smaller parchment-pieces over the already printed layouts. Then i print it again. Simple and very easy alignment-help ;)
dustinandrews (author)  Orngrimm3 years ago
That's excellent. Thanks for the report.
jimthree3 years ago
very good instructable. I tried printing with a RICHO 4100 laser printer onto what I think is parchment paper, but the toner didn't take. I'm using what is called greasproof paper in the UK, which is for lining cake tins and baking, so I assume it's the same stuff. the paper feels very waxy to the touch. How would you describe the parchment that you use?

I might just try experimenting with tracing paper that you buy from Staples. some of the proper draftsman stuff has that quality feel about it which should work for this.
jeff-o jimthree3 years ago
That sounds like waxed paper to me. That definitely wouldn't work. I'm surprised it didn't gum up your laser printer!
wendilane3 years ago
I do a lot of sublimation printing, so I have a heat press ... if I am able to do the same with the press on a med to high pressure instead of a laminator, how long should I plan on dwell time?
I have a commercial transfer paper. The instructions say to use an irion on "cotton" (high) for 2-3minutes. I noticed this after I had tried my first one for about 30sec and had a few weak traces.
I used to use iron a lot and it only need about 30-45 seconds.
dustinandrews (author)  wendilane3 years ago
I have no idea! You may have to experiment. I'd love to hear how it goes.
wireb3 years ago
What is liquid tin? (brand name / supplier)
dustinandrews (author)  wireb3 years ago
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/421.html it coats copper with a layer of tin.
cutshopguy3 years ago
Do you think this method would work for etching brass?
dustinandrews (author)  cutshopguy3 years ago
Yes I do. If you try it before I do please let me know how it works.
sturmey3 years ago
So I print onto the regular paper? Then how do I "run it back through the printer"?
wouldn't it work to print onto the parchment?
dustinandrews (author)  sturmey3 years ago
Parchment might work directly if you cut it to 8.5x11 sheets. It's crinkly and curly though probably really hard get to feed cleanly.

I just use regular paper as a "carrier" and tape a smaller bit of parchment down. I print once on regular paper first just to see where to tape down the parchment.
Ah, now I understand. So you print onto the paper to see where and how big the image will be. Then you tape parchment onto the paper so that the paper will be the right size, but the toner will be printed onto the parchment.

Then you print again, except this time the toner is on the parchment which you can detach from the paper and transfer the toner to the copper board.

I'm looking forward to trying this, and the vinegar+peroxide+salt etching solution.
dustinandrews (author)  sturmey3 years ago
You explained it way better than I did. Nice. Please let me know how the vinegar works for you.
aheidmosa3 years ago
Trippme3 years ago
Very cool and seems a little simpler than the other ones I've seen.