I have made this out of mostly stuff I had in my woodpile, therefore some sizes may be a little strange, If I was going out to buy new material the dimensions would probably be different for efficient use of sheets/lumbar sizes.
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Step 1: Tools and Materials
Listed below are the tools I used, I am lucky enough to have a shed full so tried to use them all (this is not totally necessary!).
Drill/Driver x 1 is good x2-3 saves time swapping bits
Chop saw (hand saw will work just takes longer)
Router (you could sand the edges round)
Dowel Jig (you can just measure and mark up)
Wood turning lathe
Paint Brush and Roller
The main carcass is made from 18mm MDF (some old shelving I had)
Work top is made from plywood
Cupboard, oven shelf oven doors are 12mm MDF
Small piece of perspex for oven door
25mm and 18mm mdf for knobs
46mm dowel for tap body
Scrap for tap spout
70mm x 15mm lumbar for top of carcass and splash back framing
Hardboard for back and splashback
Glue (wood glue, super glue and Epoxy)
Container for sink
Screw and Nails
Step 2: The Carcass
1- 2x sides 230 x 500
2- 1x centre 230 x 445
3- 1x shelf 230 x 230
4- 1x bottom of oven 230 x 248
5- 2x support bars 150 x 10 x 10
6- 1x base 230 x 510
7- 1x back 5mm hardboard 546 x 500
8- 1x oven shelf 170 x 244
9- 1x oven support 70 x 248
10- 2x 70mm x 15mm x 510 top support bars
All joins were pilot holed, countersunk, screwed and wood glued together.
Cut hardboard back and nail on (sink nail heads with a punch).
Offer up your sink, I have used a 1.5L food storage container, mark and cut out with jigsaw
Install oven shelf supports.
Sand all edges to a slight round (no sharp corners for play equipment)
Prime and then paint.
Reinstall the sink.
As the MDF I was using was reclaimed and already sealed I could prime it straight away. When using new MDF make a mix of 50/50 Water and PVA glue and paint on the edges to seal.
Step 3: Worktop
The worktop then had its hot plates painted on and two coats of varnish applied.
The worktop is fixed to the carcass by screwing from underneath
Step 4: Doors
12mm MDF cut to size ( 265mm x 320mm)and then use router with round over bit all the way around.
Sanded, sealed, prime and paint
Hinges both glued (super glue) and screwed on
Knob and magnetic catch are then fitted
12mm MDF cut to size 273mm x 300mm, window marked giving a 50mm border and cut out with jigsaw. Then use a router with round over bit on all edges.
Then change to a straight cut bit and route a lip for the perspex to fix too.
The easy way of doing this is to clamp a straight edge onto your bench then offer up your door to that. (hopefully the picture will show this)
Sanded, sealed, prime and paint
Install perspex with super glue
Hinges both glued (super glue) and screwed on (I choose to have a side opening door to prevent the door coming open and landing on children's toes)
Handle and magnetic catch are then fitted
Step 5: Knobs
My knobs were then drilled through the centre with a 6mm wood bit. I then used a 58mm hole saw to start the cut. (my original intention was to drill them completly but this did not work). I then took the part drilled blocks and rough cut them out on the bandsaw. The tops were then divided into three and the two sides cut off down to the glue join.
NOTE: It would have been a lot easy to do this when the blocks were square.
The knobs were then mounted onto the screw chuck on the wood lathe and the bases were trued and the top section formed.
The finished knobs were then sanded, sealed 50/50, sanded, primed and painted.
To fix the knobs to the worktop and enable them to turn. M5 bolts and penny washers were epoxied to the knobs. M6 T-Nuts were fitted into the worktop. You then need to drill out the internal threads of the T-Nuts. The knobs are then passed through and a washer and nut put on the end.
Some form of lubrication needs to be applied to the penny washer for free movement, I used candle wax.
Step 6: Tap
The tap mechanism is a M5 bolt and penny washer epoxied in to the top of the tap., this then has a spring put on and is passed through a drilled out M6 T-Nut mounted in the base and M5 nut fitted on the end screwed up to just enough to tension the spring.
The fit the T-nut in the base of the tap a 9mm hole was drilled for the T-Nut and then you need to drill up from the bottom a 12mm hole (size of socket) so I could get the nut on the end of the bolt.
The tap is fixed to the worktop by screws from beneath.
Step 7: Splash Back
Then cut four lengths of 70mm x 15mm lumbar to 2x 400mm (sides), 1x 410mm (sign) and 1x 550mm (shelf). The hardboard should have a lip left at the bottom once framed. The framing lumbar was drilled, dowelled and glued together before being fixed to the hardboard. The shelf has its ends rounded for safety. For additional support under the shelf I fitted some decorative legs. These were cut from some old stair spindles. The shelf is screwed from behind as are the decorative legs.
Once built the personalised sign was added. I printed the sign on the computer, scribbled over the back with a soft pencil and then drew over the letters to transfer it to the wood. It was then painted in, edged with black marker and highlighted with silver marker.
The splash back was then given two coats of varnish.
To fix to the worktop drill, countersink, screw and glue into the uprights and the decorative legs from below. Then tack the overhang lip into the worktop.