Print PDF
Favorite
Email
This lamp is made from a traffic cone, some old OSB, and a couple of threaded rods. The latex rubber cone actually diffuses and transmits light surprisingly well, but I punched a pattern into it with a soldering iron to let some more light out. The base part is optional, but again, it lets a lot more light out if the cone can be elevated a little bit. A toggle switch mounted in the bottom of an aluminum can sits on top like a nose cone on a rocket.
Cones are available on eBay for cheap, but the shipping can be a bit much. Orphan cones are a dime a dozen in cities, but often too dirty and messed up to use. Please don't steal them from active job sites, because they are safety equipment for someone. Other good places to check are auto salvage yards and the county/municipal dump, because that's where the local government takes their bulk waste.
My cone is 28" tall and 14-3/4" square at the base, and weighed about eight pounds before the lamp parts were added. They come in all different sizes, and you could even make a desktop one out a of a little tiny cone. I used a 75-watt equivalent compact fluorescent. A brighter fixture could eliminate the need for the holes. Do not use conventional bulbs; they get hot enough to damage/burn/melt the cone if there's nowhere for the heat to escape.
For sale at: http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=14777951
I apologize if some of the pictures are a little blurry, it's very dark in my basement.
Cones are available on eBay for cheap, but the shipping can be a bit much. Orphan cones are a dime a dozen in cities, but often too dirty and messed up to use. Please don't steal them from active job sites, because they are safety equipment for someone. Other good places to check are auto salvage yards and the county/municipal dump, because that's where the local government takes their bulk waste.
My cone is 28" tall and 14-3/4" square at the base, and weighed about eight pounds before the lamp parts were added. They come in all different sizes, and you could even make a desktop one out a of a little tiny cone. I used a 75-watt equivalent compact fluorescent. A brighter fixture could eliminate the need for the holes. Do not use conventional bulbs; they get hot enough to damage/burn/melt the cone if there's nowhere for the heat to escape.
For sale at: http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=14777951
I apologize if some of the pictures are a little blurry, it's very dark in my basement.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Base Plate
As I mentioned in the introduction, the whole base plate part is optional -- you can just sit the cone on the ground as it normally does. However, by elevating it, the switch comes up to a good ergonomic height, and by drilling holes in the base plate, you get a cool pattern of light on the floor.
I measured a 14-3/4" square on some scrap 1/2" OSB and cut it out with a circular saw. OSB isn't an ideal material, but it was free. It is hard to cut and prone to bad chipping. MDF or plywood would work just as well. I found the center and traced a circle from an ice cream tub, then drilled holes along concentric rings, using smaller drill bits as I worked out to the edge. Make sure the middle hole is big enough to pass the plug through. Punch four corner holes for the threaded rods.
The last picture shows the underside of the board, post-holes. OSB is awfully chippy, but you'll get the same problem with regular plywood, to a lesser extent. Just peel them up and sand, seal/paint onto them, make the rough side inside the lamp to hide it.
I put two coats of polyurethane on it, but stain, paint, or seal as you desire.
I measured a 14-3/4" square on some scrap 1/2" OSB and cut it out with a circular saw. OSB isn't an ideal material, but it was free. It is hard to cut and prone to bad chipping. MDF or plywood would work just as well. I found the center and traced a circle from an ice cream tub, then drilled holes along concentric rings, using smaller drill bits as I worked out to the edge. Make sure the middle hole is big enough to pass the plug through. Punch four corner holes for the threaded rods.
The last picture shows the underside of the board, post-holes. OSB is awfully chippy, but you'll get the same problem with regular plywood, to a lesser extent. Just peel them up and sand, seal/paint onto them, make the rough side inside the lamp to hide it.
I put two coats of polyurethane on it, but stain, paint, or seal as you desire.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
Cool ible.
But notice how I said "Where did YOU get a traffic cone?"
that'd be cool, having it on your desk and all :p