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Step 4Mounting Fixture to Cone
This step is fairly straightforward.
First, take the little piece of PVC you cut earlier, and thread all the cords through it, so that the can bottom and switch sit on top of it. Bend the flaps all the way down, drill a pilot hole through a few of them, and screw them down to the plastic. Wrap the whole thing in some duct tape to tighten everything down and cover up sharp edges. You can also use duct tape as a shim when it comes time to fit it in the cone if you make the hole in the cone too big.
Cut the cone about two inches from the top, or wherever you can determine the switch mount fits tightly. Thread the cords through, then the pipe/switch mount. Line up the rim of the can flush with the rim of the cone and hold it tightly. Screw through the cone into the pipe on the sides. I did four screws -- one axis, then the other, so I could continually make sure everything was flush how I wanted it to be. Put some silicone caulk around to finish the edge.
First, take the little piece of PVC you cut earlier, and thread all the cords through it, so that the can bottom and switch sit on top of it. Bend the flaps all the way down, drill a pilot hole through a few of them, and screw them down to the plastic. Wrap the whole thing in some duct tape to tighten everything down and cover up sharp edges. You can also use duct tape as a shim when it comes time to fit it in the cone if you make the hole in the cone too big.
Cut the cone about two inches from the top, or wherever you can determine the switch mount fits tightly. Thread the cords through, then the pipe/switch mount. Line up the rim of the can flush with the rim of the cone and hold it tightly. Screw through the cone into the pipe on the sides. I did four screws -- one axis, then the other, so I could continually make sure everything was flush how I wanted it to be. Put some silicone caulk around to finish the edge.
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