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I usually like to start my seeds in a big pot and start a lot of seeds in the pot and divide later, it makes for competition between the starts and it is easy to see the strongest ones that will later produce better. Even if you have a 100% germination you will still have some plants that are weaker and need to be thinned out later, I like to do this early as to avoid root transplant shock.

Step 1: When Is It Time to Transplant Your Starts.

These are 4 week old seedlings that have been outside since they
germinated in a germination bed. They are now too tall for the base of the bed and are also needing to get divided to enable them to gain stronger root systems. As you can see in this photo they are way over crowded and will soon be root bound, which if you wait too long to separate them it is much more stressful and run the risk of losing more to transplant shock.

Step 2: Remove From Pot

You can gently rub the outside of the pot to get the soil and roots to release from the side of the pot. Removing them from the pot shows that there is good root growth and that they are ready to be transplanted to a small individual pot.

Step 3: Good Root Growth

As you can see after you remove them from the pot there are lots of roots that are all entangled and need to be separated so that they can grow more individual root systems.

Step 4: Tools to Seperate the Roots

I usually use a small fork to separate the bundle down the middle first then the rest will easily separate by hand.

Step 5: Healthy Roots

As you can see there are lots of healthy roots in the bottom of the pot
that is what is going to make your plants be strong. Healthy roots are needed for good tomato production.

Step 6: Dividing the Root Ball.

Each plant has its own root structure and will thrive on its own. As
you can see it is very easy to separate each plant for transplanting. Start with a single divide and then divide down to each individual tomato plant.

Step 7: Pots to Re-pot the Tomatoes in

The pots I am going to put these in will hold four to a section for now, it is still very early and I will transplant them at least one more time probably twice before outside growing season is warm enough to put them in the garden without protection. I like my tomatoes to come out of gallon size pots for planting in the garden, they don’t have to be that big but I just like them that big.

Step 8: Planting in the New Pot.

I will fill each one of these cells with some more peat moss and sand to help stimulate the root growth for a few more weeks. Once they are filled I will poke four holes in each cell and place a single plant in each hole making sure to plant as deep as the pot will allow.

Step 9: Feeding the Transplants

The final step after everything has been transplanted is to give them a good feeding, for this I use my special compost tea mixture I mix up. It is a mixture of manure, compost, little bit of wood ash and water. For those who do not like the smell of manure tea or compost tea you can add one tablespoon of used coffee grounds to the water and it will smell like coffee, as coffee grounds are a good source of nitrogen it will not hurt the plants just make your nose feel better. This tea will be used two to three times a week to water the tomato plants to keep them growing strong until they can be planted in the garden.

Step 10: Don't Forget to Label What You Planted.

One final thing don’t forget to make what variety you have just transplanted it will make for easier records of what kind of tomato you liked and which ones did well in your garden if you remember what variety you planted.

Have fun in the garden and enjoy your tomatoes and as always come see us at http://digdirtcheap.com for some great tomato seeds.

<p>I've always been intimidated about starting my plants from seeds, but this makes me think that maybe I could do it!</p>
<p>Tomato is a plant in the Solanaceae or nightshade family. It is a short-lived perennial plant, grown as an annual plant, typically growing to 1&ndash;3 m in height, with a weak, woody stem that usually scrambles over other plants.</p><p>Visit: http://www.bizporto.com/Pune/Tomato-Seeds/Dealer-Distributor-Trader/96542000008</p>
<p>Dipping root balls in water to separate really does work. After fighting with hosta plants, got the bucket, added water, stuffed the darn things in the bucket. Sat down, cooled off, went back and they came apart with very little effort.</p>
<p>Great tip!</p>
<p>I just plonk them (gently) on to my work surface and they you already have a few plants that you can put aside. I'll water in the morning, and do this in the evening.</p><p>I also plant almost up to the level of the first leaves, seems to slow them down for a day or two, but the plant is more stable in the ground. I also don't give any fertiliser at all until I can see that they are growing, they get ripe cow manure in small doses for a bit, wood ash comes later as this aids flowering and fruiting. </p>
<p>Dipping root balls in water to separate really does work. After fighting with hosta plants, got the bucket, added water, stuffed the darn things in the bucket. Sat down, cooled off, went back and they came apart with very little effort.</p>
<p>I learned a new tip this year for separating the seedlings with even less stress. After removing the peat pot exterior, gently put the dirt with the seedlings in a bowl of water. Swishing it around gently removes the dirt from the roots and it makes it easier (and quicker) to separate each seedling using the fork and less tearing of roots.</p>

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Bio: After 35 years of growing my own food using organic and natural methods, I enjoy teaching others how to grow in the garden and have ... More »
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