Tree Speakers

Tree Speakers
These tree speakers were handmade from +14" thick sections of what was once a towering elm tree, that have now been transformed into a completely unique piece of hi-fi art.  The speaker enclosure is made from one solid piece of elm, sectioned only at the rear of the speaker in order to hollow out enough material to create the speakers internal volume of air.

Aside from being aesthetically pleasing and unique, using actual tree rounds as speaker enclosures is beneficial to the overall speaker design because it results in an almost seam-free cabinet, thick and acoustically dead enclosure material, and non-parallel internal sides which help to reduce unwanted frequency amplification and reverberation.

This Instructable describes the unique process of how I built these specific tree speakers, and is not meant to be a complete and comprehensive guide to speaker building.  For that, please see my Instructable on How to Build Custom Speakers, which the DIY speaker builder working on his or her own project will find much more helpful.

I think that the appropriate question to ask here is not "why build speakers out of a tree", but rather, "why not"?

 
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Step 1Story

Story
In 2004 while I was attending Brown University, a massive and historic elm tree located on the east side of Providence sadly succumb to Dutch Elm Disease.  After years of trying to save the tree, it eventually had to be removed by chainsaws operated by the hands of skilled arborists and towering cranes with slings to lower the towering branches onto flatbeds and out of the city piece by giant piece.  

The giant tree's death was unfortunate and sad, but the loss of the tree ultimately led to the birth of something else: The Elm Tree Project.  The joint venture between Brown University and The Rhode Island School of Design produced a set of classes, exhibitions and specially designed studios, all built specifically to explore and produce various forms of art that could be made from the deceased tree.  

I was lucky enough to be a part of this unique program during my time at school, and have finally gotten around to documenting some of the work that I produced during my involvement with The Elm Tree Project on Instructables.

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72 comments
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Oct 7, 2010. 8:10 PMexstatosoma says:
Very nice, noahw, though I would also worry about splitting over time. I have had a big round from a Norfolk Island Pine for about 5 years. It's about 60 cm diameter (about 2 feet for the nonmetric minority) and I reckon that it's stable to work with now.
If you would like to see another recovery and use project for a dead tree, go to the Kauri Project at the Friends of the Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney.
http://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/friends/events_activities/kauri_project
This beautiful old Kauri tree was killed by fruit bats (truly). The gardens recovered it and the items made from it are very beautiful.
Oct 9, 2011. 3:39 PMtbailey103 says:
This is amazing! I think I'm going to make a surround sound system using this method. As long as I have a surround sound stereo (like the one in your picture, it should all work, correct?
Nov 12, 2010. 2:32 AMDr. Science says:
Wouldn't a person just use a router and probably varying levels of depth (like 2 inches) at a time, obviously using a jig to keep it all the same, using a deeper bit each time for every 2 inches of depth. The opening could take on a square or rectangular shape if wanted, for example. The same way the opening for the drivers should be made. The driver's particular pattern of their "frames" should be counter sunk about a quarter of an inch for a perfect fit. Two reasons: (1) for looks, adds value and craftsmanship (plus, it's pretty easy to do) and (2) it "seats" the driver to the "baffle", that is, in this case, the tree trunk making it become one with both. The object of the driver, the "transducer", is to make active, and, as active as it most possibly can, the baffle. The more immoveable the baffle, the more the baffle can be controlled. While this is being done, it's nice to know that the driver is perfectly mounted, on it's own plane, not warped or rattling against a non-prepped perfectly flat baffle (tree trunk).

While you're at it, design into the routed out area for the frame, countersink 4 anchors aligned perfectly to receive high tech looking machine threaded fasteners, for both the woofer and the tweeter.

And really, don't stop there. Find a decent self amplified - properly cross-over-ed sub drive amplifier that's piggy backed off your pictured receiver / amplifier, made the same way, same proportioned dimensions, with a larger tree trunk section. Design it to allow the room to be part of the speaker.

Lastly, choose the right driver. A really friendly vendor for this might be Parts Express out in Ohio. I live in Montana and have done a lot of business with these folks. Good people. They sell a type of product for every taste. See:
http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm

One might consider thinly sawing a much larger section of tree for the very high frequency driver, like a nice soft dome tweeter for those really sweet highs.. Mount the tweeter as close to center as possible for best dispersion, on the same wall (plane). Cool idea!

Sep 15, 2011. 10:00 AMphildc says:
I think countersinking the surface for the frame is a great idea, and you'd need a router for that, but where would you get router bits long enough to mill out a deep enough hole, or a hand held router with strong enough bearings to handle them? Also, auger bits remove material (albeit vertically) much more easily than any router bit I know of. I'd do the same as in the instructable, but use a heavy drill press.
Jan 16, 2011. 6:28 AMscorpionwoodcraft70 says:
I think the beetle and other marks like water marks like in (Spalted beech) wood bora give it character.
I am a wood turner and often use driftwood with lots of worm holes the more the merrier. I love it check out my web site click link www.scorpionwoodcraft.co.uk
Dec 20, 2010. 7:45 AMkingcm says:
cool,that's nice!
Nov 16, 2010. 6:41 PMdrewgrey says:
Very Cool.
Oct 7, 2010. 3:55 PMredbeatles says:
Magnificent!!!
Oct 7, 2010. 10:17 AMawfeckit says:
They look good, but it seems to me that a major problem will be how to stop the wood from drying out completely and then splitting. I've seen the same thing happen on tree section coffee tables, clocks, etc.
And it seems to me that the vibration from the sound would aggravate that.
I didn't read the whole instructable. Maybe I missed that part.
Oct 7, 2010. 12:19 PMGozer says:
I would recommend drying the wood before starting the build. You could cut multiple sections in case they crack. Also, the wood would be more rigid at that point, which may improve sonic characteristics. While this would slow down the process and require storage space, it would result in a superior product
Oct 7, 2010. 9:53 AMsabbbanana says:
amazing
Oct 7, 2010. 7:53 AMandrewpurnelluk says:
FANTASTIC - IM GOING TO MAKE A HOME THEATRE SYSTEM ALONG THESE LINES - GREAT JOB FROM DORSET UK
Oct 7, 2010. 7:23 AMDavid Catriel says:
Beautiful idea, and nicely done! 5 stars :)
Oct 7, 2010. 7:17 AMdavescott says:
I like it!!!

I have a similar idea which I've not yet implemented, which is to cut the trunk vertically - giving two D-profiles and using the flat surface as the baffle - scooping out the pith and leaving a strong outer shell of the xylem.
Sep 19, 2010. 8:45 AMGrqqvy says:
Just saw this, great idea! Always looking for more small things (e.g. plastic containers, PVC tubing, etc.) to make little pairs of speakers for computers and iPods. On that scale, these would be even easier to make out of smaller-diameter logs or branches, with 2" to 3" aluminum-cone speaker drivers. Thanks for the inspiration! I will post an Instructable when I make the first pair!
Jun 21, 2010. 10:23 AMchucklesncreme says:
Hey, something else that might speed up drilling time could be to build a small fire on top of the log and let it burn through. Kind of like making a dugout canoe.
May 18, 2010. 2:21 PMRelientOwl says:
Are they heavy? I would think they are.
 
May 2, 2010. 8:05 AMskwoorl says:
THIS WAS A VERY INSPIRING INTRUCTABLE! I havemade many home decore items from the logs harvested from our property and will definitely be adding tree speakers to my list. Thank you for the idea, and the how to.
Apr 9, 2010. 5:39 PMincorrigible packrat says:
Neato.  One little bit of pedantry though.  In step 5, it might be good to stress the importance of maintaining a death grip on the drill's side handle.  But hey!  I used to be a Safety Professional.  So naturally, I have a stupid injury story to relate.  A while ago when I was spending a fine couple of days crouched in a crawlspace, boring a 5 inch diameter hole through my foundation, I momentarily lost my grip on the side handle.  The drill caught me a good one upside the head.  My tongue's pretty much all healed up where I bit a wee chunk out of it.


Apr 10, 2010. 9:44 AMBad Maxx says:
OUCH! Hate when that happens! I recently got a literal ride on my old steel case 1/2" Black & Decker Catalog #361 Drill. While drilling in the foundation (cement) of my basement, (These drills have massive torque so I was hanging on with a "death grip") the bit got stuck and it spun the drill with me on top! Luckily I was using a short cord and it unplugged from the wall after about 3/4 of a revolution, I'm sure the next thing to happen would have been a broken finger or three or even an arm. When I got this drill I was told many people broke their arms using these torque monsters back in the day! Glad you're on the mend and it wasn't more serious!
Apr 15, 2010. 6:37 PMincorrigible packrat says:
I can plainly recall sitting there, spitting blood on the wall, swearing profusely and thinking that I could very easily have been hurt much much worse.  I was using one of those humungoid Bosch rotohammers that I rented at the Homey D.  These things drive a shaft that's something nutty like inch and a half, so I have little doubt that it could have taken my fool head clean off.
Apr 9, 2010. 3:48 PMArlisVDV says:
  I often see chunks of elm like this with the center rotted out.  A large dutchman (plug) in the front and back would save all the hollowing work.  I would think if you worked carefully the plug would not be noticed.  I say this knowing exactly what it takes to hollow a log out as I spent many hours making a planter using your method.
Apr 14, 2010. 10:10 AMArlisVDV says:
I was thinking either trace the opening from the inside on to a solid cutoff  piece.
Or take a cutoff piece and trim it up and trace it on the hollowed piece letting it in with a chisel.  Using a lathe like someone else mentioned would work beautifully.  But I don't have a lathe.
Apr 14, 2010. 8:11 AMdriesyo says:
cool
Apr 2, 2010. 4:31 PMYerboogieman says:
There used to be this advertisement and logo with some guy sitting in a chair like that with speakers blasting in front of him. That's what the first picture on the last step reminds me of.
Apr 2, 2010. 8:48 PMYerboogieman says:
That's it! I have been trying to think of it forever.
Apr 3, 2010. 1:31 AMmicobanff says:
That's Pete Murphy, from the band Bauhaus.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZUIxGJ-ykI
Apr 8, 2010. 9:04 PMBad Maxx says:
Different ad actually, but here is the link to the same one as the picture..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DP89iMe0BY&feature=channel
Apr 9, 2010. 9:17 PMmicobanff says:
I never said it was the same ad (I stated his name, rise to fame, and link), but you cannot tell it's Pete Murphy in that ad, hence, why I provided the link I did. lol.
Apr 10, 2010. 9:18 AMBad Maxx says:
I didn't mean to imply you said it was the same ad, I actually put the link and comment in for Yerboogieman's benefit.
Apr 9, 2010. 10:24 AMmoleman says:
Very nice, I wonder if it would be easier to hollow out the logs on a lathe?
Mount a faceplate on the speaker end, chuck into the lathe, and hog out the back with some gouges? You would have to go slow, but it would be easier I think....
I wonder if there is a way to stealth the speaker cones so music comes out of an unaltered log...
Apr 9, 2010. 9:36 AMchuotdientu says:
yeah! it's very creative you are, well done
Apr 6, 2010. 7:14 AMChromatica says:
 Wouldn't you have to wait for the trees to dry so they don't ruin the speakers.
Apr 8, 2010. 7:41 PMChromatica says:
Ahh... Just making sure because I remember when the shower steam ruined my speakers.
Apr 8, 2010. 7:04 PMapo1l0 says:

The only thing that I can think of that would make these any better and at the same time cooler would have to be wooden cone drivers, and yes they make them.  Truely awesome speakers though.

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