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I'll help you if you want to make a power source that can deliver 5 volts, 9 volts and 12 volts.

This basic but probed and functional instructable will help you to print make de PCB, edge solder and probe your Power supply.

It can deliver 1A max for basic electronic circuits in the future i'll make more Amperes power supply.

ESPECIAL NOTES:

BUY A FUSIBLE THATS PUT IN LINE WITH THE CABLE

THERES A TERMINAL BLOCK ESPECIALLY FOR IT, IF DON'T WANT TO PUT A FUSE ONLY BRIDGE THE TERMINAL BLOCK OF FUSE (NOT RECOMMENDED).

ALL RESISTORS 1/2 WATT

THE TRANSFORMER WAT YOU SHOULD USE IS 15V @ 1.5 A OR MORE, WITHOUT CENTRAL TAP IF YOU HAVE ONE WITH CENTRAL DERIVATION USE ONLY THE SIDE SECONDARY CABLES! :)

You can add a discipator for everyone Regulator there's space for a little aluminium discipator. YAY!

Step 1: SCHEMATIC

The basic schematic for you can see the array of electronic components.

If you want to modify the proyect send me and email and with very very pleasure i'll send you the .brd file for pcb and the .sch file for the schematic

my email is: montesdeoca.erik@gmail.com

Step 2: PDF Files C:

There is the files thta you want in .PDF file all ready to print! :)

One is for the art work and the other is for to print the pcb components mask Yay!

Remember use a toner transfer for circuits

DON'T PRINT IN NORMAL PRINTER PAPER

IT HAVE TO BE IN SPECIAL CIRCUIT PAPER LIKE COUCHÉ, PERIODIC OR PLATISTIC SHEET FOR

OLD PROYECTORS

Step 3: FINAL PCB Circuit

I made my own and obviusly works fine

Only for representative :)

If you want to put your in a little box it wouldbe better

*REMEMBER TO PROTECT THE DOWNSIDE SOLDER AND NETS FOR SHORT CIRCUIT

THE CIRCUIT CONTAINS DIODES FOR PROTECTION BUT IS BETTER NO TO PROBE MORE

Enjoy this basic and functional instructable.

Erik Montes de Oca Villegas

REV A.

<p>What CAD software did you use to create the PCB artwork?</p>
<p>Simple design, but if you try lm2576 - you will never use 7805 for outputs more than 0.5A, why !? because of high inefficiency and result is high heat, if input is 12V and 7805 regulator output 5V with load of 1A, then the to220 case temperature without heatsink is (Vin-Vout) * Amps * CW + Cambient = (12-5) * 1 * 69 + 25 = 509 celsius ! you quickly blow out regulator, to handle that power you have to use min ~18C/W heatsink, and is still will be wery hot, about 150C in room temperature ! 7805 datasheet says &quot;max disipation power without heatsink is 1.9W&quot; its only about 0.27A load ! 1.9w / (12v-5v) = ~0.27, check for lm2576, i always use this chip for higher loads (up to 3A)</p>
<p>Well done sir!</p>
The input electrolytic cap, at 25V, will limit the max input voltage from the transformer to about 17V. This is without any headroom for spikes, which could damage the cap. I'd recommend a cap with at least a 50V rating, and limiting the transformer voltage to 25V.
<p>I did look over the schematic diagram and there are a few real problems if that is how you built your Tri-Regulated 1A Power Supply. You show each power outlet coming off the LED's and 1k ohm resistor connection. Which means anything drawing above the LED current capability on each output will blow the LED instantly. If you built this per the schematic, it will not work. If you move the output to before the LEDs and current limiting 1k ohm resistors, then you can get an output without blowing the LEDs. Just thought you would want to change the schematic. </p>
<p>Thank for the advice, the complete circuit is modified and probed</p><p>Thank for take a look! c:</p>
<p>Bravo sir, you did make the correct changes to both the circuit board and the schematic diagram. On the 12 volt output your LED will allow 12ma of current through the LED. That may be a little dim but workable. The 9 volt outlet allows 28 ma of current which is about right, and the 5 volt outlet allows 50ma of current which made be a little too much. I would suggest you use a resistor to limit the current to between 20ma to 30ma. You could change the 100 ohm resistor to a 200 ohm and that would fix that. Just a suggestion. </p>
<p>Thanks for sharing. For added protection, I will suggest adding heatsinks to the regulator. Especially on the 7805. It will get pretty hot at around 200mA already. Try adding the clip-on type, no need for any modifications.</p>
<p>Can you explain how different voltages are produced by the three regulators when all three reference connections are tied to ground?</p>
<p>all the grounds are the same for better stability for regulator and not to have a &quot;floating&quot; earth. </p>
<p>Electrical/electronic circuits can be somewhat forgiving in some designs but not in others. You would do well to learn how LED's are powered and how regulator circuits work. I hope you give it another go.</p>
<p>Thank for the advice, the complete circuit is modified and probed </p><p>Thank for take a look!</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: Me gusta compartir los conocimientos, siempre me ha gustado la electronica y lo paranormal. Enjoy the life and be a good person!
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