Picture of Trike Lights
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This is a how-to for a set of lights for a recumbent trike. The system consists of 3 headlights and 3 taillights, all running off a central power block. It is capable of being run off a variety of batteries (as long as there are at least 7.2 volts) as well as bike generators (12 volt 6 watt type). I decided to build this system because it is much more powerful than typical bike lights and much cheaper than the high-end systems.

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Step 1: Parts List

Picture of Parts List
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bullet light.jpg
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Here is the grand list of parts!

-Clear bullet lights
-Red bullet lights
-Large red bullet light with fins
-Large white bullet-style bike light
-Red LEDs - Digikey part 67-2061-ND
-White LEDs
-White LED Resistors
-Red LED Resistors - Digikey part TWW3J8R2-ND
-Two battery holders - Digikey part BH24AAW-ND
-Waterproof project box - Digikey part HM954-ND
-Power switch - Digikey part CKN1019-ND
-Five volt regulator - Digikey part 296-8157-5-ND
-Bridge rectifier - Digikey part VS-KBPC108-ND
-Circuit board - Digikey part 3405K-ND
-Soldering equipment
-Epoxy; caulk or hot glue would probably work fine as well

Note: Not all parts are pictured.

Step 2: Disassemble and Remove Innards from Lamps

Picture of Disassemble and Remove Innards from Lamps
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First disassemble all the lamps and remove the existing light bulbs and wires.

Step 3: Solder Wires to LEDs

Picture of Solder Wires to LEDs
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You'll want to solder some wires the the LEDs. The white LEDs have solder pads built into the heatsink, but the red LEDs just have straight wires coming out of the acrylic. You may want to test the LEDs after soldering to make sure they're not heat-damaged. There is a photo of me testing a recently soldered LED.

Step 4: Mount Lights in Lamp Enclosures

Picture of Mount Lights in Lamp Enclosures
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red LED mounted with fins.jpg
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This step really isn't that difficult. You thread the wire through the hole in the back of the lamp, put a dab of epoxy/hot glue/caulk on there, and let it dry. The wires holding the LEDs are plenty enough to keep them in place, and the epoxy waterproofs the entry point of the wires. Let the glue dry with the lamps held in place by a clamp so the glue doesn't drip down the metal casing. After the glue has fully dried, you can fiddle with bending the wires a bit to make the lights point in the direction you want.
i made these. however im not sure if i need a driver. i got two 3.7 volt batteries in parallel they allegedly put out 2400 mah but my leds put max output at 1000 MAH and im using the reflector as a heat sink

abadfart4 years ago
this one has nothing to do with your lights but i was looking at your trikes and was wondering what you did for your front axles
wobbler5 years ago
In Step 5, what is the purpose of the bridge rectifier? If you are bothered about damaging the circuit by accidentally putting a battery in wrongly, I would simply put in a single rectifier. If you're not bothered about putting the battery in the wrong way because you can't (I have a similar system on my bike but I leave the battery permanently connected and charge from a wall charger via a resistor and polarised DC connector. I have a blocking diode on that to stop both reverse current and the charger being accidentally the wrong way round. The disadvantage of putting the bridge rectifier in the primary light circuit is that it is giving two diode drops across it and will be wasting approximately 2v of the battery voltage. Putting in a single diode will at least limit the drop to 1v and also save you some money. However, if you are driving it off a dynamo it is obviously necessary, although then I would also put in a capacitor after it to smooth out any flicker.
spyfoxy (author)  wobbler5 years ago
The plan is to have a dynamo as a power option, even though it is not currently in use. Ideally, I'd like the ability to switch between batteries and dynamo. Caps would be nice for a dynamo powered system, but the flicker isn't really that bad, barely noticable.
wobbler spyfoxy5 years ago
Thanks for replying. On my bike, I use 2D cells on my current system. You can get them at up to about 10Ah which means they last a long time. The light I use for seeing by is a modified 3W torch which used 2D cells via a DC-DC chip. It is 3W Cree LED based and very very bright if a little narrow. I also use a standard 3v flashing white bike light to be seen by at all angles and a rear red flashing 5 led light. Total consumption including back light is less than 1.5A so it will give a long time of use. I originally had a bottle dynamo system but I prefer this as the drag from a bottle dynamo was not fun plus I can switch out the 3W Cree for when I am on lit roads and only need to be seen! However, I had a bike a long time ago with a hub dynamo and that was superb, very little drag if at all in real terms, it would be brilliant at keeping this charged and probably allow smaller batteries to be use..
lemonie6 years ago
What is your connection with the site

spyfoxy (author)  lemonie5 years ago
I post there on occasion! Although I'm not the primary author there heh.
lemonie spyfoxy5 years ago
If you're admitting that these are not photos of your work and you've just copied them because they look good - you should take them out and replace them with photographs of something you did do. It's not right if these ain't your trike!

spyfoxy (author)  lemonie5 years ago
Nono. My boyfriend (the photographer) and I built it together, it's our trike. The site is our blog.
lemonie spyfoxy5 years ago
(you should say so in the introduction) L
Nice pictures!
spyfoxy (author)  Yerboogieman5 years ago
Thanks! Although I'm not the photographer so I can't claim credit there. :) The photographer is the other author at the Steuben's Wheelmen blog.
jolshefsky6 years ago
Rather than using power-robbing resistors, I have been using the more-expensive (but more efficient) constant-current DC-DC converters such as the buck- and boost- "puck" line from LED Supply. Because they are constant current, you can wire your LED's in series and use only one converter per string. The "buck" converters step the voltage down, so if you take all the LED's in series and add up their forward voltages, you need about 1 volt more than that for an input voltage. The "boost" converter increases the supply voltage, and you'd need a supply with less than your forward-voltage sum minus 3 volts.

You can also run identical LED's in parallel (i.e. use a buck converter with 3 red LED's in parallel) but the current is distributed to each LED equally (as long as they have the same forward voltage drop). Thus, 3 LED's with a 1000mA converter will drive each LED at about 333mA.
spyfoxy (author)  jolshefsky5 years ago
Thanks for the comment! I do know about the efficient DC-DC converters, but the problem is that I determined that each LED would need it's own converter. I can't connect the LEDs in series because I want to retain the ability to add/remove LEDs while on the trail (via little plugs I can unplug). If they're in series, I'd lose the whole set of lights!

I could do parallel, but it is actually not a very good idea to connect LEDs in parallel unless you are sure they came from the same batch. Technically you can do it, but it can shorten their life if they have minute differences in their voltage drops. Constant current power sources are out for parallel LEDs because I want the ability to add/remove LEDs on the trail. If the circuit is built for 3 LEDs and I remove one, the current would be all wrong. But yea, "officially" (officially being defined as according to my analog devices professor), connecting LEDs in parallel=bad unless you are sure they came from the same batch/substrate. Even identical LEDs from the same supplier are different from batch to batch.

So yea, I do love the idea of using DC-DC converters, but really I'd like one for each LED so I can configure which lights are on/off. (For example, on the trail I just use one of the 3 tail lights because there are no cars on the trail and having all 3 is bright enough to annoy other trail users.)