Thanks for the video. I have made four of them but I keep having the same problem. I can not get the outside of the ring (the part with all of the notches) flat. All of my rings have a slight taper to them. I have beating on them to no avail. Is there a trick to making the ring flat?
Just a question/suggestion. If you are putting your ring on the mandrel the same way each time I think it would end up with a taper. Reversing the direction the ring is put on the mandrel should make for a straighter ring.
I have not tried this suggestion but I think it could work, Use a dapping set to dome your coin beforehand then cut your hole in center then start beating the crap out of it on the mandrel.. Pretty sure annealing would make this a lot easier.
Curious....Have you ever tried to make them without annealing? How much easier to work with did annealing make it? I make rings almost every day and I have never annealed the coins as I use silver and I dont necessarily know if it would apply. My rings usually have the original aged toning that I want to leave intact and I would be afraid to heat them up.
It is good to see that you are so willing to share. I mean you are willing to have other people tell you how they do what they do.
Of course, as you say, your grandfather forbids you to do the same. Luckily, he approves of you selling your goods on ebay, and we are so fortunate that you are willing to tell us where to buy them from you.
I suggest that you are using this forum not to share with other crafters as the others here wish to do but only to increase your own knowledge and income.
i have tried making them without annealing, but i find that it just makes moving the metal way easier for me. i'm pretty petite and don't really have the physique of a blacksmith per se haha, so i always try to make everything as easy as possible for myself. it is an extra step though and it will destroy any natural patina.
i would think that there would also a fairly discernible difference between working with the silver rings VS the more recent copper rings, but i don't use silver ones so i'm not positive on that. i just know annealed copper is way way softer than work-hardened silver ;)
First off i like the idea. Annealing is a good idea it makes working the metal easier and when work is easier there is less room for error. Ive made quite a few of these now , im a pretty built person and i anneal them it just makes life easier.
Cool... Maybe silver quarters picked up off of feebay may be easier to work without annealing....I sure wish I could anneal mine but I would rather not risk it. Here it an example of what I do.....just thought I would share.
Holy Crap!!! Ok, I realize that you promised your Grandpappy that, and I respect that, but how about instead of telling HIS secret, try to adapt the method into something else and tell us THAT method instead of HIS. Ex. Deep Fried Corn Original- Coat in butter and deep fry at 450 Adapted- deep fry at 200, coat in butter, deep fry again at 450 ...just a thought...
BTW that Deep Fried Corn I just made up, it`s not a actual recipe...duh...
this is very nice work i think i wouldn't anneal if your getting this kind of detail from your rings. I to am curious about how you made these. the directionality of the writing is perfect.
Do you think this would be possible to do without a punch and die? Like if I just carefully drilled a hole out of the center? Or would it be too hard to get a good circle cut out that way?
I notice you place the quarter in water after heating it. This is technically not annealing, as annealing is heating the metal to temperature and then air cooling...this allows for the metal grains to grow more. Air cooling should yield softer metal than quenching in water. Very nice results!
Well, the US quarters are a nice copper alloy, which I've found to be just malleable enough to turn into a ring shape without being so malleable that you lose detail. I have tried Canadian quarters, and they DO work, but tend to get marred a little easier, and the larger sizes seem to lose a lot of detail on the inside surface. I'm guessing they're a slightly softer metal.
Great Instructable! I'm going to give this a try. Question, what kind of sandpaper do you use? I'm new to metal working so I'm not sure if you need a special type. Thanks again for the video!
so this isn't a federal offense? because a teacher at my school said it was when I asked if I could drill out a quarter for a different kind of ring. (the tap tap spoon kind)
In high school I made 2 rings from solid silver quarters. Quarters before 1964 were silver in the middle and not copper. I would tap the edge with a spoon and the quarter would flare out.Then drill a hole in the middle and carve out with a knife to fit.
Yup, that's the traditional way :) There's even another tutorial on here for that I think. This way is slightly different though, cos you can use the non-silver coins, and the outside of the ring maintains the writing on the coin so you can tell at a glance what it is.
I want to try the other way sometime though! Just gotta find a silver quarter.
Using a spoon and lots of turning will keep it uniform, but it takes a LONG LONG time. You should also hold it in your fingers and not put it in a vice when you tap it. Your fingers will turn black from oxidation and they will eventually go numb from the hours of holding the quarter, but it will come out better this way. lol
I've seen videos of people using hammers on the silver ones but they always get lopsided.
By the way, thanks for this video. I saw silver coins sold on ebay like this and was wondering how they got the letters to show. The guy told me to buy one and figure it out for myself. I didn't buy one of course. lol
When you do the spoon technique the letters wont show on the outside. It'll just be a smooth silver ring.
given the size of your fingers, try for a silver DIME. It'll be cheaper to boot ;-)
Best places to look are, the pawn shop, numismatist shops(coin collectors) or one of those sleezy "we buy gold and silver" joints. A few months ago, you could still find "poor" grade coins for under $2. As a final try, check the coin sorter machines. They will kick out silver coins, along with foreign currency. And many people will just leave them, thinking they're not worth enough to trouble over.
Never fear. you have that nice ring mandrel. If it's a little small, you can always aneel, then stretch a few sizes.
You are DEAD RIGHT on softening copper. Many people don't realize, cause they only work the big and dirty metals, instead of small and shiny. When you shock-quench copper and copper alloys, it leaves them SOFTER not harder. Has to do with grain growths.
On a technical note, consider covering the punched surface with a touch of nail polish(it's just the one edge) or lacquering the whole thing. Many MANY people react with the copper. It'll turn the ring and their fingers colors. Not so much a problem with the Nickle rings, or silver versions, but the modern cored coins, yes. Also fun fact that the US nickle is the only one of the normal circulating coins currently made that's still worth more as scrap than as a coin($0.05 vs $0.0500305). All silver us coins are worth many times their face value, in scrap.
Nice punch and die set! Never thought of using one with a PLASTIC cover! all mine have always been steel over steel. I guess that does aid in visual lineup of the piece to be punched!
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I make rings almost every day and I have never annealed the coins as I use silver and I dont necessarily know if it would apply.
My rings usually have the original aged toning that I want to leave intact and I would be afraid to heat them up.
Of course, as you say, your grandfather forbids you to do the same. Luckily, he approves of you selling your goods on ebay, and we are so fortunate that you are willing to tell us where to buy them from you.
I suggest that you are using this forum not to share with other crafters as the others here wish to do but only to increase your own knowledge and income.
i would think that there would also a fairly discernible difference between working with the silver rings VS the more recent copper rings, but i don't use silver ones so i'm not positive on that. i just know annealed copper is way way softer than work-hardened silver ;)
Maybe silver quarters picked up off of feebay may be easier to work without annealing....I sure wish I could anneal mine but I would rather not risk it.
Here it an example of what I do.....just thought I would share.
Ok, I realize that you promised your Grandpappy that, and I respect that, but how about instead of telling HIS secret, try to adapt the method into something else and tell us THAT method instead of HIS.
Ex. Deep Fried Corn
Original- Coat in butter and deep fry at 450
Adapted- deep fry at 200, coat in butter, deep fry again at 450
...just a thought...
BTW that Deep Fried Corn I just made up, it`s not a actual recipe...duh...
have any of those tools =(
After a long search I have found a 64th Half dollar so I'll try it
I want to try the other way sometime though! Just gotta find a silver quarter.
I've seen videos of people using hammers on the silver ones but they always get lopsided.
By the way, thanks for this video. I saw silver coins sold on ebay like this and was wondering how they got the letters to show. The guy told me to buy one and figure it out for myself. I didn't buy one of course. lol
When you do the spoon technique the letters wont show on the outside. It'll just be a smooth silver ring.
Best places to look are, the pawn shop, numismatist shops(coin collectors) or one of those sleezy "we buy gold and silver" joints. A few months ago, you could still find "poor" grade coins for under $2. As a final try, check the coin sorter machines. They will kick out silver coins, along with foreign currency. And many people will just leave them, thinking they're not worth enough to trouble over.
Never fear. you have that nice ring mandrel. If it's a little small, you can always aneel, then stretch a few sizes.
You are DEAD RIGHT on softening copper. Many people don't realize, cause they only work the big and dirty metals, instead of small and shiny. When you shock-quench copper and copper alloys, it leaves them SOFTER not harder. Has to do with grain growths.
On a technical note, consider covering the punched surface with a touch of nail polish(it's just the one edge) or lacquering the whole thing. Many MANY people react with the copper. It'll turn the ring and their fingers colors. Not so much a problem with the Nickle rings, or silver versions, but the modern cored coins, yes. Also fun fact that the US nickle is the only one of the normal circulating coins currently made that's still worth more as scrap than as a coin($0.05 vs $0.0500305). All silver us coins are worth many times their face value, in scrap.
Nice punch and die set! Never thought of using one with a PLASTIC cover! all mine have always been steel over steel. I guess that does aid in visual lineup of the piece to be punched!