Step 3: Get the code and program!

Here's the source code. If you have the v1.1 TV-B-Gone, you can find my older code on github

unzip the files and do:
cd supernikon
If you are programming a fresh attiny, make sure you:
make burn-fuse
with the programmer plugged into your target board.

When you are ready to program the firmware do:
make program.

Insert the chip into your TV-B-Gone and enjoy your fabulous new remote!
or put the programming header on the bottom side.
I've been planing a similar hack, to make a device send a pre-programed sequence of IR commands with long (half an hour) delays.<br><br>I hadn't realized that the ISP didn't work and that's going to put a kink in my plans to easily reprogram it occasionally.<br><br>How did you develop your firmware? Did you just build a tv-b-gone on a bread board? Or did you pop the chip out every time you needed to program it?
I verified, both by experiment and with Limor herself, that to use the programming header, you have to lift one leg of the output resistor. It would be possible to tie it to a switch, but after a while it might get ugly. The circuit board only costs $5, plus you would have to buy a resonator, and if you don't have them, the programming headers. That is sufficient to make a target board for the attiny
I do indeed pop the chip out when I reprogram it. If you don't need super compact, you could switch (or unplug) the LEDs for programming (I think.) You can probably get the canonical answer over at the adafruit forums.<br><br>Thinking about it now, with the 1.2 design, you would only have to switch out the output pin of the processor (where it ties to the base of the PNP transistor. and the programming should work. <br><br>Caveat, my information about the programming not being possible is based on the 1.1 design, and the single output may put programming within range.<br>

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Bio: I'm a technology professional, photographer, interactive sculpture artist and all around geek! I love making things and teaching others to create.
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