Step 1: Materials and Tools
One 55 gallon oak barrel
Bar sink (mine is a 15" hand pounded copper sink)
Faucet (I used an oil-rubbed brass single lever faucet)
Copper roofing nails (If using a copper sink)
Silicon sealer (my sink came with a bronze colored silicon)
Sink drain (my sink came with a drain)
Metal support straps to hold the door wood together
Door hardware (hinges, handle and latch)
Water in connectors (this will vary on your water source)
Plastic drain extender
Connectors to go from drain extender to sump pump connector
Hose drain (I used a sump pump tubing)
ABS glue if using the plastic drain to sump pump hose as in Instructable
#8 3/4" stainless screws to secure the wood staves to the metal rings
000 steel wool to sand the metal rings for painting
Metal paint primer (for barrel rings)
Metal paint (for barrel rings)
Painters masking tape
Deck stain/water repellent (for oak staves)
Electric Drill with titanium drill bits for drilling metal rings and sink if necessary
Jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade to cut oak
Miter or other hand saw with fine-tooth blade
Screwdriver or screw bit for drill
Pliers for shaping the metal rings and hinges to fit wood curvature
Crescent wrench(s) for attaching hose connectors to faucet.
Clamps for securing wood while assembling the door
Step 2: Locating a wine barrel
I bought mine for around $40 from a place that makes all kinds of products from barrels but they also sell them whole. Another source is www.winebusiness.com/classifieds/usedbarrels/. New barrels can be pretty pricey but used ones run anywhere from free to about $65.
Step 3: Choose your sink and faucet
Step 4: Securing the wood staves
I secured this wood by drilling two different holes through the metal ring and underlying wood. I used #8 3/4" stainless screws. The hole through the metal was just large enough to allow the screw through but I drilled the wood with a smaller bit to just create a pilot hole to prevent the wood from splitting.
I placed a screw above and below each wood stave that was being removed. I did this process for both the door access and the opening to bring in and remove water at the bottom.
Step 5: Create the opening for the door and water
For the opening for the water access and drain, I didn't care about the wood that would be removed, so I just used a drill to make a pilot hole for the jigsaw to make the cuts. I did however want to save the door pieces, so the hand saw gave me a clean finish.
I used the top and bottom of two of the metal rings to create a clean straight line. Determine the size of your door. Remember that the barrel consists of vertical strips of wood that can vary slightly in width. Before you cut, locate the ends of the staves at the beginning and end of your opening.
The nice thing with these boards, is you only have to make horizontal cuts and your vertical lines are formed by the staves for a nice clean look.
If you want to have a door versus just an opening, save the wood staves.
Step 6: Assembling the door
While making this one I discovered that these wood staves don't necessarily want to go back to the same shape that they were when connected to the barrel. I used metal strips found in the hardware/roofing section at the hardware store. There are a variety of sizes available. For me, I had to trim off a couple of inches with a hack saw to fit this door.
The wood will want to curve so slightly bend the metal strips and connect them together, checking the opening as you go to get the correct curvature of the door to the barrel. As you can see by mine, it took some shims to get a closer match.
An alternate method would be to connect the metal strips through the top once you cut the opening for the sink and connect the metal strips while the barrel is still intact. (A method I would do if I make another one.)
Step 7: Sink and faucet cut outs
I made a pilot hole on the inside portion of the sink to get the jigsaw blade into to cut out the sink. You may have to make a few pilot holes if you are not able to turn the jigsaw at the corners of the sink opening.
I used a hole saw to make the opening for the faucet. With the single-lever style, I cut a 1 1/4" hole for the faucet.
A few boards towards the front of the sink were not glued well, so I secured them together with a couple of nail/staples as shown.
The barrel tops are usually glued well but this barrel was not as secure as I would have liked.
Step 8: Prepping the outside
I first sanded the metal rings with a #000 steel wool to remove any rust or film. I taped above and below each metal ring with painters blue masking tape, applied a metal primer and four coats of the black satin paint to the rings.
I used metal primer and a latex-based Rust-o-leum satin black paint for the rings.
Make sure that you choose paint that does not react with galvanized metal as some oil based paints can.
I used a deck stain/water repellent on the outside of the barrel with no pre-sanding to allow better absorption of the stain.
Allow to dry overnight before attaching the sink and faucet.
Step 9: Attaching the sink and faucet
I then applied a bead of the bronze silicone along the edge of the sink opening on the barrel and faucet opening and placed the sink and faucet into the openings.
Nail the copper roofing nails into place and then place additional silicon along the outer flange of the sink, faucet and the top of the barrel for better waterproofing.
The copper nails will weather and get a nice brown patina color once out in the elements.
Allow the silicon to completely dry before connecting water source.
Step 10: Attach the door hinges and hardware
Make sure that you choose something that will allow you to follow the slight curve of the door or are short enough to allow them to be straight.
First attach the hinges to the door.
Align the hinge to the outside of the barrel to allow the door to open freely.
(You may need to sand or slight trim the door or opening to allow the door to close/open easily.)
I placed a couple of door stops to help keep the door flush to the barrel when closed.
I chose to place a latch on the door (which is actually a window sash latch) but again, the type of hardware you use is totally up to you and the look you want.
Step 11: Water hookups and drain
I will only have cold water coming in, so I capped off the hot water side.
Use an extension to the sink drain. Add pipe adapters to connect flexible hose and then the flexible hose (sump pump hose) for drainage. I used a plastic strap to prevent the hose adapter from coming off the pipe extension.