Step 20: Output Using Exported Images

Save your work often. You've been doing that, right?

Now we're essentially done, and we should figure out how we're going to output our board for
admiration on web pages, review by peers, transfer to physical PCB material, and so on.

One way to output the board is to "export" an image.

<p>Thanks for taking the time and putting it together. Very, very helpful.</p>
Amazing,very helpful tutorial<br>thank you<br>
<p>eagle is so bad, there are no worse programs. I cannot delete traces I just placed. and the resolution is horrible. despite there is room for 4 or 5 lines, I can only draw 2 lines. I cannot draw lines between 2 pads cuz of this crappy resolution. and when I want to draw a line of a pad, it sometimes select totally different pads. There are so many yellow to be routed lines I can barely see what im doing, and when i disable them I cannot see nothing. I cannot believe how bad this program is made</p>
<p>There is a worse program - Fritzing! Sadly, Adafruit has even started using it.</p><p>Eagle has some very Germanic characteristics, which people refer to as quirky.<br>Some of the free programs tied to/issued by PCB manufacturers are some of the <br>easiest to actually use AND allow you to do unusual things. Then you can convert them in to common PCB formats using a piece of software from Robot Room called Copper Connection PCB Editor &gt;<a href="http://www.robotroom.com/PCBs-Breadboards.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.robotroom.com/PCBs-Breadboards.html</a>&lt;.</p><p>I actually am involved the design of military robotics and infra-red systems and often use low-end PCB layout software rather than firing up the Credence software we also use.</p>
<p>I am sorry you're frustrated, but you can do all the things you're complaining about.</p><p>It's just like a new language, you have to learn the new rules:</p><p>To delete traces made with &quot;Route&quot; use the &quot;Ripup&quot; function located to the right of the &quot;Route&quot; button.</p><p>To delete traces made with &quot;Wire&quot; use the &quot;Delete&quot; function.</p><p>When you place a trace with &quot;Route&quot; it deletes the &quot;Unrouted&quot; yellow line, if you put a trace with &quot;Wire&quot; you add a new trace and you should change it's name to the net name you wish, otherwise it's just a piece of cooper unconnected and it will give you DRC errors. </p><p>You can also change the grid and resolution to whatever you want. I built boards with 6 layers and traces/gaps of 6mil and it works fine.</p><p>There are a lot of tutorials about this.</p>
<p>I wish i could give you 1000 likes.....</p>
<p>Hello,</p><p>This instructable is really helpful. Though I have a question - If you add polygons to the PCB design it makes it multilayered right? Then how to etch the design onto a copper board?</p>
<p>No, you can have polygons even on a single sided board.<br>There's an example in this instructable, and another here: </p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Single-Sided-Really-Bare-Bones-Board-Arduino-in-EA/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Single-Sided-Reall...</a></p><p>You do have to watch out for the polygon being &quot;broken apart&quot; by the other traces more than in a multi-layer design.</p>
<p>Did it.. Great tutorial.. I have had trouble changing diodes, still couldn't figure out how to implement correct size diodes.. any tip how i can select 2mm diodes on grid? If i get to know that I will print and start the etching process.. :) Again thanks for sharing great tutorial. </p>
Your article mentioned here and I hope to be able to reprint my personal blog: http: //pcb.ui3g.com The Printed Circuit Industries Service, Product and Resource Guide, ok?
<p>A great tutorial. If are interested in electronic circuit design, I&rsquo;d like to share you with another useful tutorials <a href="https://easyeda.com/Doc/Tutorial/" rel="nofollow">https://easyeda.com/Doc/Tutorial/</a> it will be helpful to your study.</p>
I can't thank you enough for this excellent tutorial. I thought I'd never get the hang of it and it's not a very intuitive program. Do consider turning these tuts into a book. Now hopefully one last question : after drawing the ground plane with the ratsnest command I got a nice big plane but also a bunch of tiny little islands that serve no purpose but to make the board look dumb. I tried erasing these islands with the rip up but it just ripped up the closest vital wire instead. Is there away to zap these tiny little island ground planes ? Thanks MUCHO !!
you can draw lines and/or rectangles in the tRestrict or bRestrict layers, which will prevent the polygon fill from entering those areas. You can see this in the PCB that goes with https://www.instructables.com/id/Single-Sided-Really-Bare-Bones-Board-Arduino-in-EA/ - I use it to prevent copper between the pads of the bottom-side SMT capacitors. Note that the restrict layers are not displayed by default; you'll have to turn them on in the layer menu (they might get turned on automatically when you draw on them, too.)
<p>I've added text to the bRestrict using the vector font, but when I generate my gerber files, the text isn't there. Shouldn't the gerber file containing the bottom copper layer include the bRestrict layer and then show the missing copper when viewing that gerber file with the gerber viewer?</p>
It mysteriously fixed itself. Thanks.
<p>great tutorial but how do you deal with tracks present in the schematic that don't appear on the pcb layout? </p>
<p>I Thing MikrC is so easy for PCB Designing</p><p>Here is step by step tutorial for LED Flasher Circuit PCB Design in MikroC</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-your-EAGLE-schematic-into-a-PCB/?commentflag=1414769132351#C6H4AAYI1XEJJFX" rel="nofollow">PCB Designing: How To Design a PCB (Step by Step &amp; Pictorial Views) </a></p><p><br></p>
<p>You have just taken me from dreading making the PCB from the schematic to having one done in a flash. Excellent instructable on taking the somewhat intimidating Eagle CAD and teaching the basic functions on the PCB aspect of it. Thank you.</p>
<p>hey plz help me</p><p>when i print pcb from printer the size of ic lage will be different in pdf and on paper </p><p>.How i set the sizes.</p>
<p>hey plz help me</p><p>when i print pcb from printer the size of ic lage will be different in pdf and on paper </p><p>.How i set the sizes.</p>
<p>hey plz help me</p><p>when i print pcb from printer the size of ic lage will be different in pdf and on paper </p><p>.How i set the sizes.</p>
The most helpful tips for me ever saw!! <br>Thanks for writer!!!
How can I mirror the whole board?
Group the board and then, assuming you're in the Light version of Eagle, move it farther aside from the origin of the layout, (spot with the plus sign that doesn't move when you click it) release it, switch to mirror tool and then right click in the board and then click mirror:group
hey <br>Nice eagle tutorials. I learned how to create custom parts from scratch. <br>I just now want to learn how to create board from schematic. Tutorial is nice. <br>I was wondering if I could have &gt;.sch file so that I can practice along as I go through tutorials <br>Thanks in advance
Good point; I'm surprised no one has asked before! <br>https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6dMB5dovDUZUDh4YzBzVEVHTUk <br> <br>
How do you go about printing it so that you can just take it from the printer to the PCB (and the entire etching process)? What I mean is, when you're all said &amp; done with your PCB design, how can I effectively take my board, print to a sheet a paper, and do a toner transfer basically? Whenever I go to Print as .PDF, even with Solid and Black checked off, it still comes out with less-than desirable outcome. Any way that the board can be simplified, or is there a program that can take a ready to go .brd and turn it into a print ready file?
&nbsp; &nbsp;!!! HELP !!! &nbsp; !!! HELP !!! &nbsp; !!! HELP !!! &nbsp; !!! HELP !!! &nbsp; !!! HELP !!!<br> <br> I found your schematic tutorial only last night and its AWESOME !<br> <br> But trying this one but when i click on the next step after this one there is no step and its replaced with the below message and a load of HTML Coding !!!<br> <br> Please excuse me, that was very impolite! - javax.servlet.ServletException: javax.servlet.jsp.JspException: ServletException in '/common/instructable.jspx': ServletException in '/pages/explore/type/instructable_body.jsp': java.lang.reflect.InvocationTargetException<br> Exception<br> <br> Please help as your tutorials are out of this world and nice and simple for a beginner like me to start learning how to use EagleCADsoft !!!!<br> <br> Any Idea's ??
I am new to Cadsoft Eagle and having trouble with designing PCB. I used CAM processor tool to make PCB, but I only want the tracks to remain after etching and rest of the copper to disappear! Please tell me how can I do this! <br> <br>I want a PCB like this, only tracks. <br> <br>http://www.veys.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/pcb_howto_drilled_bottom.jpg <br> <br>Plz help! Thanks in advance!
Your a Ledgend.<br>This is exactly what I needed to know from start to finish.<br>Thanks heaps.....<br>David
Nice tutorial!<br>I've been designing boards and schems using Eagle for a while now, but where I am coming unstuck is finding someone who can make a PCB from the board file that Eagle produces. <br>My main board maker can't use the Eagle files, he only wants files in Protel (Protrax etc) format.<br>My alternative boardmaker also can't use the Eagle files and is asking for Gerbers.<br>So far I have not been able to find any program that can convert Eagle files to either of these formats.<br>I did contact one boardmaker who said they could produce a board for me using the Eagle files, but they wanted something like $150 to make one board!!<br><br>Any suggestions?
You might try silvercircuits.com. They are much cheaper and can produce boards directly from the eagle files.
EAGLE can produce gerbers pretty easily; there is even an instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Professional-PCBs-almost-cheaper-than-making-them-/<br>Various PCB vendors (Sparkfun's BatchPCB, DorkbotPBX, Itead, Seeed) provide the .CAM files that produce the right gerbers with the expected filenames for that vendor...<br>I can recommend Dorkbot for small boards; helpful community, nice boards. I think they'll actually take .BRD files, but it's generally better to prepare the gerbers yourself so that you get the content you want on the silkscreens (names, values, and outlines are separate decisions!) http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order<br><br>
Amazing,very helpful tutorial<br>and i have a small addition here<br>to export the PCB for toner transfer <br>view only (pads,vias,bottom layer)<br>then print from file menu<br>and mark (mirror,black,solid)<br>thanks
Hello,<br>Great tutorial, much faster than the web-based videos.<br><br>What are your recommendations on production houses? I googled PCB fabrication and found a dozen or so shops that provide their own cam files. Rates range from $50 to $150 for a dozen or more 2&quot;x2&quot; 2 layer boards. Before I plunk down that much for a mistake, wondering if you have any favorite places?<br><br>thx,<br>p<br>
Now that the autoroute has destroyed my hours of work, how do I undo it ? Undo doesn't work !!!
You can undo the autorouter. Click the ripup icon, then on the top toolbar click the little traffic light icon. A window will pop up asking if you are sure. Hit Yes.
You can't undo the autorouter. It's a good idea to save your work often, especially before large changes like autorouting. The autorouter should not have destroyed any of the manual routing you did; it just added a bunch of &quot;other&quot; traces. You can get rid of individual traces, or sections, or everything, with &quot;ripup&quot;, but there isn't specifically a &quot;ripup the bits you just autorouted.&quot;
using this instructable for creating a guitar pedal with friends.<br>thank you for sharing
Great instructable man. I just finished reading the &quot;how to draw a schematic&quot; one and loved it. you helped me figure out what i was doing wrong. :) <br> <br>I sure would like to be able to download that hobby.dru file, but the site keeps telling me I need to be logged in. (I am logged in, or else I wouldnt be able to post this) Anyway, guess I will have to follow your instructable and just make my own :)
Try the hobby.dru file on this page. <br> <br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-hobbyist-PCBs-with-professional-CAD-tools-by-/
Thanks! I dont remember how I did it, but somehow I was eventually able to get it. the only problem I had after using your hobby.dru file was that I coudlnt change the shape of my pads. so some pads on transistors violated the rules. I ended up exporting my drawings into coreldraw format and trimmming them there. <br>
if only i could put ten stars well done now in 30 minutes i know how to make boards in eagle thanks
How do you get it to incorporate contacts that are connected to gnd? Everytime I try, it excludes those areas (I am using your design rules file). Thanks -- your instructables have been VERY helpful!
make sure that both the signal and the polygon have the same name (ie &quot;gnd&quot;) The easiest way to name the signal is to attach one of the &quot;gnd&quot; symbols to it, and for the poly it's easiest to use the &quot;poly gnd&quot; to create it, but you can also name them with the &quot;name&quot; command/button.
Every time I try to rename a signal path or pad, in board view, it says &quot;Cannot Back Annotate ...Change in Schematic View&quot; So after many attempts I finally manage to change one of these items names to &quot;Base&quot; , in schematic view, since it connects to a transistor base. It prompts me with an invite to connect Base and Gnd, I respond &quot;no&quot;. The adjacent signal path which I do want renamed gnd, keeps on resetting to the name Base and won't let me change it to gnd...no matter how many times I try. Worse yet, when I do the gnd plane, both the Base and Gnd signals get tied to the plane. It's driving me nuts.
The only thing I can see is that I have some very faint phantom lines connecting the Base and GND traces. These are lines I believe left over from a Rip Up repair. I'm guessing the program still thinks these items are connected.
I didn't realize that what I actually had was thermals, so the pads should appear a little bit different under a closer view than in the pictures above. Thanks again!
Ah. Yes, I have thermals turned off in my init files, which makes my normal behavior different than the default behavior. I should be more careful about that!

About This Instructable




Bio: Middle aged geek username also works at yahoo.com, mac.com, comcast.net, wharton-10.arpa
More by westfw:Visualizing EAGLE Edits with a Gerber Viewer Make a Double CD/DVD Case From a Single Sheet of Paper Single Sided Really Bare Bones Board Arduino in EAGLE. 
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