So I was using these chisels on the lathe and one day it hit me! I can use the wood lathe to turn new handles and have a perfect set of incredible chisels! This instructable outlines how I am turning my chisels, it may be wrong or right but it seems to work for me. So how can you too turn really nice handles on the lathe, well let's get started with a list of materials/tools:
1. Wood Lathe (kind of obvious but I list it just in case)
2. 1.5 to 2" square piece of hardwood at least 12" long (I used Cherry because it is what I have a ton of)
3. 3/4" Copper pipe coupler, one of these will make two ferrules
4. Lathe chisels (I used parting tool, gouge, and skew)
5. Calipers
6. Drill Chuck for lathe
7. Appropriate sized drill bit 3/8" in this case
Well, do you have everything ready? If so let's get started.
Mark the center of the ends with the straight edge and a pencil. Once you have the centers marked take a punch and make a small hole in the end for the tail stock. One the end that will go on the headstock I like to tap the spur center into the end for a good bite. Now mount the block on the lathe and pull up the tool rest, please at this point I like to point out to always wear face protection and a dust mask when turning.
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Signing UpStep 1: Rouging the blank round
So look at the second picture, see the size of the shavings, if you are not getting nice clean shavings and are getting more dust you need to sharpen your chisels. There is a ton of information on the internet about sharpening lathe chisels so try a google search. If I get more time I may post an instructable on how I sharpen mine.
So one you are round you need to start thinking about your ferrule, the ferrule is a metal sleeve to go on the end of the handle where the chisel is to prevent splitting oft he wood. I am using copper because I had it and it is easy to work with and looks really nice buffed up. So at this point use your calipers to measure the inside diameter of your ferrule, you will use this measurement to size the tenon on the end of the blank for the ferrule to go onto. Once you have your tenon sized a little over tap the ferrule onto the blank using a mallet or block of wood. Once the ferrule is on tight mount the block back on the lathe to finish your handle.










































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Can you use other materials in a wood lathe, like plastic or metal?
I also use my tools as mallets sometimes, so I find no need to sand to ultra-high gloss and use a special finish. To me, putting a nice finish on a tool like that is akin to getting a monster truck detailed. You can do it, but why waste the effort?
I added the lost step, thanks for the heads up on that, I just glossed right over it.
I've also cut the business end of the handle into a slight conical shape and cross-cut it so that when I add the metal band (final step), it's making a really firm grip on the tool.
The fire is a little excessive, probably, but it's something they did back in the day when there wasn't as many options. Anyway, most of these tools are loaded in compression, so less is probably fine. Oh---and I read about the fire method mainly in the context of making handles for files. For that, it's a great trick because the tang is relatively short and the life of the tool is not very great.
I am philosophically opposed to adhesives, in general. In certain situations, an adhesive can be the best choice, but I see a lot of DIY-willy-nilly use of glue and tape. Often, adhesives lead to a very short-term solution followed by failure and a sticky residue. In this case, I think a mechanical connection will be best. You may eventually wear out the chisel or damage the handle. If it's glued on, it may be an enormous amount of effort to fix it.
Anyway, nice documentation. Nice to see a project that stands on its own. Lately I've been seeing more stupid-trick type projects and projects half documented with a single video, or with just a few pictures. Thanks for putting in the work and making a complete instructable.
It does seem that I missed a step there. When I get home this evening I will take a picture and write up some narrative on it. Basically I clamp the tool into my bench vice tang up and then use a soft faced mallet to "tap" the tool onto the tang.
Really very nice instructable, I also use this method to the rings at the ends the sleeves of my turning tools, the advantage is that it be copper or in brass and that this does not rust. Question: Sometimes I machine of old files, to make my wood turning tools, (and sometimes for my metal lathe with old limes quality), not the stuff Chinese, dozen sold to on Ebay !
What have you to make your big ream "Gouge" because it is very thicker, anyway a Congratulations, and good continuation!
greetings.
Luky.
I am not making the tool itself, for those large gouges though they are forged from a piece of steel into that shape. Other gouges are milled from a round bar. Not a metal worker myself so I will leave that up to the experts.
Ha, Ok, I thought it was you who made it is anyway a good job, it makes you a beautiful set, I made them myself, I May Machinist's my work, I am Artisan, and I turn the wood for my pleasure, I also made a special system for sharpening gouges in the grinder, you must know, and it makes you a nice clean round in the end tool because it is very hard to sharpen Gouge a regular basis;
Regards,
Luky.
I make a skew chisel from an old file, For the handle I used the leg from a fancy table. I turned off some of the larger parts, it is a bit bumpy to hold, but I like it. I call it Excalibur.