As we know (primarily based on the experience of our ancestors) black locust is extremely durable wood, in every sense: solid, hard, Non-susceptible to decay and insects, long lasting and tough. On that basis by many as a perfect wood for bows. The answer is there somewhere in between, yes and no. Black locust tree is very specific in terms of bow's, because of the special way of making and because of the mechanical properties of wood. I'll try to explain in this tutorial that details the process of development can and critical points in it that need special attention.
First, to clarify the properties of black locust wood .... Wood species vary in compresional tension and endurance. Example: If you take a piece of wood in the shape of the rod and bend it into a semi-circular outer part of his suffering, increasing its length stretching and compression of the inner and reducing their length. This phenomenon is happening at such a small scale that is invisible to the naked eye but it is a crucial factor in making bows. If the piece of wood we continue to bend the will inevitably come to a permanent deformation of the play. What happens in a kind of strong tension (most sawmills): As their name suggests, their fibers better than stretching suffer compaction. Because the outer part to withstand bending but on the inside to collapse, ie. zgnjeÄiÄe because the wood fibers are not as able to withstand compaction, compression. With heavy compression types (mainly conifers) are going the other way around: since the fibers are more resistant to compaction it will stand on the inside of the suffering compaction but will break a piece to the part that suffers stretching outside. Very rare species collapse at the same time, are equally strong and compression and tension. The most imbowsant factor here is the thickness of the piece that moves: 1mm thick sheet of veneer can bend the roll and not crack because the thin, but with increasing wall thickness increases the problem that we're talking. The first picture explains this current exhibition.
Where is all this locust? He has very good compression, the fibers well suffer compaction. But the tension is even better so that experimental piece still hurt by the compression of fibers. The only solution (except for the few exceptional situations) is to hold a piece of black locust as onions, thin and wide, to reduce the negative effects of compression on the belly of fiber ports. Black locustalso has another problem (in a row) that will always inflict LUKAR problem: if too overwhelming the fibers of the stomach, we compress them too much it will be irreversibly damaged, and this will be evident in the form of stretch marks on the cross piece. For other types of fibers are more or less recover if zagibamo piece too, but at a certain place at Locust NE-he does not forgive mistakes when making such a different kind. One of the first tips: press not too many pieces, the motion must be spread on the entire length of the working harbor.
Making a play for the port must be sufficiently dry. It is understood that about 10% moisture wood. It can be measured by carpenter moisture meter (unreliable method determines the most part wood surface moisture) or holding a piece of black locust in the area where the humidity is 55% and the air temperature is 20-30 C (operating with the U.S. Institute for wood) until you stop losing weight (weight control digital kitchen libra ). Black locust should be split before drying or hatchet and other tools of awareness to the approximate dimensions of the port to be dried as soon as possible, DO NOT REMOVE BARK! We can expect a dry piece somewhere in a month, a story of many years of drying the ordinary fiction, because libra is that tells us everything. One of the most optimal design for bow black locust is pyramidal. What does that mean-bow has a narrow handle and a non-working, thick enough not moving and narrow enough to be comfortable to grip. Handle is made from a light switch on the arm of the future port-they should be in the final state of at least 5 cm wide. Means that the rough shape before drying can leave them at 6 cm wide, we reduce the rest when it starts production. Length with handle day-to-spoke crossings could be about 20 cm. The total bow length should not be less than 1.7 m. Short tapering directly from the widest part of the areas that should be no more than a wide 10-12mm in final form. Because of their shape and are therefore called pyramid bow. One of the advantages of the pyramid bow is its nearly constant thickness of the arms (we explain when we get that far).
When the piece is dry first stage is peeling. It is easily removed by knife . Coarse tore it to pieces. I say rough-no need to be too careful in tree bark (unless no nodes) as the first layer of wood under the bark, sapwood, waste from the game: a few sapwood rings and only have a pith beneath it that we need to create port . Around the node we remove sapwood maximum caution.
In locust is important to be careful not to shut up because it tends to clogging. I usually do this surgery with axe (in this case keser) , rarely with knife . As we approached quite close to the required dimensions continue to further reduce crude scalpel (to clog it and do not break tree nodes, we have less work using files). It is very important that the edges are not sharp bow, ideal roundness is to be shaped roughly pea. While working on this piece we encounter unexpected difficulties: three dead node, fallin out one. Depending on the position of the change and its threat to the onion. A node that is located at the middle branch is almost harmless, just clean it and leave a hole in the handle of the node is potentially dangerous, we look to be removed during the operation.
We see that after cooling everything is in place.
When we are happy with the port at full draw we approach finish. We start sanding from size 120 to 320 for example. When sand out we Double check all surfaces for cracks, folds of compression, traces of the tools. If everything is in order (in this case it is) we start put on melted pork fat that is absorbed into the wood and makes it waterproof. She also gives a nice brownish tint. After the layer of fat, layer of wax is next that spreads over the entire surface( we are using hair drier ) until the entire bow is covered with a layer of wax that it also protects against moisture. I think that the process is not so important, it is easy to explain and therefore is not pictured. As the new owner wanted the app back to port we added it.
Bow is than covered with a layer of clear coat finish...
All these layers will protect bow from insects, moisture and it will last longer, clear coat isn't traditional finishing touch but it helps bow to last longer and prevents over dry'ing