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I like to take macro (micro) shots. And for this reason I need a light. It is because I want ti use ISO 100. And I need greater possible DOF. And therefore F should be 16.... til 32. At normal sunny day photo is black. If you Have not artificial light.
Answer is a flash. Strong light. Fast light. To freeze movements. It shall be perfect!
So,  I need to buy a flash.
Normal flashgun  - illuminate from front and pictures are flat.
Ring Flash - "dedicated" for macro - the same story - pictures without deep.
Well, we need a light source from side and litlle above... about 45 degree. 
Twin flash!  Main from left and right to fill in...It has to be perfect!

I search web ... after days and tears, I conclude that I have not -  I will not be a Jack ass for  500 ... 800 ...1000 USD.

So I turn to proven DIY.
Two smallest flashes from China.. about 24 USD.
Two optical hot shoe from China...  about 14 USD.
A small Flashgun from E-bay... 25 USD... suited for ma A350.
Plate of Plexiglas 4mm and few hours in my corner.  A lens hood ...

All hand made in several hours.
Pictures worth a 1000 words. Specially the last two.

You always have a choice.. to choose "dedicated" "only for me" "special" ...Jack ass for 000 USD.

Sincerely, Yours.


Step 1: Basic Material

This part is very complicated. I have to draw a circles. The bigger one for the front and the smaller one for the back ring. Lens hood is conical. The I need to choose tool. The I have to cut a pancake form from Plexiglas (Lexan).  1 hour. And 13 minutes.

Step 2: Heat

Bending was made by blowing concentrated heat  (usually is enough to reach 150-180 C) .

Step 3: 6 Mm Holes.

Holes. Adjustment for nuts.

Step 4: Hinge

Plexi of 4mm thickness is reinforced wit another block of Plexi to reach thickness of about 12 mm. Then i drill a hole of 5,2 mm and use taps to finish the task.

Step 5: Small Adjustment Holes

On one side i drill 3 holes (you can choose to take more) on a diametrical order. To be able to set left flash on favorite position. Then a prepare it for 4 mm screws.

Step 6: All Parts

Lens hood (conical). Front and back pancake ring. Hinge, screws, opto hot shoes and very "sofisticated" flashes.

Step 7: Hinge

All parts.

Step 8: Hinge Assembling

Well. Assembling is a you full part. It can be seen that front ring is with biiger inside diameter and the back rin have a smaller inside diameter because the hood is conical. This is conical form is used to hold the parts tight to each other.

Step 9: Test

Well, it works.
a bit late, i know, but maybe others will be helped by this. This cheap (15 usd) flash has a built in slave with delay for preflash:<br>http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-pro-slave-flash-black-2-aa-42436<br><br>can also search for 'Godox 18'
Your Instructable primarily concerns mounting two flash units.&nbsp; How do you trigger them and how do you synchronize them with the shutter on your digital camera?&nbsp; Many digital cameras use a pre-flash to reduce red eye.&nbsp; This pre-flash makes standard slave flash triggers unworkable on many digital cameras.<br />
Sorry, i was not here at time... 1, I use standard flash mounted on hot shoe ... they are without pre-flash 2. Each small flashes on sides are mounted on optical hot shoes about 10 USD pc 3. Now I have also wireless trigger. And of course, simple old fashion flash wire PC connection. The last on is the best.
1, Main flash is mounted on camera.<br /> 2.&nbsp; You can see two opto-trigers on sistem!<br /> 3. In macro photo I use M- manual mode whithout preflash.<br />
My camera is not a DSLR and I do not have as many manual controls.&nbsp; 496 Euros is a little expensive for a twin flash (eBay link).<br />
Here is alterenative:<br /> <br /> http://cgi.ebay.at/Sony-HVL-MT24AM-Makro-Zwillingsblitz-/200469057681?cmd=ViewItem&amp;pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Foto_Camcorder_Blitze_PM&amp;hash=item2eace31091<br />
Excellent work! Where did you get those falconeyes 12m flash units? K.<br />
As I wrote --- on/from E-bay --- just search on web. <br />

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