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Tyree (he wears a tie and he has tires) actually smiles after he bumps into something (see video). Using an Arduino motor shield, he detects obsta...
I had to start somewhere--the wheels. I went to my local hardware and purchased two vacuum belts. I wanted these for traction--and they determined t...
He evolved as the design process started.
For every body piece, I needed dimensions before I could design the part in software. Even if the part is made from plywood and bottle caps, knowing ...
This is the base--could be plywood or plexiglass. Actually, this is a good starting point for design using 3d software--just a flat piece with rectan...
The side panels get more tricky--they need to fit the bottom piece and support the motor.
Screw the motor to the side panel.
Solder wires to the motor while it is easy to do so.
Print the front piece--with the bow tie raised.
Snap the side pieces onto the bottom piece and the bow tie onto the front. Push the wheels onto the shafts. Add a set screw into the wheel collar.
Paint the bow tie (my wife took care of this).
The back piece is very similar to the front, but it has a larger hole in the bow tie. Point the bow tie inward and press fit the tail motor into the ...
Use colorful rubber tubing (eyeglass retainers) for the tail (and eventually the smile). Push heat shrinkable tubing into the colorful rubber tubing....
Push the colorful tubing onto the shaft.
Take a needle with fishing line and push it through the colorful tubing (also through the heat shrink tubing you embedded earlier). Tie this in place...
Time to start assembling the guts. Program the Arduino and build the circuitry on the breadboard. I started with a Randofo tutorial and used code by...
Solder a 1K resistor to the led. Cover all exposed metal with heat shrinkable tubing (shrink it), and add jumper pins. Push the led into the front b...
Attach the battery clips--we're getting ready to close it up.
This is the top piece. The indentation in the back is not clever design, it is to avoid conflict with the inward facing bow tie (which was laziness o...
It should look pretty neat at this point.
Thread the solenoid into the front face piece. The front face piece should be printed at 50% infill (not too hollow) for strength. Put the little pi...
Drill two holes to support the rubber tubing smile. Tie the tubing with fishing line.
Drill holes on the inside upper extent of the smile.
Using a needle and fishing line, tie line to each end of the rubber tubing smile.
Thread the fishing line through the front of the face and into a hole (which you just now drilled). The two pieces of line should go through the tip ...
When the tension is right for the smile, use duct tape to hold the fishing line down.
Add a connector and heat shrinkable tubing to the smile assembly. Time for a small confession. This 12 volt solenoid doesn't have enough muscle to m...
Place a dome up front. Put velcro on the dome and on the top plate.
Use a long piece of velcro to tie the dome to the top plate. Do this on the other side and anywhere else you think it is needed.
Insert the front face with Velcro and install batteries. Secure the batteries with Velcro or they'll slide around.
Screw the toggle switch (master power on/off) into the back face. Secure everything with Velcro or clear packing tape.
Flip the switch on--and your happy little robot will explore his world.
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Posted:
Jun 2, 2012
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