To make Freeform Arduino,
I started out by connecting the VCC and AVCC pins, pin number 7 (the actual pin number, not the Arduino's digital pin 7) and pin number 20 of ATmega168/328, together. And I also joined GND pins, pin number 8 and pin number 22 of ATmega168/328 together.
(See pins map here
14-pin Female Receptacles
I soldered 14-pin receptacles to both sides of ATmega168/328 (with boot loader installed.) I set the angle of the 14-pin receptacles to lean a little bit outward to match the curvature of the canister cylinder shape.
The capacitor does not have polarity. So I soldered left pin of the capacitor to ATmega168/328 pin number 7. And soldered the right pin of capacitor to ATmega168/328 pin number 8.
The resonator has three pins, left and right are to be connected to XTAL1 and XTAL2 on ATmega168/328 (pin number 9 and 10). So, I soldered the right most pin of the resonator to pin number 10 (XTAL2), and used hookup wire to connect the left pin of resonator to pin number 9 of ATmega168/328. And used short hookup wire to join ground pin of resonator (middle pin) to ATmega168/328 pin number 8 (Ground).
I soldered six hookup wires to 6-pin Male header in this order (pointing the header out toward my right hand side).
And I soldered the hookup wires to ATmega168/328 as shown below.
ATmega168/328 Hookup wire FTDI pins
Ground Pin (8 or 22) Black GND
- - CTS (I connected this pin to GND pin above)
VCC Pin (7 or 20) Red VCC
RX Pin (2) White TX (out)
TX Pin (3) Green RX (in)
Reset Pin(1) Green DTR/RTS (I soldered 0.1uF ceramic capacitor
between male header and hookup wire.)
After all the wires connected, I used SuperGlue to glue the FTDI header to the end of 14-pin receptacles over pin number 1 and 28 of ATmega168/328.
I soldered 10K resistor in between VCC pin (pin number 7) and Reset pin (pin number 0) of ATmega168/328.
Note: For the details of how to make "Freeform Arduino" see the making steps of "Palm Arduino Kit", since it have the same schematics and it did not use PCB. There is no different in how to built steps between the First and this one, except Freeform Arduino does not have pin D13 LED and resistor.
Step 2: Straighten the pins
(NOTE: Do not straighten the "USB Freeform Arduino")
Step 3: Added Power and Ground
Step 4: Bring out the pins
(Note: You could bring out only digitals and analogs only and not omit the XTAL1, XTAL2, and GND pins - 8, 9, and 10 in this "USB Freeform Arduino" just like I did in "Palm Arduino II)
Now, we have Freeform Arduino ready for the next steps.