Step 2: Make Freeform Arduino

Picture of Make Freeform Arduino
To make Freeform Arduino,

I started out by connecting the VCC and AVCC  pins, pin number 7 (the actual pin number, not the  Arduino's digital pin 7) and pin number 20   of ATmega168/328, together. And I also joined GND pins, pin number 8 and pin number 22 of ATmega168/328 together.
(See pins map here)

14-pin Female Receptacles
I soldered 14-pin receptacles to both sides of ATmega168/328 (with boot loader installed.)  I set the angle of the 14-pin receptacles to lean a little bit outward to match the curvature of the canister cylinder shape.

0.1uF Capacitor
The capacitor does not have polarity. So I soldered left pin of the capacitor to ATmega168/328 pin number 7.  And soldered the right pin of capacitor to ATmega168/328 pin number 8.

16kHz Resonator
The resonator has three pins, left and right are to be connected to XTAL1 and XTAL2 on ATmega168/328 (pin number 9 and 10). So, I soldered the right most pin of the resonator to pin number 10 (XTAL2), and used hookup wire to connect the left pin of resonator to pin number 9 of ATmega168/328. And used short hookup wire to join ground pin of resonator (middle pin) to ATmega168/328 pin number 8 (Ground).

FTDI connector
I soldered six hookup wires to 6-pin Male header in this order (pointing the header out toward my right hand side).
And I soldered the hookup wires to ATmega168/328 as shown below.

ATmega168/328              Hookup wire         FTDI pins 

Ground Pin (8 or 22)         Black                      GND
-                                             -                              CTS (I connected this pin to  GND pin above)
VCC Pin (7 or 20)              Red                        VCC
RX Pin (2)                           White                      TX (out)
TX Pin (3)                           Green                      RX (in)
Reset Pin(1)                      Green                      DTR/RTS  (I soldered 0.1uF ceramic capacitor between male header and hookup wire.)

After all the wires connected, I used SuperGlue to glue the FTDI header to the end of 14-pin receptacles over pin number 1 and 28 of ATmega168/328.

10K Resistor
I soldered 10K resistor in between VCC pin (pin number 7) and  Reset pin (pin number 0)  of  ATmega168/328.

Note: For the details of how to make "Freeform Arduino" see the making steps of "Palm Arduino Kit", since it have the same schematics and it did not use PCB. There is no different in how to built steps between the First and this one, except Freeform Arduino does not have pin D13 LED and resistor.

Step 2: Straighten the pins (NOTE: Do not straighten the "USB Freeform Arduino")

Step 3: Added Power and Ground 

Step 4: Bring out the pins (Note: You could bring out only digitals and analogs only and not omit the XTAL1, XTAL2, and GND pins - 8, 9, and 10 in this "USB Freeform Arduino" just like I did in "Palm Arduino II) 

Now, we have Freeform Arduino ready for the next steps.

I intend to program my controller in an uno and then use it for final project like this , so what parts can be excluded ? I mean if I do not need to interface with a computer what is the bare minimum I need?
sath02 (author)  mohtaprashantrocks2 years ago
Thanks for your interest!

If you want to use Uno as the programmer to upload the sketch.
You could eliminate, (see schematic in Step 1)

3mm LED and 1K resistor (the debug LED),
6-pin FTDI male header,
0.1uF capacitor that connect between DTR pin on FTDI and RESET pin on Arduino

You probably need to add,
28-Pin DIP socket (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_526248_-1)
So you could remove the micro-controller from the circuit, reload the sketch (using UNO) in case you want to change or add some more stuff in your circuit.
Then insert it back to the 28-pin DIP socket.

Hope to see you project appears on Instructables in the near future!

Good luck,