This 'ible is based on the Pyle Audio PRJG45. The particular model you are working on may differ greatly from this one but if it's an LED projector then the basic process should be similar enough to follow.

I want to build a resin printer. I went shopping for a DLP projector and bought the Pyle Audio PRJG45, not realizing at the time that I had ordered an LED projector. Oops... Well, it projects with LEDs, and I already knew UV LEDs were available, so, how hard could it be to mod? Turns out, really easy.... except that it won't work the way I wanted it to.

The Hitch:
I had planned to replace the white LED with a UV LED. Problem is, these LED projectors use an LCD to tint the white light and form pixels, and LCDs don't let UV light pass through them. LCD displays only let through select color ranges and UV light falls outside of that. All is not lost however as Resin is available which cures in other wavelengths than that which defines the ultra-violet range, for instance, blue light curing (~460nm) resin.

The instructions that follow were written for replacing the original white LED with a UV LED, which I now understand will not work due to the limitations of the LCD screen!

Going Forward
My current plan for this project is to 1. Replace the current LED with a blue LED (not sure what wavelength just yet) and 2. to acquire and experiment with blue light curing resin... of course the specifics there may change as I haven't worked it all out yet. I'll update this 'ible soon with corrected instructions and a section on the science behind why the UV LED won't work as planned and options to work around that. I also plan to acquire and hack a dead-bulb DLP projector with a UV LED replacement, providing me with a system for the more traditional printing resins, which I will also create an 'ible for.

This is an LED based light/image projector. The mod should be as simple as opening the machine up, de-soldering an LED and soldering in a replacement. There are a few details to work out along the way but I'll cover those in the next few steps.

Instruments Recommended:

  1. Soldering Iron
    (I recommend at least an adjustable 60 watt iron like the one I linked to here.)
  2. Solder wiper pad or wire scrubber pad (yes, this works)
  3. A nice bright lamp or light source
    (I use a small arm lamp with an LED bulb)
  4. Tiny Screwdriver
    (Precision size with 4 inch long shaft, minimum.)
  5. Solder Sucker or de-soldering braid
  6. Grounding pad and or strap
    (You may be able to do without these but why take a chance?)
  7. A little patience

Materials Recommended

  1. Solder for electronics work
  2. A tube of heat sink goo

Parts Required
A 10 watt LED of the wavelength that you desire to work with.
(Make sure you can acquire or prepare resin that cures in that wavelength before you purchase the LED)

Let's get started!

Step 1: Taking the Top Off

The 'lid' of the projector is secured by screws in four deep insets in the bottom which pass through the body and screw directly into the lid. On my projector, one of them had been covered with a Quality Inspector's sticker. I also removed three other small screws from the bottom that may have attached to the heat sink. The screws under the lens definitely do not need to come out. The lid on the projector did not have any snap-together clips.

Once the lid is out of the way, you should see what the picture shows - the circuit board.
Three screws hold it down, IIRC. You will need to disconnect the tiny ribbon cable from the top rear edge but, DO NOT SIMPLY PULL! Pulling out the cable could damage it - I've done it before on other devices.To release the cable there is a small lever or clip (I don't remember what its called but it's the little dark bit on the white female port) just pop it up with a fingernail or something that won't damage the cable.

There are several power connectors that need to be removed from the bottom. Gently lift the board, then pull the plug out with your fingernails or some hobby pliers. These connectors can be fragile so don't pull on the wires. It may be wise to mark which connector goes to which port, just in case.

Congrats! Your idea looks very promising! Keep us updated on your progress!
<p>Thanks CP!<br>Unfortunately the UV option is something of a bust here but if you will re-read the intro, you will see that I have identified and am working on some alternatives.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I've dabbled in alot of tech and crafty skills but my personal mission is completing machine intelligence technology. I enjoy strong black coffee, programming ... More »
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