This Instructable is for a high power flashlight that uses a CREE XM-L LED and is powered by 3 D-cell batteries. Most of the parts are fabricated using a 3D printer and due to the size/shape, it is broken down into several segments. The wiring for this flashlight is very simple. It composes of the 3 batteries in series, connected straight to the LED via a rocker switch. There are no resistors in series due to the fact that there is enough resistance from the batteries (alkaline), wires, and switch.. and because the CREE XM-Ls are beastly LEDs. Granted, this is a very inefficient way to power these LEDs for various reasons, but it does work and is really bright... battery life might just be a bit lacking... and the light output may be a bit inconsistent from beginning to end of battery life. The middle segment of the body is sized to be the length of a D-cell battery so one can add extra segments to make it a 4+ battery light. This will of course require different wiring/electronics... not covered in this Instructable.
Step 2: Print UL1000 Components
2. LED Cap
Reason: Sometimes the raft will peel off the first couple of layers in the print.. This piece has fairly strict tolerances (don't want LED lens to be too loose or too tight).. so I leave the raft off. Sometimes the ends curl up, but they push back flat when fastening to the heat sink.
5. Body End Segment
Reason: Reduces the "mushrooming" of the bottom of the print. Without raft, you are likely to have a ridge at the end segment to end cap splice.
Step 3: Prepare LED module
Step 1: Strip/tin 1/4" of one end of each wire
Step 5: Turn on stove to medium heat and place thermal pad in frying pan/skillet. Watch closely and remove thermal pad when the solder paste melts. Depending on what types of solder/solder paste you use, you may be able to use the melting of the regular solder as an indication that the solder paste is about to melt.
Step 4: Assemble flashlight head (heat sink/LED module)
Step 9: Place lens optic over LED in the hacked up case pieces.