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Ultimate 500+ Headlamp, DANs work with my design

Ultimate 500+ Headlamp, DANs work with my design
In pursuit of a really good headlamp, without the need of paying a pile of money large enough to fill my apartment for it, I stumbled on dan´s idea for a headlamp and I liked it from beginning.
so I sketched my plans, invested and cashed in some friend-checks, and now it it is built.
This is what I use today when traveling down to the really big caves with the heighest ceilings :) and it works perfectly!
on request I made my own small instructable to take interested people through the process.

looking back on the costs of making this lamp, I managed (hand on heart) to get it down to:
LED´s  - 25$
Buckpuck driver - 30$ (shipping included)
Battery case - 3$
Some new batteries, 4 of them - 28$
The casing was for free - YES! YES! YES! - thx Robin!!!

which bring the cost down to 86$. I would say a GIGANTIC leap from the 300-400$ pricerange of a more serious headlamp from for example Petzl, Silva or Black Diamond.
And it really really REALLY does deliver the same amount of light as they do.

The only drawback might be that the batterylife for the expensive ones is longer, but if you switch up from standard AA to LIthium batteries ( as I will do ) you should get even more for the small amount of money you put into it.

 
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Step 1Design

Design
Bored close to unconsciousness, a day in class, I sketched on a piece of paper and came up with the design shown below. You can tell I am not an engineer because I write my mesurements in centimeters :)
The picture of how to draw the wires is just a copy from that of dan´s. but it was a good idea to repeat it to myself.
my thoughts on the design was that it should be as small as possible, but with enough aluminium around the LED´d to take away the heat. And to get a design that is not already on the market is not too bad either. :D

By a crazy coincidance
, i found when sketching, that a danish "1 krone" coin has if traced around with a pen, almost the exact same diameter of an luxeon 1w LED. So I used it for my drawings. :)

Working with CAD software ( the working part is done by my friend Robin ), my idea of an aluminium casing came one step closer to the real world, with a 3D model.

My thought was to leave room for a plexiglas sheet to protect the lenses from scratches, it would be held in place by 4 screws, or bolts or whatever. the plexiglas sits on a lowered ledge to not stick out and take the beating of rocks and dirt in my way, when crawling underground.

The smaller sketch of a lamp with only 2 LED´s is in the making today. :)
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28 comments
Aug 8, 2011. 6:36 PM-max- says:
try the t6 led in it
Jul 8, 2011. 10:11 AMshock003 says:
Great lamp. I am completing my third headlamp using two Rebel Tri-Stars. I ended up building my own Aluminum housing out of basic items for a hardware store and using Arctic Adhesive to 'glue' heat fins. I would however LOVE to buy one of your casings! Do you have a spec sheet any chance? like a CAD drawing?

Also, I plan to use 18650 batteries (two per LED). Do you use any protection circuits? Someone mentioned using these: http://www.all-battery.com/protectivepcbsforli-ionandli-polymerbatterypacks.aspx
not sure which one to use though. I could always use CR123 batteries (4 batteries total to make 12volts) worked perfect on my previous lamp using one Rebel Tri-Star.

Let me know how to order one of your casings! Love it!
Mar 4, 2010. 10:49 AMcpotoso says:
Good instructable, and very nice construction.  It is also a nicely done DIY thing.  But for lazier people...  http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489 (900 lumens--claimed!) for $80...
May 22, 2011. 5:07 PMcrobson says:
OR EVEN MORE LAZY. 4100 LUMENS it has the world record. and only 99dollars. my key board dont have a dollar sign...

http://www.wickedlasers.com/lasers/The_Torch-74-41.html

enjoy.. lol
May 22, 2011. 5:09 PMcrobson says:
and a battery life of 5 mins..

HA HA HA
Mar 11, 2010. 10:31 AMcpotoso says:
Good point!  (beam patterns for each led).
Mar 4, 2010. 3:09 PMbronxbomber says:
Cons of getting what you are suggesting.
Bad battery, will die.  Isn't water proof.
Beam isn't adjustable
hard to find in stock

Pros
bright for 1 led
great mount.
Hi/low/flash option

Yes that would be good for people that don't want to spend time building there own
Pros of doing it yourself
Different led options
Different beam patterns
Upgrade leds when you want. Or as prices drop
Different colors for each led

Cons
more expensive then above suggestion
Time consuming


Okay notes to add to your next version. 
Maybe add some fins to keep weight/heat under control.
Add a signal coiled wire at the end, instead of 2 wires so its easier to glue.
Or maybe a 3mm or 5mm female end so you can be sure nothing gets in, and incase you drop it wires won't be pulled from led.  It will just get unplugged if you use a female to maie plug.

You can think about some 18650 tab rechargeable (3.6v or 3.7v)
place them in parallel to extend time. Plus have 2 or so in series to meet the voltage requirements.  This is perfect for you as a head lamp but I am seeing it as a bike light. Especially the smaller one you have in the picture.  I think for what your using it for a blue or cyan color would be brighter.  Not sure

Thanks for posting it to give me a better idea.  Most of the money should and will always go to batteries. 
Mar 4, 2010. 8:55 PMbronxbomber says:
With battery's do some research, like how cold they can go and stuff like that. But here are a few links to help you out.
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-24.htm
http://www.batteryspace.com/

These could be good also for the smaller unit, that way you can figure out a heatsink for it since there only 10mm
http://www.luxeonstar.com/premounted-rebel-cool-white-led-on-a-10mm-square-base-180-lm-p-575.php
Dec 1, 2010. 11:54 AMmeydom says:
Hey
I just found your lamp and I am just amazed by your skill and use of technology!
I need 2 lamps: one for ski mountaineering racing and second for downhill biking.
Basically I am looking for as much light but for little weight and price. Can I fit 2 http://www.luxeonstar.com/Neutral-White-4100K-20mm-Tri-Star-Rebel-660-lm-p/mr-wn120-20t.htm on it? If so what type of battery do I need? Would the buckpuck http://www.luxeonstar.com/700mA-Ext-Dimmable-BuckPuck-Driver-PCB-Mount-p/3021-d-e-700.htm work?
Do you sell these Al casings?

Thanks in advance
Meydom
Jan 27, 2011. 6:02 PMypsifrog says:
You have some of these cases for sale?, where would I find that info,?
thanks and incredable build by the way
Jan 29, 2011. 6:46 PMypsifrog says:
I'm just starting to look into this, I know nothing about electronics, so it will be a bit before I'm ready. Wonder what price range for the casing, because of couse I'm cheap thats why I'm here, but in the end I should end up with the most badass head lamp for ice climbing, cycling, ect...
Oct 28, 2010. 3:51 PMmike0369 says:
Would this same setup work with brighter P& LEDs?
Apr 12, 2010. 2:43 AMkill.cactus says:
 Just curious, engineers use mm, right?
Oct 9, 2010. 7:42 PMSiress says:
We use any and all units. There is a *preference* to use SI units because, as the initialism implies, they're the International Standard; due mostly to the fact that they're in base 10 so the mathematics compute much more nicely. The numerical prefix, milli- centi- et al, only exists to make the notation easier to read...so they change based on the application. I work with surgical tooling, where I denote mm most of the time, and research nanotechnologies, where I am almost always denoting, gasp, nm. :P
Sep 14, 2010. 10:15 AMsteveo625c6 says:
That would be a CNC (Computer Numerical Controlled). I just started my new major as a Automated Machining Engineer, and in a few semesters will start using a CNC.
Apr 11, 2010. 7:18 PMplane phanatic says:
Very nice Instructable! Do you happen to have the CAD file for the aluminum casing?
Mar 22, 2010. 2:29 PMcdousley says:
i didnt know you had an instructable that's a bit much for me i think ill glue mine to the heatsink

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