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Ultimate Guide to Making a Cheap but Effective Aluminium Forge.

Step 4Melting Aluminium

Melting Aluminium
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This is pretty much the most dangerous part so have water near by and wear thick leather or welding gloves as well as safety glasses and make sure the area is well ventilated.

You're going to want to fire it up and put in your crucible.

I'd wait until the bottom of the crucible is red hot. (just a personal preference.)

Start out with small pieces of aluminum. (I had "pipes" from an old wind chime.) You could use cans but they tend to have a lot of slag. I'd wait until you have a nice quantity of aluminum before using cans.

You'll probably have a rough start so go slow. After you get a good quantity of aluminum it will be able to maintain a melting temperature and you can melt down large pieces in seconds. I have found an old knock off of a razor scooter in th back of my garage that has worn out it's usefulness. I found a new use for it's aluminum.

I have found covering the crucible with the top half of the empty propane tank helps keep the heat in and keeps things moving along nicely.

I had a troublesome piece of scooter that didn't want to release it's steel screw so I dunked it in the pool of molten madness and that half didn't come back. A mallet made short work of the obstructing piece of metal and allowed us to make a deposit in our crucible.

After you either fill up your crucible or run out of aluminum, you need to scrape off the slag. The slag will be floating on the top and will look a little different than the metal underneath.

We used a scrap piece of metal to scrape off the slag. We used the same scrap to make a hook to pick up the crucible and another piece to fit in the holes on the bottom of the crucible so you can easily pour it. You could use a small screw driver for this.

Make sure you have something to pour the aluminum into. I am just going to save them for later so I'm pouring them into one of those "mini muffin" tins just because they're small and fit in the crucible. You could just use an impression in wet sand or something. Muffin tins are faster. But don't expect to use them for muffins again.

Pour gently into the mold of your choice. IT IS HOT! WEAR PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT!

Because I'm impatient, I wait until the aluminum in the tins are solid then throw them into a can of water. The water may boil violently after a short delay. It is a sight to behold but dangerous.

You now have aluminum ingots.
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38 comments
Aug 18, 2008. 2:51 PMcacci says:
Could you melt salt (NaCl) like this?
Apr 21, 2012. 5:04 PMElFantastic0 says:
yes, you can; however, depending on your objective, you may achieve poor results. Melting salt in a steel crucible will contaminate the salt to some degree (and it tends to eat up the crucible). Also, like the prior response suggested, avoid melting wet salt. The issue isn't so much that the salt will explode. It might bubble a bit as it melts, but the majority of the water will be lost before the salt is even able to melt. The problem is if you're trying to melt a mixture of salts in correct proportions by mass (e.g. to make fluxes). Seemingly dry salt stored in permeable containers will contain a remarkably large amount of water. This will offset any attempts to weigh out the salt charges. The only way to fix this is to dry the salt by heating it. Last method i used was to alternately roast and grind the salt, though a prolonged roasting would work too.

I know these are old comments, but i reply for the sake of anyone who ever hits this via google (like i did)
Dec 6, 2008. 3:15 PMlasermaster3531 says:
sure. you could melt salt in this thing, but make sure that there's no i repeat NO water in the salt. if there is, it might explode. maybe use something else other than the steel crucible or use one only for salt, because it might do something weird if you try to melt something else like aluminum in it, because aluminum's melting point is higher than salt's boiling point. also, don't heat it red hot. use an IR thermometer and get it to 900 deg Fahrenheit, but not lower than 800 and not higher than 1000.
Mar 23, 2012. 5:24 AMcurvy77 says:
when i melted my aluminum cans (all i had and quite a bit =) ) there was lots of slag at the bottom and it fused with my crucible. pushed it down with stick adn squeezed out enough aluminum for 1' by 4' of aluminum ingot. slag at bottom normal?
Mar 7, 2010. 8:01 PMcoocooachoo568 says:
Truthfully, i dont like this ible. sorry. i thought it was REALLY cool, but it turned out to be not. i made this thing EXACTLY like this ible said, but in the end, it failed epically. i even had the same crucible as him.  nothing melts! I tryed aluminum cans to a small aluminum pipe. all that happens is the aluminum cans and pipe turn a goldish brown and never melt. is there any possible way to fix this? i have a top and everything. i dont see how this works. HELP!
Mar 2, 2012. 5:46 AMTwitcheth says:
How hot is your torch burning and what material (steel) is your crucible? Heat passes differently through different metals. Also a good way to tell if your torch is hot enough is simply if you see lots of flames theres not enough oxygen and not enough oxygen means it isnt burning as hot as it could be.
Nov 27, 2011. 6:21 PMcurvy77 says:
i dont know about using gas to melt it but wood and charcoal work great for melting it. mostly wood. i used the last of my embers from a steel knife craft and i melted 3 aluminum cans in a soup can before the flame went out. (i had a blow dryer to help fan the flames)
Jun 13, 2011. 3:19 PMdcarr1 says:
what gas you using?
Sep 11, 2011. 1:40 PMcoocooachoo568 says:
propane
Sep 30, 2010. 8:49 AMFirestorm_101 says:
I am just now getting into this sort of stuff but what may help is, in order to do larger pieces of metal like pipe, you must first already have a pool started. Cans are good but they must be denser otherwise they will oxidize and never burn. Cut off the ends, smash the tube flat, and fold it up into little square strips we'll call feedstock. It will be thick enough to melt effectively but not too big as to radiate all of its heat away. Good luck, hope this helped.
Dec 29, 2010. 8:20 PMcheeserdane says:
i Iook your lid idea and with the other half split the top banana style to start a lid that can still let precious air in, but reflect more heat back to the metal.
Jul 29, 2010. 8:00 AMdidgitalpunk says:
you say have water nearby. i would rather use a CO2 fire extinguisher or a powder one because if water gets in some of your metal, it vaporises instantly and creates an eplosion of molten metal. insted , the co2 stops and pulls heat out of everithing to expand the powder in somme extinguisher is sodium bicarbonate. when heated high enough the bicarbonate transforms in co2 stoping irival of oxigen and so.
Sep 9, 2009. 4:29 PMpinkhairkid says:
question does it have to be quickrete? could you use just concrete mix?
May 23, 2010. 10:19 PMSteve66oh says:
The best material to replace the quickrete would be "Insulating Castable", search for it online. I don't like the rocks in quickrete or concrete, or the lime - a castable refractory mortar would do this job the way the pros do it....
Sep 30, 2009. 7:41 AMsharlston says:
it has to be quick crete concrete has bubbles and bubbles explode
Mar 7, 2010. 2:01 PMjdc123 says:
what kind of torch is advised for something like this?
May 14, 2010. 4:22 PMpunkhead58 says:
He used propane, however, oxy-acetylene would go a lot faster.
Dec 12, 2009. 4:20 PMmatroska says:
Hey Mr Shark500, I'm planning on actually builing this model of foundry, but I'd need some help as many of my questions are unresolved :( I thought maybe with your foundry experience you could help me out?

I was thinking either through IM or the instructables PM page.
Thanks! Your project is really motivating me, and I find it so well done!
Sep 19, 2009. 4:49 AMsuperhubbardman says:
Delicious, delicious alumuffins
:D
good ible, 5 * and faved
Jan 2, 2008. 6:26 AMjustin55 says:
im not sure exactly what the cause was but last weekend i had a propane torch and i decided to heat a penny with it and discovered that it melts, then i did it on my wet carport and it exploded all over my face and it looks like i scraped up my face really bad, i could have been blinded easily and i recommend being very careful with water!!!!!!!!!
Mar 24, 2008. 5:34 PMleebryuk says:
It's the same reason that you don't place water onto a grease fire. The water rapidly (very, very rapidly) turns into a vapor. When it turns to a vapor it expands and moves outwards. In the case of a very hot liquid, the water turns into water gas and pushes everything outwards. There is no need for a chemical reaction. Rather, the physical transition between phases is what causes the explosion.
Aug 7, 2009. 2:33 PMsnowdruid says:
actually if the grease or oil is hot enough the water decomposes into hydrogen an oxygen instantly ignites and creates a huge fireball might look cool but is very dangerous
Aug 7, 2009. 5:34 PMleebryuk says:
Water decomposes into hydrogen and oxygen around 3,000C. Then plasma incineration. Cooking oil (such as canola) top out around 500F. So it is simply a phase transition. As a solid or liquid transitions to a gas they expand and occupy much more room. When this transition and expansion happens very quickly it is termed as an explosions. A bomb undergoes a chemical reaction that gives off heat and gas at the same time which makes it occupy more room very quickly. Gundpowder is a great example. Just a tiny bit can hurl a tank shell for miles. Water thrown into a 500F fire immediately and rapidly expands into a gas. This transition throws oodles of burning oil into the air. Not a lot of fun to be around. But no chemical reaction is necessary.
Jan 4, 2008. 3:37 PMJonny Appleseed says:
some pennies melt because at some point they started making them out of zinc (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that explosion was probably the concrete exploding underneath the molten metal when it was heated, because there is still small amounts of water in the cured concrete...when you heat it, that water turns to steam, creating lots of pressure, eventually it explodes due to built up pressure , thats why you use so little water in the cement when you make this furnace, you also have to ram it in to eliminate any air pockets.
Apr 1, 2009. 12:42 AMjasontimmer says:
In 1982 they switched from basically pure copper pennies to copper coated zinc. In fact, pre-1982 pennies are worth more as scrap copper than they are as pennies.
Mar 24, 2008. 3:33 PMmorgantheblack says:
1944-1982, US pennies were 95% copper. 82 and newer are a zinc blank, with a copper wash.

Wikipedia on Pennies

Mar 26, 2008. 3:30 PMidon says:
hahah true that, Hockey player here. split my chin open 4 times now. 9 stiches each time. funny thing is, i didnt realize i cut it till the EMT came up to me and was like, your going to need stiches. i looked in his mirror and i had blood all the way down my neck. happens evrey time.. i still get some hot *** biznatchesss
Jun 12, 2009. 8:00 PMprideofgumbo says:
I made one of these and I can't get it to melt anything. Can't figure out where I am going wrong. Bigger torch maybe?
Apr 30, 2009. 11:50 PMClemensY290 says:
the best way of not getting injured by these reactions is not to do it
Apr 17, 2009. 10:24 PMkoga wolf says:
i didn't know that
Mar 30, 2009. 1:53 PMTinkers4fun says:
A very nice way to condense aluminum into more manageable sizes for recycle or future use (added to favorites)
Mar 14, 2009. 2:20 PMArtificialPulse says:
haha, metal muffins. :-) you rock.
Aug 29, 2008. 6:51 PMNV1 says:
Awesome!!! Do you think this could melt copper scrap?
Jun 2, 2008. 6:08 PMmaxa says:
dose it go throw a lot of gas can you make a instructable on making stuff with the slag
Jun 29, 2008. 3:03 AMWyle_E says:
The slag is mostly aluminum oxide, which could be used in a refractory mixture for lining your next furnace. The problem is that you'll have to melt a *lot* of aluminum to get enough slag to build a furnace. Thousands of words have been published on the Web about homebrew refractories.
Jul 25, 2008. 12:12 PMichiwazaryu says:
Slag could be all sorts of stuff, not just aluminum oxide.
Dec 19, 2007. 1:40 AMfutex says:
u do know if u have one drop of water touch your alloy it will cause a explosion so devastating u and your family will die?? keep glass and wet cans AWAY. I work for Australians biggest alloy smelter caprol alloy. i would love to have this in my shed great idea... but dangerouse
Jul 25, 2008. 12:07 PMichiwazaryu says:
That isn't quite true. But certainly not a recomended procedure.

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