Main Features: Safety, Durability, Built in Pot Stand and Funnel, Wind Resistant, and Easy to Light with no priming pan.
Step 1: List
cooking spray can (PAM or equivalent)
metal knockout from an electrical panel or other metal disc
fiberglass insulation (formaldehyde free is recommended)
needle nose pliers
gutter crimping tool
drill and bits
Step 2: Being an Idiot
Cutting a pressurized can is stupid and I'm not responsible for you being an idiot.
As long as we're on the topic of being an idiot. Use a cooking spray can, not a spray paint can. I wouldn't want to eat anything cooked on a stove that had chemicals in it.
Step 3: Cutting the Can
Use a hack saw or a dremel tool to cut the can on the marker lines. Be sure to keep the cuts straight. You will need to save the cap and the middle section of metal for later use.
Inside the can will be some junk from the oil and a plastic straw. Clean it out the best you can and remove the straw.
Step 4: Drilling the Holes
Do not put the holes in the low area of the rim!
Step 5: Stuff the Stove and Put It Together.
Use a gutter crimping tool on the sides of the bottom half of the can. This will allow the bottom to slide up inside the top half of the stove, but before shoving them together the stove needs to be stuffed. I recommend stuffing formaldehyde free fiberglass insulation in the bottom half of the stove and some in the top half.
The fiberglass will not burn, it acts as a wick when soaked with the alcohol, controls the burn, and makes it safer. If the stove is kicked over the fiberglass will keep the alcohol from spilling all over and starting a fire. This stove will be more fuel efficient then a normal alcohol stove as well because the alcohol cant escape as fast.
Step 6: Sealing the Stove and Making the Pot Stand
Remember that middle part of the can that you saved? This is the time to get this back out and make it into a pot stand. You'll need to use the gutter crimping tool again and crimp the whole thing all the way around. This will make it the right size to fit in that small groove on the top of the can. Drill some holes in the pot stand, again using the 1/8 and the 1/16 inch drill bits. some additional air channels need to be cut in the top and bottom of the pot stand to allow oxygen in.
I used a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the metal in rather than trying to cut it off.
Remember the plastic cap you saved? The cap has a hole already in it from the factory so you don't need to drill one. It makes a great funnel to fill the stove and (after the stove is cooled) the cap can be put back on to keep everything together.
Step 8: Firing the Stove
The pictures show the stove seconds after being lit. there is still a lot of alcohol on the top of the can, that is why the flame is so tall. The flame levels out to burn about 2 inches above the pot stand.
One more thing, don't use a penny on a penny stove unless you need to. Copper gives off some bad fumes when you heat it.