Main Features: Safety, Durability, Built in Pot Stand and Funnel, Wind Resistant, and Easy to Light with no priming pan.
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cooking spray can (PAM or equivalent)
metal knockout from an electrical panel or other metal disc
hack saw
permanent marker
fiberglass insulation (formaldehyde free is recommended)
metal snips
needle nose pliers
gutter crimping tool
drill and bits
jb weld











































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I was just looking thru the back recesses of my desk drawer and came across a well worn 1943 steel penny. An idea flashed into my mind about a name change:
"Steel-Penny" stove.
It goes along with the steel stove concept, and removes the copper penny problem.
How much fuel did you put in it to last 30 minutes. Do you think a version about 1-1 1/2 inches tall would work for 10-15 minutes if full?
Did you ever consider or play around with a tight windscreen from below the flame to above the top of the Cup or pot with some sort of filler flap to cover between the top and bottom of the handle?
I made and tested a shade tree version out of a resized large juice can and HD aluminum with an 1/4-1/2" air space (insulation) between the inner juice can skirt and the outer HD aluminum skirt. The resized juice can leaves 3/8" all around between this reflective insulated skirt and the cup. Results were very impressive so I am trying to see how to make the stove as efficient as possible when I use it to heat water in a 750 ml to 1 liter aluminum water bottle. Any thoughts on this or any fuel efficiency improving ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Regards and nice job,
Most pennies are now made with a zinc core. Burning zinc fumes are a nasty health hazard.
http://www.backpack-and-gear.com/backpacking-stove-reviews.html
One comment I have concerns the metal knockout called for in the materials list. I don't see it called out during the assembly of your stove. I believe I see it covering the hole where the valve used to be. Is that piece attached with JB Weld or just laid over the hole?
Thanks for presenting this Instructable.
You are correct the metal knockout is covering where the valve used to be. This doesn't get attached to the stove. As with any "penny" stove you need to cover the fill hole when the stove is lit, but it needs to be free so that you can fill the stove.