Ultra-cheap router lift

Though the real solution for a router table involves a lift kit, there's little point in spending $200 to tie up my good Dewalt router for possibly infrequent use.. A sale at Harbor Freight netted me a 1.75hp plunge router for $40, and Amazon delivered me a Rousseau Router Base Plate for $39. All that was left was to make my router lift on the cheap. The only visible damage I'll do to the router is two small (1/16) holes drilled into the motor assembly near the depth stop.

This is not as robust as a lift kit with a professional grade router, but can be assembled for under $100 (As low as $70. One commentor has noted that HF also sells an identical plate for about $20 +$7 S&H.)

(Note: As usual, this will probably void your warranty.)

Step 1 Design Overview

The plan is to replace this fixed, rudimentary height adjuster with a setup that will compress the plunge router motor (and bit) upward toward it's base with accurate height adjustments. Instead of the height adjustment preventing compression beyond the nut, we'll use it to crank the motor upward like a normal lift system.

Comments

[scavanger]

 Nice instructable.
I did something very similar with my Porter Cable router a few years ago.
Some of you may find it helpful so I posted a link. Not all the nice detail that Vetus posted here, but a few photos on my blog you may find useful.
Hope it gives you a few more ideas to work with.

Homemade router lift mechanism 

[scavanger]

The above link is broken I'm Just updating it here: Homemade Router Lift Mechanism For a 3HP Porter-Cable



Some great idea here, thanks to all for sharing.

[pfred2]

If you'd just bought the Hitachi you'd have gotten a lift accessory thrown in the deal. At least I did. Look familiar?

http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/hi/hitachi-m12v.jpg

The lift is the knob sticking up on the left. That and you'd have gotten a full power balanced tool too.

[Vestus]

The m12v isn't available on our side of the pond. How much do they run?

[pfred2]

I think the old model is discontinued today. I paid $120 for mine years ago. The big ugly green machine. It is nice though electronic soft start, variable speed, smooth, gobs of power. It even came with a decent 1/2" straight carbide bit just to get you started. I'm not sure if they all came with the lift accessory or not but mine did. When I was in the market for a good tool it was the cheapest "real" 1/2" plunge router going.

The biggest complaint anyone ever had about them was the dumb base ears to hold guides stopped you from running the largest bits. But some folks just knocked those ears off. You could almost buy 3 M12Vs for what most other routers in its class cost.

I haven't always been the kindest to mine either

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/3937/hitachilog.jpg

[dyril]

Thanks for this Instructable. Being new to woodworking I ended up getting a DeWalt 618PK but then shortly kicked myself for not having researched router-table-friendly routers. So I just modded the 618's plunge base like so (how lucky that I could find a nice spot to drill holes). Remove unnecessary things such as springs and plastic casing. Cut a 3/8"-16 socket-head bolt and graft onto another sawed-off bolt, joining with a connector nut. I couldn't find teenuts, so I carefully tapped the sliding portion (using the bolt).

[Vestus]

I have a 618 that I planned to install on the table saw wing and never found a good way. Thanks for the pics.

[air-v]

Hello,
I've got POF1400 Bosch Router, and i would try your tips. Do you think it will be possible ?
Thanks

[Vestus]

Most likely, but I'm only basing that on advertising photos. I don't see much to hold the tee-nut on, so you may have to use JB weld.

[drab84]

Thanks for this, I have the exact router you do, and wasn't about to spend another 100 bucks for a lift system. You've saved me a lot of crawling under the table.

[Vestus]

Let me know how it works for you. I managed to scrounge and buy a lift after I finished this and never used it much.

[drab84]

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Project got delayed, but it does work great! I used the JB Weld method on the tee nut (mostly since I broke a drill bit the other way), and it worked, but was hard to line up. All in all it works great, and much much cheaper than the alternative. Thanks again!

[patrick kane]

looks great

[garymuto]

Cool set up. I got a router raizer kit for ~$20 at Rockler on clearance and thought it was a steal since it retailed for $90. It has a few more novelties like a dust cap for the hole in the router plate and an Z shaped allen wrench (speed wrench) with a handle and a small magnet to remove the dust cap when adjusting. Not bad for $20 until I see that I could' ve done it for about $8. I set up my 3-1/2 HP Craftsman router and it works well. I thought about doing this to my P-C 690 but only had one kit and the craftsman is so bulky I chose that one for the Raizer. Maybe I'll set up my 690 so I can have 2 routers with above table adjustment.

[JillB]

thanks Vestus. Any chance of posting photos / pictures of the hardware used at the base? We don't seem to have anything like it in Australia regards, Jill

[Vestus]

The pictures and links in step 2 should illustrate what they look like, and the picture series in step 4 should show how the base is assembled. Connector bolts are typically used for flat-packed (particle board) furniture, so most hardware stores around here (US) have them.

[JillB]

Found them - they are referred to here as knock down fittings for furniture

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/knock-down-fittings-433_1.aspx

Jill

[JillB]

Nicely done, Vesta, and great to hear it works well. I want to do a similiar thing to my Hitachi TR-12 router, which is almost idential to yours. Could you please clarify what you have done at the base? I don't understand how the allen key arrangement is done, and what keeps the router body from sliding back down the slide posts. regards, Jill

[Vestus]

The likely route for the TR-12 shouldn't be too different. In this photo Hitachi TR-12 the height limiter is in the foreground and would have to be replaced. This is effectively the pic in step 1 upside down.

The base only needs a hole drilled where the post attaches. Through this we put the 'connecting' bolt (not my word, Lowe's label for them). If we could find 9" connecting bolts, we'd just need the tee-nut on the motor and be done. Turn the bolt to tighten against the nut and compress, pulling the motor up to the table.

The connector bolt has a nice large flange and goes through the base pointing up toward the motor. To that, we use a coupler, and a piece of threaded rod to reach the u-shaped mount point on the motor, where we attach a t-nut. Turning the connector bolt (and rod) lets us compress the base to the motor and raise the bit.

(The router doesn't slide down the posts due to being upside down, and the springs left inside. )

The connector bolts have an allen socket in the top, which makes it a conveniently small hole needed in the mount plate.

[JiminPA]

To make it even better, Harbor Freight has a very similar router plate for--last time I checked--around $20. Check the online catalog.

[auntnana]

Just what I've been looking for! Great instructable!The head of my connector bolt just happened to be the exact same diameter as the depth adjustment socket so couldn't countersink. I used a spade bit to trim the socket down a bit then grinded smooth and flat with a Dremel tool so it would fit under the base. Have to be careful and slow so that the trimming is even and level. Info could be just a teensy bit clearer on what's to be lubed and what's to be locktite-d. Also had to use JB Weld as the nails didn't cut it. Great job!

[leonmcd]

How hard is it to change bits? Do you just crank for a long time or do you pop the router and plate out of the table?

[Vestus]

It's easy to drop the router a dozen turns and then raise it up again. I managed to save an S-shaped allen wrench from some particle-board furniture that makes things easier. If you don't care about returning to an exact height, you can chuck up an allen bit in a cordless drill and lower it the easy way.

[sysiphus]

Awesome idea. I have a cheap plunge router that has been sitting unused due to a design flaw. Reading this, I suddenly see how I can have it back in service, work around/correct the design flaw, and have the router table I've been craving. Wow. This is exactly why I love Instructables. Thank you for posting this!

[Spritegeezer]

I like the idea. Actually I use my good router on my router table as I can't do a thing with it free hand. One question. Why did you choose to us a plunge router? Wouldn't a standard router work just as well without the mods? Is it to make adjustments easier?

[Vestus]

The main benefit of a lift kit is easy accurate adjustments. Most of the non-plunge routers that are out twist to adjust the height. This usually tends to be a 'try, then verify, repeat as necessary' process (and usually the reason people buy a lift kit.). A scratch built lift kit has to ensure it raises level, and doesn't move when I feed a chunk of hardwood into it. I've seen a couple well done lifts, but they tend to be rather complicated to keep the router stable and level. The plunge assembly contains the stability in its design, all I needed to do was to raise the motor accurately.

[Spritegeezer]

That was my assumption. I just wanted to be certain I wasn't missing something else. Thanks!

[lochlanmasters]

When he is adjusting the height of the router in the table he is plunging up and down. If he hadn't used a plunge router he would have had to fabricate an up and down slide.

[bleachworthy]

good job!not many people modify their tools like this, good craftsmanship!

[GorillazMiko]

awesome instructable :-)