Underwater Housing for miniDV

Step 8 Updated Design (V2)

Ok, so the V1 housing is still working fine but as a do-it-yourselfer I couldn't leave well enough alone. The first housing left a lot of space the rear of the cam so it wasn't as compact as it could be. Here's V2, which basically replaces the rear removable cap assembly with a simple acrylic disk. Notice the draw latch catches are screwed right into the acrylic.

I've sold this prototype to a willing beta tester who's only had it down to 10ft so far. A full depth test will be done in early January 07. My next build will use 3/4" Acrylic for the end window but I'm not sure if the additional thickness is even necessary.

Comments

[evoseano]

What are you using for control knobs?

[Bobby_M]

Nothing. I start the recording about 5 minutes before I splash in, seal the housing and go. My battery and tape lasts 60 minutes and my dives are usually 45.

[drew898]

im using a 40gig harddrive camcorder so aint worried about the footage lasting but my dives tend to last atleast an hour if not longer ( i dont breath lol) but will have to look at getting spare batteries then. thanks for the comments

[evoseano]

I would like an on record off record and a zoom in zoom out I plan to use this baby during a hurricane do you have any sujestions I was looking at some plastic lever handles from irrigation equipment what do you think any one

[drew898]

finding the controls aint a prob the prob i've come across is how to seal the perspex once i've put the rods through it

[Bobby_M]

If you wanted to make your own controls, you can get some 1/8" stainless rod and a compression fitting with NPT threads. 1/4" NPT can be tapped into the acrylic or PVC. You'd remove the metal ferrule on the compression fitting and pack that cavity with some lubricated orings. Tighten the compression nut enough to stop water but not restrict the turning of the rod too much.

[evoseano]

were do you get this hardware from I have looked everywere fro compressipn fitings and they are to big or not what I need if you know a website let me know Thanks Bob

[Bobby_M]

Check out item 5533K433 at mcmaster.com You'd have to drill out the stop with a 1/8" bit and pack an oring or two in there but that would work.

[drew898]

hi guys built something similar i guess but i used a 6lt CO2 fire extinguisher bottle as the walls are 5mm ally and internal dia is 108mm very good and been tested to 50m and still going strong after over 200+ dives only thing im strugerling on is setting up dials on the 1/2 inch perspex to control the camera so at the mo i switch it on before the dive and turn it off after so catch the hole dive lol does any1 have any ideas on controls for power and zoom

[jcub231]

i am willing to buy one how much do you want

[extraawesome]

Oh, Yep, it's the polished edge, It looked like a metal ring going around the entire acrylic piece but it's just really good craftsmanship that made it look all shiny!

[Bobby_M]

Thanks. That's called flame polishing. Sand with 400 grit until uniform, then slowly rotate that edge against a propane torch flame. The hazy surface melts just enough to form a smooth shiny finish. You can overdo it and burn it so be careful and practice on scrap first.

[extraawesome]

What was the round metal piece that goes all the way around the outside called? I've been trying to find one but I don't know the name of it.

[Bobby_M]

I'd love to answer your question but there is no metal part that goes around the outside. I'm trying to figure out what you're seeing. Maybe you're seeing the polished edge of the acrylic disc?

[cherbini]

So, what were the results from Hawaii? Definitely going to start this one up. Trying to get to Cozumel or Cayman's later this year, and need to get the PV-GS250 set up. Have you ever tried different lenses inside the housing? I have a Raynox WA lens that really improves the FOV on the GS250, and am interested to see how well it may work underwater. Thanks for the great instructions! John C.

[Bobby_M]

Hey, thanks for checking in. So, yes the V1 is still in operation, at least the last time I used it. I've been reluctant to post on the V2 because they guy I sold it to claimed it leaked. However, he did only pay half of our agreed price as a deposit with the idea that he'd pay the rest when he verified it worked. After claiming it leaked, I asked him to send it back for a refund and he stopped replying to my emails. You could come to the conclusion that it worked just fine and he had no real incentive to pay the other half. I'm pretty confident in the V2 design but would up the thickness of the removable cap to 3/4". On the lense question, I wouldn't know. My cheap cam doesn't allow for aux or changed lenses. I would recommend at least allowing for enough depth inside to allow for any lense you want to try, but in any case you want to get the lense in use as close to the front window as possible to reduce reflections coming from the rear window.

[cherbini]

Yeah, I got you on the distance from lens to front window. Makes sense. One could put multiple mounting spots on the tray to accommodate different lens choices. So, what do you think on the version that I should try? I like the design and simplicity of v2, but it doesn't seem like it's had the testing that v1 has. Has anyone else built and tested v2? Thanks! JC

[Bobby_M]

There have been a LOT of housings built using the single piece end. The only difference from mine is that they usually use thicker stock than 1/2". I suspect the issue is rigidity. If you use four latches, you can use a thinner stock. At 3 latches, the space between each increases and you can get some flex. V1 solves the problem by using the coupling's strength to evenly apply the clamping pressure. As confident as I am in the V2 design, I can't recommend it until I test it myself to 100' like I have for V1. Check out this huge thread for which I explored both designs:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=101940

[chrisloco]

Thanks, Bobby for the great design. I have ordered all parts, including 3/4 inch acrylic for the lens. From looking at the picture the latches are mounted right to the edge of the plexiglass using ss screws. Just wanted to make sure that is the right way to do it. I don't want to crack the acrylic. Also has version 2 been tested yet . Thanks tons for the help and all the legwork!

[Bobby_M]

Right, the latch catches are screwed right into the acrylic. I predrilled and then tapped the holes for the 6/32 stainless screws I used. The key to not damaging the acrylic is to make sure the latch distance is "moderate" whatever that means. I judged that by having the latch lever be perfectly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the housing before I start feeling spring tension. I wrote down the exact hole to hole spacing to do this but I lost it. The gent that bought V2 is coming back from Hawaii any day now so I should hear the results soon.