Underwater Housing for miniDV

Step 9 End Cap Details for V2

The first picture is really the key to this design. It shows how a simple, non-machined, O-ring groove is created. Remember that water pressure is always trying to push the Oring into the housing so the inner wall must stop it. At the same time, you must maintain a gap between the acrylic window and the main body so that it only contacts the Oring. I'll add detailed notes to all images on this page.

Comments

[yellowcatt]

A very good project, I just wanted to say that for any one in the UK I found Westward plastics in Bristol http://www.westwardplastics.co.uk/ to be a good supplier of material, they can also cut the acrylic discs for you and flame polish them, I have used them several times. Also if you can get there to pick up your material you may be able to have a look in their scrap bin for useful off cuts. Another supplier worth checking out is Kebrell Nuts & Bolts Ltd, I have only used their Bristol depot but found them to have a wide range of stock and the people there to be very helpful.

[shaneramma]

Awesome! I am heading to the tropics for some diving and have always wanted to take my camcorder with me but can't justify the $1000 cases out there. I hope you are still reading this, I have a few questions. Have you observed any condensation when you used this beauty? Second, have you thought about any exterior controls? Start/Stop, zoom, on/off, etc? Is there a V3? Thanks again for taking the time to post this. It is very well done and much appreciated. If you need any future "beta" testers put my name on that list!

[Bobby_M]

I always put a few silica gel packets inside under the camera try to soak up moisture so I don't know if they were necessary or not. I've never felt the need for controls because a DV tape is about the same length as my max dive time. After my first dive, I change out the battery and tape and let it roll again. Zooming is relatively useless underwater because everything gets dark further away even in really good vis. I don't think the potential leak point is worth it. Start/Stop COULD be done by making the tray a little short so that it can slide forward and back about 3/8". Then put a protrusion on the back window right where the record button is on the camera. Tilt the housing back so that it slides and hits the button.

[beline]

What do you sell it for? I will do some usage testing. Put it underwater for a week or so... :-D

[Bobby_M]

Way too many liability issues with selling. Also, this is one of those typical DIY projects that takes up a lot of labor time. Even if I paid myself $5 an hour, the labor cost would be $200.

[kgom]

This is one of the best diy UW housing I found so far. I am hoping to make it and wondering about simplifying it a little more... How feasible is it to use a PVC plug screw to replace the back end of the housing. Using plumbers tape and maybe a o-ring to seal it securely ? What do you thing ?

[Bobby_M]

I think you mean cementing a female adapter to the back end so that you can put a threaded plug into it. First thing is that those female adapters in 4" are pretty pricey. Second, you would be tempting fate every time you threaded that thing in. It's not like you have a clean, steady workbench on the dive boats. Finally, with no acrylic in the rear, it's gonna be tough to identify leaks immediately. My boat routine is to jump in holding the housing over my head. Then I dunk it in with my face in the water to make sure I've got a good seal. If I see any droplets inside, it gets handed back to the boat (hasn't happened yet but all it takes is one piece of hair or sand on the Oring).

[beline]

A few things, and I hope you still read this. One, AWESOME! Great alternative to the $1,200 cases! And it looks very viable as well. Flat Acrylic ends. While not unnecessary on both ends, on one end is almost a requirement, but your looking at it in the wrong direction. The fully open end should be the shooting end, to avoid field of view issues with wide-angle lenses. Also, regarding that end I would do one of a few things, with the direct goal of structural support. Either add a support ring around the inside, cemented to the end piece, or get a slightly thicker piece and route a groove that the housing edge slips into. The later of the two is probably better, at keeps the end one solid piece, and it would actually afford you the option of putting a second o-ring in that groove. It would also hold the end center. How do you start/stop recording, etc?

[Bobby_M]

Field of view issue? You can insert the cam tray in either direction. Some designs purposely put a sun visor into the front end design to help with flares. Additional structural support is moot since both ends have double wall. I've had it down to 110ft so far but I'm confident it would easily do 200. Additional orings are asked about a lot here and they are unnecessary since the deeper you go, the harder the removable end pushes on the sealing surface. If your housing doesn't leak in 10 ft, it won't. The only way to integrate more than one Oring is to have one of them be a face seal and the second or more be radial/slip seals. The V1 design would allow for this if you can route a glans (slot) into the inside of the coupling or the outside of the housing.

[runwithscissor09]

I was watching how things are made on the discovery channel and they were making acrylic awards for businesses or whatever. anyways. to smooth out cuts that they did they just used a buffer and buffed it real quick to get it super clear

[jsmith89]

How did you get the sleeve exactly 3/16 inch from the edge of the body?

[Bobby_M]

Sorry for the delay, didn't see this. I had a 3/16ths diameter O-ring I used as a spacer as I was gluing the ring on. It's a little tricky, but you could use a couple scrap pieces of anything 3/16" thick to space it off your work bench.