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This instructable will show you the process of building a fully functional ROV capable of 60ft or more. I built this ROV with the help of my dad and several other people who have built ROVs before. This was a long project that took al summer and part of the beginning of the school year.
ROV Video.AVI(320x240) 48 MB
 
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Step 1: Design

seafox.jpg
Rollette ROV.jpg
In order to keep the ROV stable in the water, you need a design that is weighted on the bottom and has floats on the top.

The first ROV was built by Steve of Homebuilt ROVs. His website has numerous ROV designs as well as links to other ROV websites. He also incorporates several How To instructions in his site. I found this site to be invaluable in building my ROV, and would recommend it to anyone interested in building their own

The second ROV was built be Jason Rollette at Rollette.com His design is a little different but still very effective.

For my ROV I decided on a large center tube with two smaller tube located on either side, slightly underneath the center tube.
jakeson says: Jun 5, 2013. 8:02 AM
Any luck with those videos and perhaps I missed this, but how did you attach the black abs to the PVC in the end, did you stick with ZapStraps?
Veteran_ComputerEngineer says: May 28, 2013. 4:17 PM
Very nice!
UnderSeaWolfwith4StaticMotorsSet.jpg
mlucas6 says: Jan 12, 2013. 6:06 AM
Hi really nice ROV i am looking in to this for surf fishing as in towing out my line bait and all past the 3rd sandbar thats about 200 yards or a bit more would it work with that long of a tether?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to mlucas6Jan 12, 2013. 2:16 PM
200 yards is a bit of a stretch for the signal I am using to communicate with the ROV. If you switched to something more robust such as I2C or a serial data connection it would function better . Remember that the tether will become an antenna as it is fed out so using a RC style controller would be impossible due to all the interference you would get. If all you plan on using this for is towing a line then I would recommend a stronger forward/reverse thruster system as you will need to overcome the drag of both the tether and your line, not to mention any kind of current.

Good luck!
harry88 says: Jun 13, 2012. 9:43 PM
You could use an air compressor and an electronic valve to let in water and another to let in Air to a ballast tank but it would add another 30 + dollars in airhose and valves
monty324 says: Apr 14, 2012. 12:42 PM
when i was about 6 i liked to watch the diving programes because i thought rov's where soooo cool
mwuchevich says: Dec 10, 2011. 4:07 PM
Was wondering if their is any ill effect for use in cold ocean water... I just moved to norway and im currently evaluating what design parameters i will need to help me study the submarine geology in the current area. Any informaiton about cold water performance would be grately helpful. Considering rock retrival video and some type of sonic rebound reflective maping device.. just not finished with research.
mwuchevich in reply to mwuchevichDec 10, 2011. 4:13 PM
also any ideas about cancling neutral boyncy after retreaving objects on a dive? sorry for the sp its late and brain not spiting out words to fingers correctly.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to mwuchevichDec 28, 2011. 4:41 PM
Cold water is not much of a problem provided you use seals that are meant for colder temperatures. Most commercial ROVs operate at depths where the water temperature is significantly colder than the surface.

When retrieving items, you will either need powerful enough motors to lift the object or some kind of inflatable lift bag to give you the added buoyancy you need. Alternatively you could use a tether that has a lifting line which you could use to haul your ROV to the surface
grundisimo says: Jul 21, 2011. 8:07 PM
Try using pumps and ballast tanks to control weight.
Legoman132 says: Feb 16, 2011. 3:34 PM
I am building an ROV myself, and I was wondering ow far your lights penetrated in cloudy water. Also, I flound that the 1250 GPH bilge pump replacement cartridge from West Marine doesn't need cutting to get to the motor shaft, and I got some boat props from hobbytown that fit the shaft perfectly, just tighten the key and go. The only issue is they produce more thrust in one direction than the other. Do you have the same issue? I also find that mounting your motors with PVC pipe clamps (in the 1 1/2 inch realm I think) and some old bicycle inner tube around the motors holds them on solidly, and you then put some bolts through the frame PVC (assuming your frame isn't watertight). This forms a very solid mount(at least for me) that doesnt move. It also doesn't crush your pipe like pipe clamps do.
UberNoober in reply to Legoman132Jul 10, 2011. 9:08 AM
Because of the shape and design of a propeller, and the way it's mounted on the motor, they produce more thrust in one way than the other. It's a problem all prop-driven ROV's must design around.
R.A.T.M says: Apr 26, 2011. 4:25 PM
CAN I BUY ONE FROM YOU
nomejodaslavida says: Feb 28, 2010. 4:22 PM
If you're going to use the submersible bilge pumps as motors, why not use them as they are, without propellers,  for jet propulsion?  You could even increase the force of the jet by by graduating the discharge down to a smaller size.
berry120 in reply to nomejodaslavidaApr 23, 2011. 7:14 AM
Propellers have the advantage that they can be run either way for forwards and backwards - they'll also give more thrust (though draw more current as a result.)
MR JAMES says: Oct 1, 2010. 8:05 PM
cool i want 1 of these lol
ghostrider2 says: Jun 16, 2010. 4:05 AM
how much was the total cost of the project?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to ghostrider2Jun 18, 2010. 8:59 PM
about 300$, depends on how complicated you make it
rajeev.piyare in reply to SpaceShipOneJul 12, 2010. 9:09 PM
hi any idea if we can get the codes and circuit diagrams for this whole project so that we can implement as well please. Thanks
BJMN says: Feb 7, 2009. 2:05 PM
I have a quick question - I remember learning in school that water is opaque to IR. My wife is a certified IR photo tech, and I know that our IR camera won't show things even just a few millimeters under the surface of water. Is it really IR that these cameras use?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to BJMNFeb 7, 2009. 7:49 PM
My camera is not an IR camera, but Sparkfun carries a similar model in IR. I do know that most people use night vision cameras, similar to the types that can be purchased form fishing stores. I have also heard of B&W cameras being used, since they are IR sensitive.
BJMN in reply to SpaceShipOneFeb 8, 2009. 8:44 PM
Hmm - just curiosity, since I don't doubt you've researched more than I! But to rephrase my question - since water is opaque to IR, wouldn't IR cameras be relatively useless underwater? If B&W cameras were IR sensitive, wouldn't they still just be picking up the visible light spectrum, since water emits an even IR level? Anyhow - not looking to troll this thread out - but still curious as to how an IR camera would function underwater!
rrrmanion in reply to BJMNSep 3, 2009. 6:16 AM
maplin seem to be selling a camera that is apparently able to see up to 7m it has 12 IR LEDs, so it seems IR does work under-water so perhaps how you had it set up or something I don't know
wheelerjp50 in reply to rrrmanionMar 26, 2010. 12:05 PM
Red light can penetrate up to 15 meters in water. Most b&w cameras pick up near infrared that is between red and true  infrared. So 7m sounds reasonable. Like any light it would be limited by suspended particles in the water.

SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to BJMNFeb 9, 2009. 10:33 PM
I don't know for sure, but it could be that water is opaque to only certain wavelengths of IR.
quesoman says: Feb 22, 2010. 8:30 PM
is a video of the ROV in action possible?
myfixitshowcom says: Feb 22, 2010. 8:02 PM
"This is plenum rated Cat 5, meaning that it can be pulled through walls using a fishtape."
...could be wrong, was couple times afore, but I think 'plenum' cable is cable which uses insulation that does not produce harmful vapors when burned. In some commercial buildings, a/c return-air is run (without ducts) in the space between the room ceiling and the floor above it, ie the 'plenum'. If a fire ever broke out, this specially-designed 'plenum' cable would not release toxic fumes into the a/c system air flow which would injure or kill all living creatures within the air conditioned space.
Other than that, thanks for the info here. I have been working on my own system, mostly to get live pics in the canals here in S. Fla. My interest is in getting the 'real' closeups of the many 'gators that live here; maybe one day I'll get some neat shots as my mini-cam gets swallowed whole!
myfixitshowcom
your dog says: Sep 28, 2009. 5:16 PM
would be a good camera?
it also has infered so you would not have to buy lights

http://cgi.ebay.com/CCTV-Security-30-IR-LED-Waterproof-Camera-Power-Bracket_W0QQitemZ350211816960QQcmdZViewItem be a good camera?
astrong0 in reply to your dogFeb 21, 2010. 3:20 PM
You spelled infra-red wrong
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to your dogSep 28, 2009. 8:21 PM
Yes, that camera would work for this application, however, you would need a housing because this camera is not rated for underwater use. The best cameras are ones actually designated for underwater use.
your dog in reply to SpaceShipOneSep 29, 2009. 4:20 PM
it says it is waterproof in the title-
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to your dogSep 30, 2009. 3:34 PM
Yes but unless it specifically says it is submersible to a rated depth, I would not trust it. Waterproof simply means, if it rains, it will not get damaged
jumpup_dnb_dj in reply to SpaceShipOneOct 30, 2009. 12:31 AM
I think you are actually making reference to water resistant not waterproof as you state here.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to jumpup_dnb_djOct 31, 2009. 2:42 AM
I stand corrected, thanks
amaineman57 says: Sep 27, 2009. 3:47 PM
Super Ible! The only comment I would make after viewing the video is the need of prop guards to keep the umbilical from fouling the props. Other than that, Good show!
awang8 says: Nov 16, 2008. 7:26 PM
where can you buy a cheap 12v camera?

Spark fun costs AUD50 which is way too much.
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to awang8Dec 30, 2008. 8:42 AM
Ebay! I got my first few cameras from ebay I know you dislike ebay but I found for a mini camera for about 30$ My first was 12$ but the prices really popped up The sub that I am making will have one of my old wireless camera
awang8 in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotDec 30, 2008. 2:26 PM
EBay eh? Sometimes they're fake cameras and I hate them. Like, they claim to be real cameras and you end up with a el cheapo dummy camera. ¡¡ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq oʇ ƃuıoƃ ɯɐ ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to awang8Dec 30, 2008. 4:21 PM
if you look for a mini spy camera you might find another camera. How did you type upside down? sweet.
awang8 in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotDec 31, 2008. 3:19 PM
How to type upside down.

1. Log on to www.ebay.com
2. Search "Keyboard" with the 2nd hand option.
3. Buy the cheapest one you can find.
4. There you go! You got successfully scammed and you should now be able to type upside down!

Just kidding
clayball97 in reply to awang8Aug 19, 2009. 8:35 AM
serously though how do you type upside down
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to clayball97Aug 19, 2009. 10:39 AM
ʇı ǝןƃooƃ
daniel2008 in reply to awang8Dec 24, 2008. 1:04 AM
well you cna get cheap 'spy' cams on ebay which run on anything round 9 V, you could have a 9V battery inside the housing connected to your camera and then run the video cables up to the surface
awang8 in reply to daniel2008Dec 25, 2008. 8:55 PM
I'm not fond of ebay... It looks like i'm going for the Spark Fun. The webcam quality in my country is absolutely garbage.
awang8 in reply to awang8Dec 30, 2008. 4:26 AM
Alright, I bought a $50 security camera with RCA output from DIck Smith Electronics. The downside is that I have to use an adapter. Stay tuned, my Intructable is coming!
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to awang8Dec 31, 2008. 4:53 PM
Sounds like you're off to a good start. I can't wait to see how it turns out!
awang8 in reply to SpaceShipOneDec 31, 2008. 8:20 PM
It's based on the SeaFox so really it isn't that good. The most expensive parts were the pumps and the camera.
DELETED_craz meanman in reply to awang8Jan 4, 2009. 10:54 AM
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DELETED_craz meanman in reply to DELETED_craz meanmanJan 4, 2009. 10:56 AM
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awang8 in reply to DELETED_craz meanmanJan 4, 2009. 3:02 PM
1. I've heard that webcam's frame rates are very low. Expect laggy video. 2. No, they're probably just right with propellers.
DELETED_craz meanman in reply to awang8Jan 8, 2009. 2:02 PM
(removed by author or community request)
daniel2008 in reply to DELETED_craz meanmanJan 9, 2009. 6:03 AM
yeah, bilge pumps are pretty expensive, but you can use 3, so expect 40-60$ on that. But are you going to run 12V directly to the motors?...in which case you have to use wire that is thick enough to conduct over long distances but thin enough to be flexible.
awang8 in reply to daniel2008Jan 14, 2009. 8:47 PM
Actually, 3 1100GPH bilge pumps cost about $210, add $30 for the prop and adapter and there you go. 5/6 of your budget gone.
awang8 in reply to daniel2008Jan 12, 2009. 4:30 PM
AKA lots and lots oh 24 gauge wires twisted together.
daniel2008 in reply to awang8Jan 13, 2009. 4:25 AM
yeah...
bananafred in reply to awang8Jan 12, 2009. 7:26 PM
awang8 in reply to bananafredJan 14, 2009. 8:48 PM
Thats expensive and not really flexible enough. Plus, speaker wire is solid core so it snaps easily.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to awang8Jan 14, 2009. 11:08 PM
I was able to get 1100 GPH bilge pumps for about $30. Props were about $6 and adapters $3-4. However, if you are using props, the 500s will work fine. I have limited the full power of the 1100s due to amp draw and the fact that I don't need to go fast.
pic16f630 says: May 21, 2009. 7:22 AM
Very interesting. I wonder where did you get that electronic compass....
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to pic16f630Aug 19, 2009. 10:36 AM
alright so it is quite easy to make this compass.
FIrst you have to go to Zargos Robotics and get the compass sensor. it is located at their very bottom of the pagehttps://www.zagrosrobotics.com/Index.asp
then what I did is I made a little pcb board to fit the sensor and the lights and the output. I can give you the layout that I made if you would like it.
ʎɐʎ
Just to tell you this compass is very finicky.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to pic16f630May 21, 2009. 12:38 PM
I got it from a robotics website. It is a fairly standard compass used for navigation on robots. Its a Dinsmore 1490. A search online should yield several different stores that stock it
Nyanman says: Jul 21, 2009. 1:29 PM
really cool! i'll have to do this one sometime... what water current speeds can it handle?
cdvideo says: Jun 28, 2009. 5:01 PM
How deep have you gone with this ROV and how well is the RC control I have 3 30amp ESC and was going to use servo controllers from the surface 3 wires that is why I am asking If the RC transmitter transmitting to your teather works at 150 feet I can save 2 wires for a fish finder to show me the bottom contour.
fuzvulf says: Jun 12, 2009. 8:28 PM
Nice instructable. If you want to get "lead" shot, check with a store that carries reloader supplies for shotgun shells. Most of what you are paying for when you get them anywhere else is what I call the "cool factor". 10 pounds of #5 copper coated shot shell reloading shot only costs about $35 dollars. If that is outside of your budget, then check around and see if you have a local skeet shooting range. Tell them you want it to make weights, show them your ROV and see if they will let you gather some shot. They have to clean it up anyway because of environmental issues. Who knows you might get it for free. Good luck.
pattermon says: Jun 6, 2009. 4:21 PM
where did you et the pumps
abadfart says: Jun 1, 2009. 6:42 PM
very nice
thefrontdoorman says: May 25, 2009. 7:14 PM
If you live in a town where you can walk along the busy roads you can look on the side and find lead weights that come off the car tires. This is how I collect lead for projects. The ROV looks great ...thanks
Pyrotechnic-Robot says: Apr 7, 2009. 12:57 PM
I finally made my compass and first it is awesome! Has anyone made one and it is a little twitch. Does anyone want my schematic?
BJCK1990 says: Apr 6, 2009. 3:07 PM
Many people have asked if it was possible to use an arduino microcontroller to control the motors. Is this possible. With an arduino motor shield (http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/) is only capable up supplying up to 36 volts, but most bilge pumps draw several amps. Can the arduino motor shield supply this amperage?
jforb says: Mar 1, 2009. 6:59 PM
We used a vEx signal splitter from vexrobotics with the vEx transmitter and the banebots speed controllers, it's a relatively cheap way to control the speed controllers without much wiring hassle. The BEC on a speed controller will power the signal splitter, you only need one pair of wires to send the tether signal from the transmitter to the splitter.
afw11 says: Feb 26, 2009. 5:49 PM
Hi, me again. I have another question about the ballast tanks. It seems that all normal rovs have ballast tanks that help them float and be buoyant. But say, if you had a reasonable small rov, can't you tie a string to it and haul it back to the surface gently?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to afw11Feb 27, 2009. 6:42 PM
Simply put, yes. However, you will need to make the ROV negatively buoyant, so it will sink. Underwater cameras operate in this way. That said, if the string breaks, the ROV will not float back up. My ROV is built so it will float back to the surface if I lose the connection
afw11 says: Feb 26, 2009. 5:43 PM
Hi, I'm also interested in making an rov, but I have some questions. Is there a way to minimize the components, such as to only go forward and give a video feed? Also, I'm probably only going to use this in about a lake 20 ft deep, so how sensitive are the components to water pressure? And, is it possibly to make a wireless rov? By this, I mean tie a string or something to it so it doesn't get lost, but is controlled remotely? Thanks!
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to afw11Feb 27, 2009. 6:40 PM
It is possible to minimize the components, using only a camera and 1 thruster. As long as the components are contained in something waterproof, pressure is not much of an issue. Wireless is not possible. Transmitting through water is extremely difficult and nearly impossible to maintain good contact. Even professional ROVs use tethers.
rebelscum says: Jan 11, 2009. 1:10 PM
hi,I'm really interested in building a ROV,for fun an as something to do.Have a couple of questions,How heavy is it when its fully assembled?How much roughly did it cost all together?What was the most difficult thing about it?And if you were to do it again what would you do differently?Cheers mate
daniel2008 in reply to rebelscumJan 16, 2009. 5:29 AM
My ROV (PVC ROV ) weights aprox. 3-4kg, the heaviest part being the camera housing as it's made to resist the pressure at 50m depth. The totla cost so far is about 150-180$, but theres an infinite amount of gadgets and sensors that you can add to it, so maby in a few years it would be more like 500$ . The most difficult thing would be the wiring, and watersealing it. If i were to do it again i'd have everything planned before! i started...hope it helps you :D
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to daniel2008Feb 9, 2009. 10:45 PM
My ROV carries about 8 lbs of extra weight to render it neutral. It probably weighs 15 pounds total. I would agree that planning it first would be a better process, as I ended up with several malfunctions that needed work. If you can make a PCB, go for it, because it makes the wiring much more straight forward and less cluttered.
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to rebelscumJan 14, 2009. 2:00 PM
I didn't make this instructable b ut i do know that this rov cost about 300-350. The picks under this is the frame of my rov should cost about 150. My ROV is about 30 pounds because the top 4in by 2ft tube is all air!
conrad2468 says: Feb 9, 2009. 4:39 PM
I would use a control box instead of a controller i think it would work better....
uncle_tief says: Feb 5, 2009. 10:22 PM
hye geng... hye the owner of ROV underwater... im tief...student from malaysian... i want a make projek underwater rov..so..i need a lot of information bout this ROV...so..can u give sum explain what actually ROV underwater?? i must do my proposal bout this and submit to my lecturer before 12.2.2009..so..can u explained to me..and if can...can u give me the rov circuit draw?? plz....ur cooperation i appriciate...i need all the infomation bout this ROV...
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to uncle_tiefFeb 7, 2009. 1:09 PM
I don't know if i am the owner of ROV underwater

remotely operated vehcile
My rov is a little different than all of the rov's I have seen. My rov has ballast tanks which fill up and drain out. I can give you all of the schmatics that I have used. I didn't use that many just a compass and 2 cat 6 jack boards.

Most rov's are nature buoyant so when placed in the water it barely floats and then a motor turns which propels the rov down. I am going to have 3 separate wires which propel the motors which moves the rov F B L R.
There is also a tube that connects to the ballast tanks.
Finally a cat 6 wire will run to the rov which caries camera, compass and lights

on the surfaces I have 2 toggle switches that move the rov and a video jack and also a main power switch and a light switch.

If you need anything specified in more detail just Reply.
Go here http://pyrotechnic-robot.webs.com/rov.htm
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to uncle_tiefFeb 5, 2009. 11:26 PM
It sorta depends on your budget and how you plan to use the rov. You might want to begin with simple on-off relay controlled thrusters, use only 3 and build the design around that
Chipmunk813 says: Feb 7, 2009. 6:08 AM
About How Much Would This Cost?
ggiihh1 says: Jan 11, 2009. 5:27 PM
would an old playstation controller be hackable enugh to be used as the controller?
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to ggiihh1Jan 14, 2009. 2:11 PM
It might be possible to hack a controller. You could either solder wires to each potienmer and connect them to a arduino. You could also find some way to connect a controller to the computer and the then connect to a phidgets board to the ROV.
daniel2008 in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotJan 16, 2009. 5:19 AM
or just buy usb joystick for your computer.
Pyrotechnic-Robot says: Dec 29, 2008. 4:29 PM
I have just finished my frame for the sub. The 2 smaller pipes are ballast tanks. The big large one is the main compartment housing the electronics and camera.
2008-12-29-69743.jpg2008-12-29-69755.jpg2008-12-29-69802.jpg
daniel2008 in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotJan 9, 2009. 8:13 AM
nice frame, have you figured out where to put the motors...your arrangement will require 4 motors though, going to be abit more expensive. You could section off part of the front of the ballast tanks to mount a light and a mechanical arm...
pass-the-beans in reply to daniel2008Jan 9, 2009. 1:07 PM
why not just 2 motors, one on each side mounted on the side of the sub.
daniel2008 in reply to pass-the-beansJan 9, 2009. 10:21 PM
because 2 motors on the side would give you forward, reverse and left right movement, but you wouldnt get up or down...
pass-the-beans in reply to daniel2008Jan 10, 2009. 11:15 AM
yea, thats why we have ballast tanks on the side to go up and down by pressurizing and de pressurising with air or water.
daniel2008 in reply to pass-the-beansJan 10, 2009. 12:37 PM
aha, but thats alot more complicated u kno...+ when u depressurize the tanks the ROV will turn over because the airspace in the tanks will cause it to float over...and when you fill the ballast tanks again, the rov will turn over again...which is going to be quite annoying, what with the video feed and all...remember that even commercial ROV's don't even use a ballast system unless they are huge it's just too complicated carrying pressurized air and dealing with hydrolics.How do you plan on mounting a pressurised gas tank on the rov?
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to daniel2008Jan 10, 2009. 4:44 PM
That would be really annoying if your ROV starts turning over when you depressurize the tanks This shouldest happen to it because the top large tank is a 4 inch by 2 feet and will always have air in it. The other tubes will be filling up and draining. I am also am going to put 20 pounds on the bottom to first allow the ROV to sink and to fix the turning.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotJan 11, 2009. 10:06 AM
I have also seen ROVs use different tethers to adjust buoyancy. A heavy tether is used to help the ROV sink to the bottom if you need to look for something down there. A neutral tether would enable you to explore a reef or cruise around.
awang8 in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotDec 31, 2008. 8:24 PM
Looks great! be sure to post a Instructable when you're done.Just make you I get to post my Instructable first so then people can scream at you for being last. He he he.
awang8 says: Dec 30, 2008. 4:24 AM
Would it be possible to use an Arduino to make a autonomous ROV that randomly drives around the place picking up data and recording it on a computer using on-board sensors? ¡¡ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq oʇ ƃuıoƃ ɯɐ ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
daniel2008 in reply to awang8Jan 9, 2009. 8:20 AM
an autonomous ROV is cool, but i think it would need something more than an arduino if you want the ROV to be able to do anything worthwile, having a small onboard computer connected to a phidgets set of sensors could do alot.
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to daniel2008Jan 10, 2009. 4:46 PM
The arduino would still work because it can take any sensor and any motor but the phidgets would defiantly help.
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to awang8Dec 30, 2008. 8:51 AM
That is funny! I just go an arduino and it could be possible to do. You could use some touch sensors and ultrasonic sensors. The dirt in the water could mess it up. there will be allot of code! I would start out by making an autonomous car.
daniel2008 says: Dec 24, 2008. 12:59 AM
hey, awesome ROV, i just created a new group for ROV makers and enthusiasts...feel like joining?

go to: http://www.instructables.com/group/ROV/

or check out my ROV project,i would love to work together on improving our ROV's
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to daniel2008Dec 30, 2008. 4:16 PM
YES
aceLED says: Nov 23, 2008. 8:15 PM
ima making one of these right now ima pritty much just modifying a rc truck i got for like 15$ and to propel it iam using Co2 canisters dispoable ones its just a concept version but seeing that urs turned out pritty good do u have any advice
evanwehrer in reply to aceLEDDec 12, 2008. 6:31 AM
That probably wouldn't work.
awang8 in reply to evanwehrerDec 18, 2008. 3:36 AM
A RC truck probably isn't waterproof.
daniel2008 in reply to awang8Dec 24, 2008. 1:00 AM
plus, RC doasnt work underwater, thats a mistake that i made when i was making mine, its best to stick to cables
awang8 in reply to daniel2008Dec 27, 2008. 2:50 PM
It does work, only it doesn't work well. If you're going for shallow water try a 2.4ghz but if you're going deep stick to tether.
Pyrotechnic-Robot in reply to awang8Dec 30, 2008. 8:53 AM
2.4ghz should work. my first ROV used 2.4ghz.
aceLED in reply to awang8Dec 21, 2008. 5:34 PM
thats why I'm modifying it so it is
tobybirch007 says: Sep 26, 2008. 5:15 PM
A cheap source for lead (free usually) is any tire or car dealership. They probably have a few 5 gallon buckets full of tire weights just waiting for someone to pick them up. I worked at a dealership for awhile, and they didn't think for 2 seconds when I asked if I could have the bucket. Its fairly easy to melt and cast into a shape you can use. Just melt outside on a gas or charcoal grill and don't sit around breathing the fumes.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to tobybirch007Oct 5, 2008. 8:49 PM
Thanks. Ill keep that in mind if I upgrade to a more powerful ROV
awang8 in reply to SpaceShipOneDec 22, 2008. 8:07 PM
Hmm... Wonder if the local wrecker has them... They probably melted it and turned it into toxic toys for their kids!!! (Just kidding)
cheeseboy says: Nov 5, 2008. 12:37 AM
wow that is awesome, to bad i live to far inland for me to make one for any use =(
awang8 in reply to cheeseboyDec 22, 2008. 8:03 PM
Luckily, if you have a river or deep creek nearby you can test it or ever play with it in there!
evanwehrer says: Dec 12, 2008. 6:29 AM
Could I use this to control it, and a webcam instead of a camera like yours, and then make it all work with flash and joystick controllable with glovepie?
evanwehrer in reply to evanwehrerDec 12, 2008. 7:01 AM
Also, could you draw a schematic of how to make it reversible, I have this idea but I cant quite put it on paper, you would have it so there is two outs, one the reverse polarity of the other with diodes. You have to have the battery connected to the motor.
awang8 in reply to evanwehrerDec 18, 2008. 3:36 AM
I know this thing works as a reverse switch. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Connect 3 and 4 to the motor. Connect positive to pole 5 and ground to pole 6. Connect pole 1 to pole 6 and pole 2 to pole 5. If poles 1 and 3 are connected and poles 2 and 4 are connected the motor will go forward and vice versa. The crossover works because the left poles are all connected to the left motor output and the right poles are connected to the right motor output, you have put a left polarity into a right pole, and a right pole in a left pole, therefore reverseing the polarity.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to evanwehrerDec 12, 2008. 5:21 PM
The Phidgets board will work, that is what the person on Homebuilt ROVs used. He has an excellent diagram showing how to connect switches to make the motors reversibleon his website, (link is in instructable, look for How to section on site). Bear in mid that this will not give you progressive control, the motors will be either on or off in both directions. There is also a current limiting factor that goes along with the Phidgets board. however, this way makes it easier to incorporate sensors like a compass or leak detector.
evanwehrer says: Dec 12, 2008. 7:04 AM
chi chi chippy says: Oct 7, 2008. 5:12 PM
wat is rov mean
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to chi chi chippyOct 7, 2008. 6:08 PM
ROV stands for Remotely Operated Vehicle, and can be anything that is controlled from a distance.
evanwehrer in reply to SpaceShipOneDec 10, 2008. 6:01 AM
Does UROV stand from Underwater Remotely Operated Vehicle?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to evanwehrerDec 10, 2008. 6:08 PM
I'm not sure, but usually when people mention a ROV, they are talking about the kind that go underwater. Surface ROVs that are commonly used by the military or the police are usually just called robots, or have some acronym that forms the name.
evanwehrer in reply to SpaceShipOneDec 10, 2008. 7:45 PM
Thats what i thought
evanwehrer says: Dec 10, 2008. 6:21 AM
Oh and wonderful first instructable!
cooldog says: Sep 24, 2008. 4:45 AM
how much did it cost you?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to cooldogSep 24, 2008. 3:02 PM
Only about 300-350 dollars, I had most of the stuff at home. The only expensive parts were the speed controllers and the bilge pumps. My design was actually a more expensive version because of the speed controllers, for a cheaper build, you can use relays for on off control. The downside is that you lose progressive control of the thrusters.
evanwehrer in reply to SpaceShipOneDec 10, 2008. 5:38 AM
I'm gonna do the same thing as you but with a joystick and a USB motor controller and a web cam maybe (or not).
awang8 in reply to SpaceShipOneNov 16, 2008. 7:27 PM
Only? Thats a whole heap of money (well for me anyway).
daniel2008 in reply to awang8Dec 24, 2008. 1:02 AM
well there are ways of making it alot cheaper
recon506 in reply to SpaceShipOneOct 6, 2008. 6:58 PM
You do realize that a much cheaper way to control it is to simply make your own speed controller. The way your speed controllers work is by measuring the RF strength/other variable I don't know that your remote puts out to signify voltage/amperage change. Thus by taking your fairly cheap receiver and taking the output wires and sending them through a beast amplification circuit you have made a cheap speed controller, each worth only about 30 dollars.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to recon506Oct 6, 2008. 8:20 PM
Actually, the speed controllers I purchased from BaneBots cost only $30, plus they are short circuit, thermal cutoff and over current protected, which is good since I might be pushing them to the edge. The ESCs I have are 3 amp continuous, 9 amp max.
biolethal in reply to SpaceShipOneSep 30, 2008. 6:03 PM
ONLY 300$$$!!!!???? wow...
biolethal in reply to biolethalSep 30, 2008. 6:14 PM
meaning thats allot... i have about 12 $ right now... doesent look like ill be building this in the next 15 years. :(
awang8 in reply to biolethalDec 15, 2008. 6:42 PM
I'm delivering newpapers... It's gonna take me 4 months of (very) hard work to make one!
moolcool in reply to SpaceShipOneSep 24, 2008. 5:55 PM
what if you use a micro controller (arduino or something) and use a potentiometer, PWM and a Relay.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to moolcoolSep 24, 2008. 9:53 PM
Actually, that's what Jason Rollette used, he had a AVR Mega32 micro controller and a bank of H-bridges to control the motors. That is probably the most direct way, because he was able to control everything from his computer. I have the computer only for the video feed and possibly the compass, my RC controller does everything else
uncreative username says: Dec 6, 2008. 10:59 AM
looks cool. now ive got to try and put in practice
awang8 says: Dec 4, 2008. 1:40 AM
I'm thinking of making something like the seafox. I'm going to have 15m of Cat 5e with a camera, 50 watt halogen lamps and 3 Rule 500GPH converted pumps with 24mm props. 2 for forward/reverse/left/right and one for up/down. I'm not going to use a laptop. The monitor will be a portable DVD player with composite inputs and the comtrol will be a project box with 6 relays and 6 momentary switches. I'm currently working on it and I hope to post it on Instructables soon (or next next year).
madara009 says: Sep 24, 2008. 4:17 PM
have you tried using it as a jet pack! looks like it would fly you to the moon
awang8 in reply to madara009Dec 4, 2008. 1:37 AM
Not nearly as powerful.
Pyrotechnic-Robot says: Nov 14, 2008. 6:42 PM
I am working on one my own it is going to be 2 feet long. There is going two 2 foot long ballast tanks 2 inches wide. I am going to have a 1.5 foot long by 4 inches wide. There is also going to bee a teether. Thank's so much! All the links and your speaks have really helped me.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotNov 15, 2008. 12:06 PM
Sounds great! Make sure you post a picture so we can see how it turned out
Rob K says: Nov 2, 2008. 8:23 PM
I am thinking about doing something like this. I have one of those small spy camera like you have and a few 200lm LEDs in the mail. Instead of doing a ROV I am going to use a tether and a 2" tee, so I can drop the camera off the side of a dock.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to Rob KNov 2, 2008. 10:30 PM
Yes, that would work fine. Just make sure that your tether can support the weight of the camera, LEDs, and lead or other ballast you will need to add to make the pod sink.
timmy1234s says: Oct 31, 2008. 2:37 PM
this looks promising... Do you have to have some or more electronics experience? Hopefully not
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to timmy1234sOct 31, 2008. 6:09 PM
No, electronics experience is not a big issue on this. You should know what + and - are, and how to hook up wires, but other than that its mostly RC. I have no microcontrollers on this.
nicholast says: Oct 30, 2008. 11:42 PM
Sweet Project :D I've been wanting to build one for awhile now, but I've been too busy playing with gocarts and robotics hahaha :D
jernigan00 says: Oct 20, 2008. 12:58 AM
How do you interface between the RC transmitter and the receiver via the Cat 5? I might understand utilizing one of the wires within the Cat5 to carry the RF and maybe one hardwired for the camera but what is the purpose for the rest of the wires unless you want room to add gadgets later on? sorry for the questions but am low on the learning curve.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to jernigan00Oct 20, 2008. 10:08 PM
4 of the wires are used for outputs from the electronic compass. 2 are from the camera, a dedicated ground and the RCA output. 1 is for the receiver antenna, and the last one I might use for the positive compass output, or maybe for a second receiver so as to control a claw or arm of some sort. For now I just wrapped it around the cable
jernigan00 says: Oct 20, 2008. 12:03 AM
Question...The antenna from the reciever is attached to a wire in the Cat5. Is that same wire expesed on the other end so as to "receive" signal from the transmitter? If so how much is exposed? thx
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to jernigan00Oct 20, 2008. 10:03 PM
Yes, the same wire is left free at the other end for signal reception. I have yet to test the full depth, which might cause interference in the antenna, but for now I just have a few inches exposed from the cable jacket. I did not need to remove the individual wire covering.
jernigan00 says: Oct 19, 2008. 11:45 PM
What are the specs on the ESC? I'm acquiring all (or most) of the major components before I actually start mine. I am going with a dome type acrylic enclosure fitted onto ABS and home made a pan/tilt platform out of legos and 2 RC servos.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to jernigan00Oct 20, 2008. 10:01 PM
This is a reversible ESC, with 3 Amp continuous draw, 5 Amp 30 second draw, and a 9 Amp over-current cutoff. They came from Banebots.com, and there are other, higher current ESCs there as well
Pyrotechnic-Robot says: Oct 19, 2008. 3:21 PM
Where did you get your rubber removable caps and what size is your pvc?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotOct 19, 2008. 7:44 PM
I got the caps from Home Depot, but and good hardware store should carry them. They might also be called washout plugs
Plasanator says: Oct 19, 2008. 3:56 PM
Great control, I love it. You have done a Great Job.
Pyrotechnic-Robot says: Oct 4, 2008. 9:41 AM
First this is awesome! I have bean working on my owe sub the first was a plastic ware. NOW I AM TRYING to make a sub with blast tanks and an electronics container out of pvc. Where did you get the adapter that goes onto the prop? What is it's size?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to Pyrotechnic-RobotOct 5, 2008. 8:48 PM
The adapter is a standard prop adapter for RC airplanes. They can be purchased from any hobby store or online from sites like Tower Hobbies. Make sure you get one that has a thread equal or larger that the thread on your propeller. The shaft hole on the other side should match closely of be smaller so you can drill it out. I had to re-thread my adapters with a die so they would fit. If your prop has a hole in the center, you can used the supplied nut to secure it
SpaceShipOne (author) says: Sep 26, 2008. 11:52 PM
I posted a video of the ROV test in my friends pool. I'm not sure if it works, so let me know if it doesn't so I can add it a different way. A clip from the ROV camera will follow soon
peguiono in reply to SpaceShipOneSep 27, 2008. 4:48 PM
doesn't seem to be working for me.
btop says: Sep 27, 2008. 2:17 AM
Wow this is amazing. I wish i had some money...
bradleypowell says: Sep 25, 2008. 6:16 AM
Great project! I have to start working on one for next spring... Just as an FYI, plenum UTP (unshielded twisted pair) means that the sheathing of the cable will not release toxic gas when burned. It is used in the plenum (above the ceiling) in multistory office buildings so that people don't keel over during a fire. PVC UTP is much cheaper...
professorred in reply to bradleypowellSep 26, 2008. 7:54 PM
That's a relief. We wouldn't want uncontrolled multistory fires getting unhealthy.
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to bradleypowellSep 25, 2008. 5:02 PM
You are correct, thanks for the comment. PVC is cheaper, but I went with Plenum because Home Depot was out of PVC at the time.
Fort Mental says: Sep 26, 2008. 1:47 PM
This thing ROCKS! Hurry up and get it into real water! Can't wait to see what you film... One suggestion: Watch out for internal reflections from your lighting source: keep your camera within millimeters of the front lens so you don't end up filming reflections of the PCB. so....like I said, hurry up and post some video!
milo0is0hot0 says: Sep 26, 2008. 1:20 PM
well done this is great!!! i will definatley build one!!!
frikkie says: Sep 26, 2008. 5:06 AM
Man thats so cooool!!!!!
Imptheshrimp says: Sep 26, 2008. 4:01 AM
Thank you SO MUCH!! i've been waiting sooooo long for someone to put up an ROV instructable!
IX Smith XI says: Sep 25, 2008. 7:36 PM
It would be if you add a video to the instructable. thats hardcore
moolcool says: Sep 25, 2008. 5:00 PM
Awesome project How do you handle Buoyancy? If I use a micro controller do you think i could do something like this for under $100?
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to moolcoolSep 25, 2008. 5:09 PM
I had to add weight, about 8 pounds of lead. A static buoyancy system, where air or water is added to and onboard tank to make the ROV neutral is much better, but difficult to work out. If you have seen a professional ROV, you will see that they have a yellow box thing on top and sometimes on the sides. This is the static buoyancy system. For you second question, if you re good at making circuit boards and have experience in micro controllers, it would be considerably cheaper to make, around 100 to 150 depending on how complicated you make it and the cost of materials. You could also make this design much smaller to suit your needs, and it would cost less.
peguiono says: Sep 25, 2008. 4:29 PM
Thank you very much I was waiting for someone to post one of these so I could figure out a good housing nicely done :]
budsiskos says: Sep 23, 2008. 6:54 PM
you should try building one that uses kitemans manta drive system
KT Gadget in reply to budsiskosSep 23, 2008. 7:31 PM
yea. ive been trying also to design a functional one but the program i was using i dont have at home and i cant finish it. but yea it needs a little thinking on how it should have the manta effect but once built it should work almost as well as a motor with a prop, if not better.
budsiskos in reply to KT GadgetSep 24, 2008. 12:37 PM
what you could do is, instead of servos, use a geared motor attached to a crankshaft with the cranks at 45 degree intervals to drive the "wing" spars
KT Gadget in reply to budsiskosSep 24, 2008. 2:26 PM
yea thats what i was thinking but the only hard part is figuring out if you want speed or power. the motor has to be strong enough to spin the crank shaft to move whatever number of spars is used otherwise it wouldnt move. but yea 45 or smaller for more precise movements should work.
littlewit says: Sep 24, 2008. 1:23 PM
can u get a youtube video of it in action? this is sooo cool
Derin says: Sep 24, 2008. 9:13 AM
i would build one using a mini atx with most stuff in there,the only thing to pull to the top would be usb and a monitor cable
Sandisk1duo says: Sep 23, 2008. 9:20 PM
very cool! too bad i'm not rich :(
Dorkfish92 says: Sep 23, 2008. 7:38 PM
Great job! I've been wanting to make one of these ever since that Popular Science article with the ROV you mentioned in the beginning. I will make one....one day...
Sigsaucer647 says: Sep 23, 2008. 6:20 PM
nice work man, thats beastie
cool! says: Sep 23, 2008. 6:20 PM
Great job!!! I had been thinking about using RC parts, and you showed that it is possible! Great news, cuz relays are annoying and I dont want to fabricate my own circuit board. Awesome!
lordofthedonuts says: Sep 23, 2008. 6:17 PM
Wow, now that's an awesome project! you could add a servo to the camera, it would be easy to control since you're using a Hobby R/C system. And the Yellow job paint really adds to the ROV feel ; ) But omg, that's really cool!
LinuxH4x0r says: Sep 23, 2008. 5:55 PM
Very nice! I agree, lets get some videos!
SpaceShipOne (author) in reply to LinuxH4x0rSep 23, 2008. 6:16 PM
Yeah, this weekend I am planning on using my friends pool, so I'll post some videos from the surface and from the on-board camera.
S1L3N7 SWAT says: Sep 23, 2008. 6:00 PM
Very cool! I also wanted to try and make one, now I have a better idea of what the project entails.
marc92 says: Sep 23, 2008. 5:40 PM
Excellent ROV. Perhaps you could add some video from the depths of the water.
Thornburg says: Sep 23, 2008. 5:38 PM
Nicely done and well documents. Favorited
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