This stabilizer can be used succesfully with moderately long exposures and moderately long focal lengths.
Needed: 2 discarded harddisks (HDs)
Some old discarded computer, or parts
The part in the old computer which holds floppies en HDs at a 90 degree angle...
A woden box or plywood etc..
A hand grip
One or two strips of aluminum
A camera screw
3 or 4 car USB phone chargers
A 12 V power source (lead acid cell, a discarded NiCd cell, or (rechargeable) batteries)
Some rubber washers and a piece of inner tire
Contact glue
Your camera
Costs: something between E 0.00 and E 50.00 (my costs: E 15.-)
Time to build:a few days, including some shopping...
Tools: Simple hand tools, drill, soldering gear.
Update: look at my single Gyro stabilizer: www.instructables.com/id/Single-HD-Gyro-Image-stabilizer/
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Signing UpStep 1: How it works
Most hard disks spin at 5400, 7200 or 10.000 RPM. The rotating parts have a considerable mass, and are very well centered and balanced. Old HDs with storage space below ca. 10 Gb can be obtained very cheaply, or even for free.
The spinning HDs working as gyroscopes in the horizontal and vertical plane (X and Y) can almost completely prevent motion blur.
When a long exposure, or tele picture is taken by hand, motion blur occurs in a combination of horizontal and vertical (X and Y axis) shaking; not so much in the back and forth (Z axis) direction.
The spinning mass in the HDs steadies the camera.











































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You could of used a 1Amp 5v regulator save money and keep the size down.
Also how much heat build up comes from the spinning disks? For still photography this might not be an issue but for video it potentially could.
Really great instructable, Thanks!
Anyway, why I commented was I like the idea but this is huge, I looked at the single but 2 obviously works better. I have an idea for a frameless folding design. Anybody curious? I'll look into it tomorrow. (I have like 11 old hard drives)
To the creator: If you don't want me to post this here please let me know.
Top to Bottom and Left to Right Axis is all that is needed.
ASA 400 film and a 55mm 1.4 Lens would do better. On cloudy days the shutter open time is longer than on bright days.
Your comment set me thinking. First I thought it would not work. Anyway, I have built a one gyro HD stabilizer now:www.instructables.com/id/Single-HD-Gyro-Image-stabilizer/ . It leaves rotation along the optical axis uncorrected, but with some skill and practice, this can be overcome.
That's the other trick- you should try to hold the camera at the centre of mass; there's a youtube video of Bill Beaty doing that with a webcam on a tripod hanging down; he just holds it loosely between his fingers and the tripod damps it all out pretty well as he runs around.
The only drawbacks I see are power consumption and weight, but this is an inspiration! I've been looking for a stabilization device for my mountianbike. I'll check into finding and stripping down some smaller drives and seeing if they'll run on smaller batteries & still be effective.
"To stabilize a bike would require a huge powerful motor, but I would not test ride it in heavy traffic. It would react very different from normal!"
You mean a funeral precession? Boom! Boom!