Here is something you can do with left over junk. Everything I used here except the paint and light bulb was from items I found thrown out on the side of the road in my neighborhood. I ended up with a heavy duty stand made from a drill press, disk brake piece, electric motor parts, and some recycled lamp stand tubes. The lamp itself was made of a Jelly Belly candy dispenser, an old speaker from a free stereo console I dismantled, and some mylar sheets from junked computer flat screens.
This is what you'll need:
recycled lamp parts, including two hollow columns, bendable arm, some flat nuts, and washers.
Mig welder (with gloves and welding mask of course)
drill press column
disk brake piece
drill and bits
sheet metal screws
four nuts and bolts
super glue, epoxy, and all purpose E6000 industrial glue
stained glass paint ( on clearance at Michael's craft store)
two pieces of black flexible plastic (harvested from old track lighting I think)
a few clamps for glue ups
old light socket with switch
recycled appliance cord and plug
small piece of half inch finish plywood, and two short wood screws
recycled copper wire
electric motor parts
"Jelly Belly" candy dispenser body
old speaker and mylar sheets from computer flat screens.
Step 1: Put Column on Base and Mark for Drill Holes
Simply put the column on the disk brake base piece, center it and mark where to drill holes to bolt them together. I used an automatic punch to give me a dimple for the drill bit to center on.
Step 2: Drill Holes for Bolts
This steel drilled pretty easy. I used a 3/8" drill bit and only did three holes since one of the existing ones already lined up.
Step 3: Grind Off Rust.
This takes time, but makes a nice shiny industrial finish. I used a grinding pad and meticulously took off the rust until I was left with a shiny surface that I later sanded cleaner and sprayed with clear coat.
Step 4: Bolt Base Together
Four nuts and bolts about 3 inches long did the trick and made a rather heavy duty base stand.
Step 5: Grind Down Electric Motor Part
I used this stack of steel laminate discs for a transitional piece between the base and top metal tubes and had to grind down the aluminum so I could weld it on.
Step 6: Weld Electric Motor Part Onto Base
I used an entry level Lincoln 90 amp mig welder on it's highest setting to attach the electric motor part, grinding off any bumpiness in the admittedly crude but effective welds.
Step 7: Prepare Secondary Column
I found these lamp parts that fit together for the second level, to be installed into the center of the motor laminations. The top piece is a stainless steel flexible arm from a desk lamp. This fit nicely inside another thicker stainless steel lamp tube that made it look thicker.
Step 8: Prepare and Wire Up Lamp Head
Drill a hole into the center base piece and install a light bulb socket holder into the inside of the candy dispenser, and grind off the paint if desired.
Step 9: Cut Out Center of Speaker Cone Frame
This was an old "Golden Voice" speaker cone frame salvaged from a junked stereo console. Cut out the center so it fits around the candy dispenser for screwing on.
Step 10: Attach Cone
Using small self tapping sheet metal screws, attach the speaker cone assembly onto the candy machine body.
Step 11: Cut Out and Glue in Mylar "windows"
Cut out pieces that fit into the empty angled spaces in the cone frame, using recycled sheets harvested from LCD flat screens ( I think it's some kind of mylar). Tape off outside of cone with blue tape before gluing, for cleaner results, since the super glue tends to run onto the mylar surface.
Step 12: Paint Shade Windows
Start coating glued in windows with stained glass paint. You will need to apply several coats to create a fake "art glass look". I actually used mostly transparent orange acquired on clearance from Michael's crafts store.
Step 13: Install Plastic "visor" Strips
Simply glue in strips of black flexible plastic into the cone frame edges, using super glue. This is a bit tricky at first and I just held the piece in by hand until it set, to tack it in, and later managed to roughly clamp it , while wicking CA glue into the cracks. I wish I had had some accelerator though.
Step 14: Cut Plywood Pieces for the Back and Switch
Quarter inch plywood for the circular switch plate and half inch recycled drawer slides for the cord hole plate, which fit into a slot of sorts on the candy dispenser. Glue both in with super glue and clamp the square one together, after boring holes for the simple lamp switch and cord pass through. Also paint the frames and continue coating windows as desired. Leave the round piece off until after wires are passed through hole in back. Round piece needs to be cut so square one can slide in, as pictured.
Step 15: Paint Interior Frame and Test Light.
Paint the inside and wire up the light to make sure it works.
Step 16: Grind Off Aluminum Fins and Weld on Upper Column
Remove any aluminum on the electric motor part and weld the upper outer column onto the center. The thinner upper pipe fits inside of this fixed one, enabling swiveling action for the upper arm. Grind welds down as best you can.
Step 17: Glue in Decorative Transition Pieces.
Glue in decorative pieces made from painted electric motor laminations and a salvaged bar bell sleeve collar (I think?). Later fold down the laminate edges to make a flush fit. This hides the crude looking weld, and any burn marks on the column bottom edge. I coated this with transparent paint and clear coat.
Step 18: Thread Power Cord Through Column
Tape end of power cord onto an old fishing pole section or similar device to feed cord end through center of column and out the top end, after first threading it through convenient gap in brake discs. This might be done before the last step actually, since it is easier to weld the upper column on with the wire already inside. Sorry about that.
Step 19: Wire Up Lamp Top
Pull power cord out the top, through bending arm, and connect to lamp top wires, using shrink tube (and/or electrical tape).
Step 20: Attach Lamp to Base Top.
Lay the base down and pull the cord through bottom to tighten and screw in arm to lamp.
Step 21: Stiffen Bendable Arm
Since the bending arm on this lamp is not stiff enough to hold up the lamp very well, wrap copper wire around coat hanger wire that's taped onto the arm. This also adds decorative color.
Step 22: Plug in Lamp and Enjoy.
Put any lightbulb in and turn it on. I used an Edison bulb, which gave it a warm glow with the orange paint. Clear coat on the steel with hopefully prevent too much rust.